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Mileage


Elefant

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You know how boxer beemers have this "reputation" of not being broken in until 30k miles and lasting for another 100k. Be it as it may (I'm not getting into the truth of that statement) I was wondering what the case may be with XXs. Any real high miles out there? Trouble free? I suppose it's sort of a newbee question since I'm looking for one... Are certain years better than others? I'm pretty much set oon F.I....

I'm sort of wondering if there is a number of miles after which I better "not go in there"....

I do realize that following maintenance and giving it TLC is a big part of a long happy life...

Cheers and nice board you all have here.

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I know we have some 70K+ folks and I'm sure I heard (read) one person say they had nearly 100K. With proper maintenance and care, I'm sure the Bird can go over 100K. One guy actually SOLD his to someone at nearly 80K and that person he sold it to joined our board and has put another 20 to 25K on it since then.

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There's at least one I'm aware of that's well over 100k with no signifigant problems, and more than I can count that are at 50k+ and still running strong.

Hell, Warchild just cheked is valves at 75k and they were still all in spec.

This motor is way overbuilt and good for 100k no problem if properly maintained.

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approachin 75k now and only had the normal problems...regulator/rectifier, tires, chain, brakes...oh and the stator...thats it, nothing else...I ride my bike every day to work about 175 miles round trip roughly depending on which location I actually have to go to...If I ever sell the XX it will be to get another XX

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approachin 75k now and only had the normal problems...regulator/rectifier, tires, chain, brakes...oh and the stator...thats it, nothing else...I ride my bike every day to work about 175 miles round trip roughly depending on which location I actually have to go to...If I ever sell the XX it will be to get another XX

Please! Not again! regulator/rectifier? Even stator? Is that YOU or everyones? I thought (hoped) going from Ducati to Honda (easy now girls! I'm keeping the Ducs!) would take me away from those issues...........What's the average milage/lifespan of the charging system?

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approachin 75k now and only had the normal problems...regulator/rectifier, tires, chain, brakes...oh and the stator...thats it, nothing else...I ride my bike every day to work about 175 miles round trip roughly depending on which location I actually have to go to...If I ever sell the XX it will be to get another XX

Please! Not again! regulator/rectifier? Even stator? Is that YOU or everyones? I thought (hoped) going from Ducati to Honda (easy now girls! I'm keeping the Ducs!) would take me away from those issues...........What's the average milage/lifespan of the charging system?

well the XX has a bad rep for frying R/R, mine died at about 34k and the stator died at 68k if I recall correctly

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approachin 75k now and only had the normal problems...regulator/rectifier, tires, chain, brakes...oh and the stator...thats it, nothing else...I ride my bike every day to work about 175 miles round trip roughly depending on which location I actually have to go to...If I ever sell the XX it will be to get another XX

Please! Not again! regulator/rectifier? Even stator? Is that YOU or everyones? I thought (hoped) going from Ducati to Honda (easy now girls! I'm keeping the Ducs!) would take me away from those issues...........What's the average milage/lifespan of the charging system?

I'm not the expert on this, but it seems to be hit-or-miss... Seems to depend on whether you take short or long trips (short, in-town trips being harder on it than long, highway trips), the extra farkles you run (heated gear, aux lights, etc), and climate to some degree (overheating kills electrical stuff)... I've only seen or heard of 3-4 people going through stators, and they were all above 50k miles I believe, but something as simple as a failed battery will kill a Rectifier (rectifier (and stator for that matter) put out maximum current trying to charge the battery, but if it's got a dead cell, it never charges up, so that wears out R/R and stator real quick I'd guess)...

Mike

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The stuff you learn here...ok so is there any way to stay ahead of the curve on the battery and possibly save or add lifespan to the reg/rec? Would a voltmeter be sufficient, or by the time the voltmeter starts showing problems it's already too late?

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I had an 02 with 57k miles on it, never had a lick of trouble. Only problem I had was the seat latch broke. I did have to replace the battery, and it went through brakes, tires, and oil. Damn Hondas. Cost me a fortune in maintenance :icon_razz:

Can somone explain to me how a solid state electronic device like a stator and a regulator rectifier can "Wear Out"??? Heat cycles, OK.... I got that. But the magnet is going to spin around the stator anyways, and due to that electric current is produced. There's NO moving parts to a stator, and it should be already somewhat warm thanks to the fact that it's attached to the engine anyways, I'd say it's going to get plenty hot due to that.

The Regulator/Rectifier is another one... It's going to receive more current/voltage at higher RPMs, and bleed off everything above 14 volts to the system ground. When the battery needs more current, or the system demands more current due to farkles, it's really a matter of parsing out that current. I can see cooking one if the temperatures warrant it (solder melts, for example) but simply because it was charging the battery more, how does that "wear it out"??

