RDosdorian Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Obby and I are going to attempt to do the brakes on my bike this coming weekend. Is there anything we need to know before attempting this? Anything to look out for? Anything that might make the job go easier/faster? Steve says he has done the rear only on his bike. He said the caliper did not need to be removed. Does this hold true for the fronts? If it does... any recommendations on how best to push the pistons back into the caliper? - Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 You cannot get the front wheel off without removing the caliphers. They actually mount inside the width of the rim. I know cause I yanked on the wheel until I realized all I was doing was scratching the rim. As for depressing the pucks, I think you can do it with a flat object like a screwdriver. I use a c clamp on cars but the bird caliphers do not allow room. They are small (3) and mine offered very little resistance. This is one of those jobs that may take an hour for the two fronts and 10 minutes if you had a second pair. The back is very straight forward as well. I beleive that you can slide the rears in without removing the calipher. I may be mistaken but I believe that you can slide the fronts in as well provided you remove the hex cap screw and then the slotted head pin. This pin usually sticks quite hard. An impact tool and some penetrating oil wll help. If you are using after market pads, the heat sinks (SS perforated shims) may not fit. If you can't get them in an freely rotate the wheel, leave em off. These parts are small and while not delicate, slow steady pressure on the pucks will make them retract without damage. Don't forget to apply some kind of loc tight on the bolts that actually hold the caliphers to the frame. Another unpleasant experience is how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexxus Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 i just. put a towel on them. with the help of a friend. holding the bar's straight. i just push on the caliper's with my foot. work's for me. take's a second. pad's off. pad's on. slowly pump lever. til hard. go riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Here's some info when I did mine... http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...ighlight=brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDosdorian Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 You cannot get the front wheel off without removing the caliphers. So, are you saying I need to remove the front wheel to do the front brakes? That would suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 You cannot get the front wheel off without removing the caliphers. So, are you saying I need to remove the front wheel to do the front brakes? That would suck! You do not have to remove the front wheel. Just press the caliper towards the wheel to compress the pistons. remove the cap and bolt that holds the pads and the pads will pretty much fall out. Before doing this remove the resivoir cover and suck out the fluid so it doesn't over flow. and put the cover back on so you don't spill fluid all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 No, the calipers are user friendly. If you WANT to take the front wheel off for tires etc. you HAVE to remove the calipers. I believe that you will find that getting the pin unfozen is your biggest challenge. Sometimes the pads jump into place and it is literally a 5 minute deal. Other times I have had to fiddle with them to get them just right. You will know when they are right as the pin will not go through unless they are seated. I never tried the shoe thing but it sounds good. A screw driver will compress the pistons without damage IF you take it easy on them. The shoe method sounds safer for a first time. Don't fret, this is an easy job but you will learn from your mistakes. If you had to do a second bike you would be amazed at how quick it can be. Trouble is I forget from one time to the next. I take mine out from time to time to inspect the pad material. When it gets down to dime thickness, I get a new set. You did not ask but the Galfer equivalent of OEM is driving me crazy. For a while they squeaked really bad, now they make this frying sound when you bear down on them. Some people think it is cool. I hate it. Going back to OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 ...Before doing this remove the resivoir cover and suck out the fluid so it doesn't over flow. and put the cover back on so you don't spill fluid all over the place. Now I was told NOT to do this. The system is sealed with a diaphragm in the reso to take up the air space as the pads get thinner. There should be plenty of room to compress the calipers, and put the new pads on, without opening the resovoir. I've changed my front pads once and my rears twice and I have never had to open the reso, nor have I ever had to remove my wheels to do so. The fronts were realtively easy, the rears I had to play with a bit to get the pads to seat properly, but I can do all three in less than an hour now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDosdorian Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Removing fluid from the master cylinder is something you generally have to do on cars. Some mechanics are just stupid (for lack of a better word). They see the fluid a bit low in the master so they add. This by itself is not a bad thing, but if you do not know they did it, you will have a mess when you compress the pistons. I have to say... I have never seen this problem on bikes... but there is always a first time. Thank you for the reminder of this. I will keep my eye on it. BTW... is there an easy way to get to the rear master cylinder? It appears to be up under the plastic. I am really hoping that I do not have to remove the tail section to get to it. The only reason for these questions is... Other than what I was told by FDChief, I do not know the entire history of the bike. Therefore I do not know what has been done/not done when it comes to the brakes. I am trying to eliminate any surprises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Removing fluid from the master cylinder is something you generally have to do on cars. Â Some mechanics are just stupid (for lack of a better word). Â They see the fluid a bit low in the master so they add. Â This by itself is not a bad thing, but if you do not know they did it, you will have a mess when you compress the pistons. Â I have to say... I have never seen this problem on bikes... but there is always a first time. Â Thank you for the reminder of this. Â I will keep my eye on it.BTW... is there an easy way to get to the rear master cylinder? Â It appears to be up under the plastic. Â I am really hoping that I do not have to remove the tail section to get to it. The only reason for these questions is... Â Other than what I was told by FDChief, I do not know the entire history of the bike. Â Therefore I do not know what has been done/not done when it comes to the brakes. Â I am trying to eliminate any surprises. Just the response I was about to give to Squareman. The easiest way to get to the rear master cylinder is to... well... remove the rear cowl #-o Maybe their little jap fingers can do it, but mine can't :x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 The easiest way to get to the rear master cylinder is to... well... remove the rear cowl Yep. Don't see what the big deal is, it's eight bolts. Takes maybe three minutes to remove once the seat is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDosdorian Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 The easiest way to get to the rear master cylinder is to... well... remove the rear cowl Yep. Don't see what the big deal is, it's eight bolts. Takes maybe three minutes to remove once the seat is off. The bike is new (only a little over a week) to me. It didn't look like a big deal, but I wanted to ask before I did it. A source like this is great. You guys have done things I have not done yet. You guys would be able to give advise about things that the book just either does not cover well or maybe makes more out of it than it needs to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 The easiest way to get to the rear master cylinder is to... well... remove the rear cowl Yep. Don't see what the big deal is, it's eight bolts. Takes maybe three minutes to remove once the seat is off. The bike is new (only a little over a week) to me. It didn't look like a big deal, but I wanted to ask before I did it. A source like this is great. You guys have done things I have not done yet. You guys would be able to give advise about things that the book just either does not cover well or maybe makes more out of it than it needs to be. Wait til you get to the spark plugs the book has you taking half the bike apart. We'll learn ya the easy way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 I changed mine to Galfer Blacks awhile back. Rear no problem. Fronts the pin didn't fit through the hole in the pad. I called them (cycle brakes) to see if they sent the wrong pads for the front and they said I had the right ones. WTF, why don't they fit I ask. We'll call Galfer and ask them. Galfer response "well the stamping tool changes over time so the hole gets smaller as it gets older". What kind of quality control do you have I ask. "We are extremely quality conscience, all you have to do is mill out the hole a little larger and they will fit fine." :shock: Well they were right, but come on. Said they would send another set for my troubles. Never got them. FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.