testrider Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Hi all, I have a 1997 CBR1100xx and the regulator is original and still working fine (after 25k miles so far). I'm planning a trip to Vegas from LA and after reading so many sudden failure of the regulator, I think I like to carry a backup with me just in case. My questions are: - Everybody is recommending the R1 regulator. What year of R1 regulator should I buy? - Since my current regulator is still working fine. I'm going to carry this new regulator with me and will replace it if it fails on the road. How easy/hard is it to replace the regulator with a R1 regulator with just basic hand tools? Or should I just go ahead and replace it before the trip? Thank you for any help. -mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I have a spare R-1 for the same reason but consider this: If your stock regulator fails during the day, you probably won't notice till the battery is dead. I am from the east but I cannot see you making repairs in the desert with a screwdriver and some needle nose. If the bike is not trustworthy, make it so. If it happens at night, the chances of pulling this off are slim to McGyver. I added a voltmeter for insurance. These things usually start acting up before they fail. If they fail in the closed position they start putting some damaging voltage thru the ECU. If you see this coming you can shut it down before it fries a $600 part. I have a 99 regulator and it has a larger heat sink thn the R-1. But they are reasonable $10-25 and they (R-1) LOOK like they can handle more heat (load). Look under Yamaha parts on E-bay You definitely do not want to do this on the road. I travel with nothing and I know I should have basic tools but even a flat tire is too much to handle on the side of the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Good comment! Thanks. THen I am going to replace it in my home garage before the trip. Now do you know which year of R1 regulator should I get? I believe 97-98 XX regulator is different than 99-up ? As to flat tire repair, I carry a small bicycle pump (forget those CO2 cartridge. I have those and a single CO2 cartridge can only inflate the tire to 2 psi in a test I did. Unless you carry at least 20 cartridges, it's useless. With a small bicycle pump, I can pump it up to 42 psi in about 15 minutes by hand), a stop-N-go plug gun with mushroom shape rubber plugs so the plug can't be spit out (and I can plug a hole in 2 minutes). I would highly recommend it as I used it to plug my car tire too and it worked wonderfully. -mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I replaced mine at 20K with an 01 R1. Piece of cake to install, and I gained like 37 horsepower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I can inflate a tire in about 6 seconds off my nitrous bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Supposedly, it takes 5 CO2 cartriges to inflate a 180 section rear tire... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 If you try it, you'll be surprised. I let all the air out of my rear tire (a 180 tire of course), pump a new CO2 cartridge in there and I measured a little under 2 psi. You do the math (the tire needs 42 psi). I was glad I did the test as I was carrying only 5 cartridges under my seat. Now I only carry 1 small hand pump in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 I replaced mine at 20K with an 01 R1. Piece of cake to install, and I gained like 37 horsepower What year is your XX? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Birdman Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 The R/R you want is from an '01. The part number is 4JH-81960-01-00. It is not a direct plug and play since the R1 connector is different. That being said, it is the most compatible with the 97-98 Blackbird since these bikes only have 1 each hot lead and ground (as does the R1 R/R) compared to having to combine 2 into one as I did for my '99. If you set up a connector to adapt the R1 R/R in advance, changing the part itself on the road would be a piece of cake. Check out the following for how to adapt the connector. http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 What Mike said Same directions I followed, no surprises :wink: I have a 97. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 If you set up a connector to adapt the R1 R/R in advance, changing the part itself on the road would be a piece of cake. Or, if you had a factory stock replacement part, it would also be a hunk of cake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Thanks for all the help. I'm going to order one. One last question: - How far off the mounting holes of the R1 comparing to the stock holes? I have never removed mine, but are the threads inside the holes or are there nuts on the other side of the mounting bolts? What kind of modification will I need to do to the mounting holes to make the R1 fit? Oh, does the regulator body needs to be grounded to the frame? If not, I might as well relocated it to under the seat for future maintenance? THanks again. -mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K9XX Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Thanks for all the help. I'm going to order one. One last question:- How far off the mounting holes of the R1 comparing to the stock holes? I have never removed mine, but are the threads inside the holes or are there nuts on the other side of the mounting bolts? What kind of modification will I need to do to the mounting holes to make the R1 fit? Oh, does the regulator body needs to be grounded to the frame? If not, I might as well relocated it to under the seat for future maintenance? THanks again. -mike- Mine bolted right up, both holes :wink: No nuts, the holes are threaded in the frame. Shouldn't need any modifications. I dunno about the grounding question.....but once you change it, it's gonna be a loooooong time before you need to touch it again. It takes me about 5 minutes to get the tail piece off now Good luck, let us know how it works out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Birdman Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I have read at least one article where it mentioned the R/R uses the frame contact as a heat sink to help disperse the heat generated by the R/R. I'll try to find the link but it seems to make sense as one of the functions of the R/R is to convert the excess voltage generated by the stator but not needed by the battery or to run the bike into heat. Again, that's what I read when researching the best solution for my charging sytem problems. I'm certainly no expert in this area. Found the link: http://www.one-ring.net/vfrfaq/reg-rect.html He did the work on a VFR reg. but it would seem to apply to the BB edited to add link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 The RR does need to dump heat to the frame, and Honda supplies a big flat mounting pad for just that reason. Don't relocate. It probably wouldn't hurt to use some of that grease that they use between a computer heat sink and the chasis when you mount up a new RR. (or, do it just as a maintanence project on the one you have) I replaced my OEM (still working at 37,000 miles) RR with one of the replacement units that is finned. I do throw my original part in my tank bag when I go on a long trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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