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A Chance For Everyone To Make Fun of Me


tumble59

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For all you obviously more capable bike owners than me out there, this is going to be a really stupid series of questions, but at 46 yo and 12 bikes into it all, I have never taken bodywork off any bike - unless you count the time I took a full tank off a GS750 without closing the petcock and pissed off my mother-in-law for killing a large part of her yard, running to a washtub...

Anyway, I bought the CCT from John, and, as funny as it may sound, I want to install it myself to save the mortgage for a dealer service visit, along with the shit I'll take over the reason I didn't just buy the part from them, so I am going to need a little advice about getting the right side skin off - and - on again, straight. Are there any fasteners I can't see just looking at the bike, and are there any plastic clips for which I should buy some spares, before I begin? Is there a rule of thumb on tightening the threaded fasteners to keep from cracking the plastic? Is there a better order for off and on to avoid a crooked panel? Is there anything else I am too ignorant to even realize I need to ask...?

Also, if I manage not to completely screw up the bodywork, I intend to change out my mysterious catalyzed left canister - what is the best order for removal of the can - peg first or header first, and of course the re-install? Other than anti-sieze. is there anything else I need to get? Finally, what are the torque numbers for the clamp and the peg hanger?

Thanks. Keep in mind that if you get a kick out of these stupid questions, I'll be encouraged to ask more...

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http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=32974

Check the useful threads section... :icon_wink:

Thanks Rider - I am pretty 'tuned in' on the CCT swap out, and that post is what put me there - its the getting to it and back part that I am concerned about - I couldn't find any similar information about bodywork removal, but I will look again.

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Taking the panels off is pretty simple... getting them back on(especially the first time requires some patience)...

There are two pop tabs on the bottom of the fairing.... I think 3 inside the wheel well area then all the obvious screws on the outer part of the fairing..... comes off relatively easily but getting it back on requires eyeballing the panel into place while aligning the screws....it should come apart very easily so if it doesn't don't pull on it, look for a screw some place that you missed.

Check out the service manual listed in the FAQ for explicit instructions for taking off the panels or look in your owner's manual.

Service Manual here

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Not that you should't learn how to take the bodywork off, but FWIW the CCT change doesn't

really require the removal of the panel. You can take out the lower two or three mounting

screws, prop the body panel out a bit with something, and you can reach the CCT no problem.

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Not that you should't learn how to take the bodywork off, but FWIW the CCT change doesn't

really require the removal of the panel. You can take out the lower two or three mounting

screws, prop the body panel out a bit with something, and you can reach the CCT no problem.

That's what I was refering to... no need for it to come off I think I only took two or three bolts out..

You can take them off but why....

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I would suggest ( and not to say so in any sort of am insulting manner ) to grab a friend who has a little bit more mechanical experience than you. Delving into this sort of thing can be very strenous to those either without mechanical ability or experience. Not that I'm not impressed with the fact that you are willing to dive right in with decent instructions, I am. I have a bit of mechanical aptitude, but still even with that, I'm sometimes hesitant diving into something unfamiliar.

Replacing the CCT isn't really difficult at all, but having some prior mechanical experience really helps. For instance, preping the gasket surfaces. Experience tells me to gently clean the surfaces with a new razor blade if the old gasket doesn't come off cleanly. This is where experience comes into play. Not to sell you short or make you feel stupid, but these life lessons really help at times.

It's the same thing where as some people follow directions better than others because of a better comprehension of the task at hand. We want you to be happy with what you are doing, but it all starts with small steps in the mechanical field. Better off safe than sorry.

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Like his post says, Beondwacko means well. So don't take it the wrong way. I, along with others, have seen him genorously (sp?) jump in to help two total strangers with bike problems during a group ride. One was a Gixxer that went from track bike to the yellow submarine and back to high and dry in about a 6 hour period. And later, help a lightly downed 'Bird get running again and keep it from pissing all its gas down it's side, instead of into the carbs. Good man.

As mentioned earlier, taken the lowers off is easy. It's the reassembly that takes the patience. Sometimes those tabs can change a man's religion.

Best wishes to 'ya.

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Thanks for the complimets Ham'.

Actually , doing the CCT is really easy. You'll same the same thing to yourself after you've done it yourself. I would put out a feeler to other memebers who are local to you as suggested. We're a social group of misfits in here. Someone will lend a hand who's local for sure without question. Where ya' from?

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Thanks for the complimets Ham'.

Actually , doing the CCT is really easy.

Everyone all together now.... "HOW EASY IS IT?"

