OrganDonor Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Another winter project... My 97 XX is currently stock in the rear end suspension. I was thinking of picking up a used 900RR rear shock. 1. What years will fit the bird? 2. I'm 300lb fully geared up, plus the missus, and/or luggage. Is my best bet to send the 900RR shock out and have it serviced and and heavier spring put in? I found a Race Tech Gold Valve kit for short money... but I'm reluctant to delve into the innards of the shock. Better not to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHaul Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 I did the 900RR shock swap. I'm reasonably happy with it. It's better than the stock BB shock and it's adjustable. But I did have some trouble finding a higher rate spring. At 300 lbs you will need one. I weigh about 160 lbs with gear and the 900RR's (15kg, IIRC) spring was too soft for even me. When I did my shock, Race Tech no longer carried the stiffer 16 kg spring that was being used by other forum members. They offered a special order 16.1kg/900lb Eibach spring. Once I got it in hand, I saw it was shorter than the stock spring. Race Tech agreed to take the spring back but they said it should still work. It did work, once I put about 5/8th of an inch of shims between the spring and the top perch. I do like the shock, but the cost of the used shock, plus the spring, plus the rebuild, plus the pain in the ass, I recommend going after market. Ohlins, Wilburs, Penske. If you do go for the 900RR shock, investigate the spring options before you commit. I'm thinking you're gonna need a much higher spring rate than 900 lbs. I've heard of 1000lbs and maybe even 1100lbs. Check with Race Tech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 IIRC....'93 through '95 was the years that work with the XX. The later models of the 900RR was a different lenght center to center on the mounting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickc2s Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Traxxion Dynamics has springs for the 900RR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 I am about 260-270 without gear. I am using an 1100 lb spring on the f4 shock im using, on the least preload adjustment. I haven't been inside a 900rr shonk but i assume its the same deal as the f4 . Drill a small hole in the end of the res to release the preasure. (go just through the metal or you will nick the bladder). Push in the res in take out the inner circlip , put a screw in the hole you just drilled to pull out the cap. Now for the shock itself ( from memory) 1) remove the spring 2) hold the jam nut , screw off the bottom link thing 3) hold the shaft with aholder ( 1/2 inch piece of alum with a 14 mm hole through it cut i 2 piece through the hole) , remove the jam nut. 4) pry off the dust cover on the end of the shock 5) push in the seal head 6) remove the inner circlip 7) pull out shaft seal heat and valving If anybody wants to actually try this themselves let me know and 'ill try and write beter instructions , but i just wanted to give an idea of what is involved. the only way yo learn if to GOFORIT Im going to be taking my shock apart again the next few weeks to take out some compression damping so if anyone need pics of a given step i'll try and get them. Thanks Herb Ps it a lot easier to find newer f4i shocks then 900r, THe f4i shock requires a 1/2 shim amove the mount (travel is the same). There is a lot more thread on a f4i mount so grab one if you try this conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadOx Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Testing my pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v00d00child Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 I have a 95 CBR900RR shock and an 1100 lb Hypercoil spring (not mounted, unit still has stocker spring), but it's back home in CO, and I'm currently in WA. The reservoir has been discharged-can either find a svc place that has a chamber, or buy an end cap with a schrader valve. I wound up going with a Penske. I'll be back in CO in a couple of weeks, if anyone's interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 It easy to make the end cap. I used a brass fitting from the hardware store. I tapped the hole in the end cap , 1/8 pipe thread i think. Screwed the fitting in,solder it for good measure, diegrinder or dremel to make the fitting flush on the inside. Screwed the valve with teflon tape into the brass fitting. I'll look for my pics . dead center of the pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v00d00child Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Wow--didn't realize that. Was going off of what the shock sales guy was telling me (derrrrr.) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Thats a f4 i shock in the pic so as long as the 900r shock has a steel cap your good to go.( i think it does). Mine held presure fine all last year until i just released it in preparation for taking the shock off to change the valving a bit more . With the heavier spring you need more rebound and most likely less compression. If you do it take off the oring before you solder the fitting in . I have been unable to find the right orings anywhere , even measured then and ordered some and they still weren't right so ended up reusing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I am about 260-270 without gear. I am using an 1100 lb spring on the f4 shock im using, on the least preload adjustment. I haven't been inside a 900rr shonk but i assume its the same deal as the f4 . Drill a small hole in the end of the res to release the preasure. (go just through the metal or you will nick the bladder). Push in the res in take out the inner circlip , put a screw in the hole you just drilled to pull out the cap. Now for the shock itself ( from memory) 1) remove the spring 2) hold the jam nut , screw off the bottom link thing 3) hold the shaft with aholder ( 1/2 inch piece of alum with a 14 mm hole through it cut i 2 piece through the hole) , remove the jam nut. 4) pry off the dust cover on the end of the shock 5) push in the seal head 6) remove the inner circlip 7) pull out shaft seal heat and valving If anybody wants to actually try this themselves let me know and 'ill try and write beter instructions , but i just wanted to give an idea of what is involved. the only way yo learn if to GOFORIT Im going to be taking my shock apart again the next few weeks to take out some compression damping so if anyone need pics of a given step i'll try and get them. Thanks Herb Ps it a lot easier to find newer f4i shocks then 900r, THe f4i shock requires a 1/2 shim amove the mount (travel is the same). There is a lot more thread on a f4i mount so grab one if you try this conversion. What are the part #'s for the F4 shock if I may ask :icon_think: as I have been looking at doing the 900rr shock swap but there don't seem to be many out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I do have the 900 shock...sitting on my back porch. If anyone is interested, PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOXXIC Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I have a brand new, stock, 954 shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I have a brand new, stock, 954 shock. & I have one with 5K miles on it. I wish it weren't such a job to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I will have to check the partnumber if it is still on one of the shocks i have. But im sure they are just f4i shocks, i dont know if there is more then one version. Here are my initial shim stacks, though i have taken out some compression since then . http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?for...&topicPage= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I do have the 900 shock...sitting on my back porch. If anyone is interested, PM me. Very Interested PM Sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 I will have to check the partnumber if it is still on one of the shocks i have. But im sure they are just f4i shocks, i dont know if there is more then one version. Here are my initial shim stacks, though i have taken out some compression since then . http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?for...&topicPage= Well I have just bought myself a 95 CBR900 shock from ebay US $61 , shipping is actually more expensive than the shock US $65 Now I just have to get a suitable spring . So what is it they do they do when they rebuild the shock, they change the damping to suit your weight, spring and riding requirements and regas is that right I have looked at the Eibach site and they do not even list a rear spring for the 95 900rr let alone an uprated one _________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 I think a rebuild would just change the seals and the oil and the gas. A revalve would actually change the damping as well. When i revalved my shock i used the same seals cause they were fine and i didn't have a sorce of new seals. A new seal head cost more then I was paying for my shock! THe suspension guy would also have to know the weight of your bike as well as you and your gear and the spring rate to have a hope of getting it close the first time. There are hundreds of variables with respect to shim configurations and oils. This is why suspension tunning seems like black magic . I try to only change on thing at a time so i can understand what the change did. thanks Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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