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Brake pad change


Alpha Crow

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I'll do both sets of front at the same time, but I'm certainly not tied in to doing both front and rear at the same time. When one set is bad, I definately check the other sets to make sure they are all OK, but that's just to make sure I order all I need at one time. It's quick and easy, so I don't have the "while I'm at it, I might as well..." mindset.

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I only replace whats needed. If I recall the consensus here is that the rears wear out faster than the fronts unless you're de-linked.

+1

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Guest rockmeupto125

No, you don't need to change the fronts with the rears, as has been said.

However, if your rears are worn out, you DO need to make sure you check the LEFT front pads, which typically wear sooner than the right side.

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However, if your rears are worn out, you DO need to make sure you check the LEFT front pads, which typically wear sooner than the right side.

Absolutely correct.

Specifically, the outboard pad, which is the lower of these two pads:

bad_left_pad.jpg

As you can see below, I caught this one just prior to having it start scoring up the rotor:

bad_left_pistonside.jpg

The movement/action of the secondary master cylinder above the left caliper is the cause of this unusual "sloping" wear pattern. These are my original front left brake pads at 27,000 miles..... <_<

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However, if your rears are worn out, you DO need to make sure you check the LEFT front pads, which typically wear sooner than the right side.

Absolutely correct.

Specifically, the outboard pad, whic is the lower of these two pads:

bad_left_pad.jpg

As you can see below, I coaught this one just prior to having it start scoring up the rotor:

bad_left_pistonside.jpg

The movement/action of the secondary master cylinder above the left caliper is the cause of this unusual "sloping" wear pattern. These are my original front left brake pads at 27,000 miles..... <_<

Wow. Thanks a lot for the information. I figured as much about the rears, but I always try to ask and not find out the hard way (read: $$$).

I just glanced at the fronts through the caliper edge, did not pull them, I guess I definitely need to. Pain in the arse to get the pistons backed off on the rear caliper for the new pad to fit. Ol' Haynes manual says "push on caliper"... my ass, that didn't work :) Had to manually back them off at the same time (any secret advice is welcome)

I'll go pull the fronts tomorrow. It's cold and rainy here anyway, no riding for a while. Thanks again all.

BTW, how much do you guys pay for pads? I got some Honda stock for $51 for rear pads.

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However, if your rears are worn out, you DO need to make sure you check the LEFT front pads, which typically wear sooner than the right side.

Absolutely correct.

Specifically, the outboard pad, whic is the lower of these two pads:

bad_left_pad.jpg

As you can see below, I coaught this one just prior to having it start scoring up the rotor:

bad_left_pistonside.jpg

The movement/action of the secondary master cylinder above the left caliper is the cause of this unusual "sloping" wear pattern. These are my original front left brake pads at 27,000 miles..... <_<

Wow. Thanks a lot for the information. I figured as much about the rears, but I always try to ask and not find out the hard way (read: $$$).

I just glanced at the fronts through the caliper edge, did not pull them, I guess I definitely need to. Pain in the arse to get the pistons backed off on the rear caliper for the new pad to fit. Ol' Haynes manual says "push on caliper"... my ass, that didn't work :) Had to manually back them off at the same time (any secret advice is welcome)

I'll go pull the fronts tomorrow. It's cold and rainy here anyway, no riding for a while. Thanks again all.

BTW, how much do you guys pay for pads? I got some Honda stock for $51 for rear pads.

I used the EBC pads last chage. About 30 bucks at the stealer.

+1 on pulling the fronts, mine looked good through the inpection hole, but when I pulled them the front left was just starting to dig the rotor :huh:

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