Sooooooooo easy, that Bowen did it at RedNexxt this weekend... and only needed help for 80% of it!

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Well Tumble where ya located? Ya may have some birds in your neck o the woods, may be able to enlist some help right there :icon_wink:

Kinley

Thanks to all - don't worry, you can't hurt my feelings, I've got a pretty good sense of humor about myself, and I'm Thomas Edison compared to my old man... I know enough to know my limitations - that is why I asked specifically about the panels. While I will accept the compliment on my willingness to dive into something unfamiliar, the world can sleep safe, knowing that I won't be doing any brake work, suspension tweaking or tire changing - but I feel certain that I can tackle the CCT with the picture post - it is pretty straightforward, and I needed a torque wrench, anyway. I found the needed torque values, and the can swap recipe in the manual that "joelmikel" linked me with - thanks, more helpful information. I now pretty much accept that the body panel thing is a show and tell for me and someone who can do it. I have a tech buddy who used to do all the work on my now long gone BMW's, so I will probably let him help with the body panel/CCT - and the can swap, it just gets down to coordinating with his schedule.

Anyway, I live in Nashville - a long way from most of you guys, but if there is somebody around, it would be nice to know. As for getting out into it, due to my numerous, recent conferences with the Rangers on the Trace, I'm driving Miss Daisy these days, until the bounty comes down a bit, so I don't know how well I would keep up with any real enthusiasts out there, but I guess I'd catch up eventually...

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Thanks for the complimets Ham'.

Actually , doing the CCT is really easy.

Everyone all together now.... "HOW EASY IS IT?"

Sooooooooo easy, that Bowen did it at RedNexxt this weekend... and only needed help for 80% of it!

:icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao:

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Seems the other guys have answered all your questions except tightness of screw type bodywork fastners. I always use a drop or two of medium grade thread locker & just snug them(never lost one yet). I have used Loctite---but as of now am using a Kawasaki tread locker-----available at all Kawasaki dealers & it works 'just right' for the smaller bolts on motorcycles. Happy trails kel

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Well, hell, Knoxville isn't that far away.....Come on over & I can help some Sunday. I have had my panels off 3 or 4 times now, and it is a cinch now that I have found a hex driver that fits on the end of my screwdriver/drill.

I know the part of the trace you are talking about. Man, you are Crazy getting on it on a BB....imPOSSIBLE to do 50!

Good luck on the CCT!

Philip

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Take a look at the Member Map (top right of your XX forum screen)

You'll find that there's members in Nashville.

Pulling the panels is EASY. Getting the back on isn't tough, either. All you need to do the CCT is pull the right side lower panel.

To pull the panel, you need is an allen wrench and about 5 minutes.

1) Remove the 3 screws that connect the upper to the lower

2) Remove the 3 larger screws that connect the lower to the frame

3) Remove the 1 smaller screw that connects the back of the lower to the frame. If you miss this one, don't sweat it, you'll find it eventually.

4) Remove the 1 smaller screw that connects the upper to the front V

5) Remove the 4? plastic fairing clips on that V two along the side of the V, and 2 underneath where the 2 lowers fit together

At this point you should be able to remove the lower. I have found that pulling out and down helps.

The CCT will require a #8 socket or wrench.

1) Remove the center bolt first. It's a small bolt, but if you wait until you remove the CCT, it's a bitch to get it out.

2) Remove the other 2 bolts and the CCT will pull free.

3) Scrape off any gasket.

4) Install the replacement CCT with the gasket, putting in the 2 bolts. Some CCTs come with new bolts. Using the new ones is optional

5) Pull the center tab out of the new CCT.

6) Replace the center bolt with the one you took out of the CCT. It's not overly necessary, but keeps it clean.

To replace the lower plastic... I usually put it in place by attempting to slide it how it came out. I have found some basic tricks which seem to help:

1) I start with the small screws that connect the upper to the lower. Once you get them STARTED, don't tighten them down all the way.

2) Get the push pins in next, for the plastic V in the front, and underneath

3) For the rest of the screws, just don't tighten them down until you get the whole panel in place and all screws started. That gives you the ability to move the panel around until they start. Just don't forget to go back and tighten them all down.

4) It's sometimes helpfull to pull the plastic out over the screw, and use the end of the allen wrench as a lever to get the screw to start.

Once you've done this once.. it's a piece of cake. REALLY

On another note: I wouldn't use any kind of loctite on the screws. Loctite vapors are known for causing plastic to crack. :icon_wall:

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