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well my stator shorted to ground on two legs...the insulation covering the windings somehow gave way

as far as the rectifier goes, heat cycles cause the silicone particles to break down at which point the device is affected...sometimes to the point of not working but other times it just takes time for the device to fail...I am pulling that from my early electronics theory classes so If anyone wants to try to add to my description please do so, but thats the gist of it

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I had an 02 with 57k miles on it, never had a lick of trouble. Only problem I had was the seat latch broke. I did have to replace the battery, and it went through brakes, tires, and oil. Damn Hondas. Cost me a fortune in maintenance :icon_razz:

Can somone explain to me how a solid state electronic device like a stator and a regulator rectifier can "Wear Out"??? Heat cycles, OK.... I got that. But the magnet is going to spin around the stator anyways, and due to that electric current is produced. There's NO moving parts to a stator, and it should be already somewhat warm thanks to the fact that it's attached to the engine anyways, I'd say it's going to get plenty hot due to that.

The Regulator/Rectifier is another one... It's going to receive more current/voltage at higher RPMs, and bleed off everything above 14 volts to the system ground. When the battery needs more current, or the system demands more current due to farkles, it's really a matter of parsing out that current. I can see cooking one if the temperatures warrant it (solder melts, for example) but simply because it was charging the battery more, how does that "wear it out"??

Basically, with silicon parts (chips, IC's, and diodes), every 5 (or was it 10?) degrees you cool them down, their live doubles, and the opposite happens as they get hotter... If the R/R is good for 200,000 miles at 100 degrees, it's only good for 100k miles at 105 degrees, and 50k miles at 110 degrees, and 25k at 115 degrees, and so on... So, if you run your R/R hot all the time (lots of current), you're decreasing the life of the silicon parts in the R/R.

As for the stator, yes, it's the regular 220 degrees of the engine, but it adds its own heat to that by way of electric current, and because all wires have some resistance, that resistance turns into heat... Typically, a stator (or any generator) only fails when it's gotten hot enough to melt the clear-ish (thin) coating off the wires, so they short out...

Mike

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The stuff you learn here...ok so is there any way to stay ahead of the curve on the battery and possibly save or add lifespan to the reg/rec? Would a voltmeter be sufficient, or by the time the voltmeter starts showing problems it's already too late?

Kindda! If you install a voltmeter on your dash and that'll allow you to monitor charging. Or dischrarging while using a lot of heat clothes/farkles. If you see the system can't keep up you can decide what to turn off before you blow it...

Depending on the system, the stator will start charging at a certain rpm range. I suppose if you keep a close eye on it and get used to its ways you could determine if anything is going awol prior to running out of juice....

Adding to lifespan of R/R? Keep it grounded good, cooled and hooked to a battery in good shape. No guarantees though... It can happen at any time.

BTW,

1/ what's the XX charging system output?

2/ Any reason for buying a '99 vs. '02? And I'm not refering to electrical issues.

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Guest rockmeupto125

Anson, a voltmeter might give you some piece of mind. You can add a standalone, or use the one that's built into the 8500x2 or RX65 detectors. It probably won't read exact voltage, but will allow you to trend, which is all most "system condition" (temp, pressure, voltage) gauges really do anyway.

There's no particular reason for the stator to fail unless it operates hot....which it will if your regulator fails and starts letting 14.5-16 volts or more out into the system on a constant basis. That's why stator failures often accompany regulator failures. I have no research data, but it seems that guys in the south and west complain more of stator failures than us chilly northern folk....which may be attributable to the higher operating temperatures they may run in. Or perhaps I'm just dreaming. Those who operate in high heat environments, including a lot of city traffic, may certainly place extra strain on the electricals....and I wonder about luggage (mostly soft bags) that restrict air flow from under the rear cowl. Engine heat pours back into that area as well. Its surprising the batteries last as well as they do.

Care and Maintainance....Farkles need to be attached and grounded well to put less stress on the system. You can use dielectric grease on the regulator connection (and others) to decrease the likelihood of corrosion that increases the load on the system. Check and clean your battery ground and your battery on a regular basis and replace it when its performance nears marginal as this puts more load on your system. And lastly, inspect the regulator connector every few months of operation...symptoms of increasing heat in this area such as corrosion on the connection blades, stiff or discolored insulation on the wires, or browning of the connector are danger signs. Download the manual to find out how to check and troubleshoot this stuff.

Elefant....every machine has component failure rates...its part of the equation. The XX and Hondas in general seem to have an appetite for regulators. Honda has upgraded this part twice on the XX...once due to a electrical system upgrade, and the second I can only assume, was to upgrade a component that was showing an increasing failure rate. I believe the stator failures, while significantly less frequent, are largely attributable to regulator failures. This all stands out because there are so few problems with the bike, and the regulator issue is the most common one that's going to put the machine out of service. Hope this helps.

Your other question number one, is 460 watts. That question and more are answered in the following thread. There's a lot of information here.....dig around.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31635

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