kjclark7 Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 i have an 2002 bird with almost 12,000 miles on it. i have been thinking of upgrading the brake pads, lines, rotors and when the time comes plugs. heres my thoughts...for plugs i would go with NGK IMR9A-9H iridium plugs. for brake pads i was thinking EBC, Galfer pads, or just stick with oem. for rotors either ABM or Galfer, dont really know too much about these or any others out there. as for changing the lines i was reading all the posts from the spiegler group buy and it seemed like a bunch of guys were not totally satisfied. but thats just about the only full line ss kit out right now right??? if i am going to pay all that $$$$ the fit and finish and how it fits on my 2002 bird should be perfect. so i am not sure about going with spiegler lines. galfer has clutch and front set but i think i would want a full set. well thats my plan in the near future, prob not all at once though. or maybe i'll just stay oem. i dont know. so any thoughts on any of my selections i am open for opinions. oh and i will probably just stick with oem air filter when i change it. seems like most of you did the same. kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHaul Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I like the EBC pads, although they don't bite that hard when wet. But the biggest improvement I've ever made has been to upgrade the suspension. Racetech springs and valves up front and I went with the CBR900RR shock with a heavier Eibach spring. Will probably go with Ohlins in back when I get the cash although I'm not totally unhappy with the 900 shock. Still its an improvement over the BB stock shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjclark7 Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 i will probably do upgrades to the suspension also but not now i dont think. will have to save up a lot more $$$ for those upgrades. do you think oem brakes have better bite in the wet than ebc's??? your not the first person thats said they don't have the same bite in the wet. not that i ride in the wet a lot but when or if i do, i want to stop asap. longhaul, nice pics in your gallery. where did you go? looks like an awesome trip. some really scenic areas and i bet the pictures dont do it justice. oh, what kind of bags are on your bike? kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Stock plugs on a 2002 XX are already the iridium plugs, and are supposed to be good for 32k miles. EBC HH are good pads... lots of bite and they last, too. Ran them on my previous XX, and once the stockers on this XX wear out, I'll run them on this XX too. I didn't see any reason to upgrade the rotors, though. Upgrading brake lines is tedious work on the XX, due to the linked brake system. That's got something to do with why I haven't done it on mine yet. Did the clutch line, that took about a half hour. I don't feel the difference, but when I was putting my VFR bars on, this one gives me the extra length I wanted. Ended up cutting out the solid portion of the line with a dremel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I doubt you'll feel a difference with aftermarket rotors, and at 12k there's plenty of life left in your stockers. Lines are a good idea. The Galfer kit gives you most everything you need- it replaces the stock rubber lines up front and leaves the factory hardlines. It'll improve front feel without the complexity of replacing perfectly good factory hard lines. That's where the Spiegler kit went overboard, IMO- why replace lines that already have zero flex or swell? Hel also makes a kit that replaces only the rubber lines, comes in colors, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Tim, I checked www.helusa.com since i've never heard of that brand b4 ( :roll: i know, i'm being slow again). Their ss dual line kit which seems to include everything was $98. I heard of Galfer b4. What one is your preference or are both of equal quality? And 2nd, where is the best places to buy? I like a soft rear so will leave oem, but want to sharpen up the front feel (quicker harder initial bite and more power w/o pulling lever so far in). Plus i need to change all my brake / clutch fluid next spring. I've been cut off by the el presidente regarding bird farkles (i promised the Wilbers was the last one in '05, but fell off the wagon and did the HID too w/o asking), so currently not in good standing. But I do want to put one of these brake line kits on my Xmas list w the hope of getting lucky... Plus i have to order Pilot Power Front and Road Rear next spring. POS Hondas, does it ever end? B out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjclark7 Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 thanks for the replies guys. i didn't realize that the factory plugs would go for 32k, i thought it was 16k. well i guess those will stay for a little longer. as far as the lines go, once again i didn't realize that the rear had hard lines...never really looked. any difference between galfer and hel? so getting other rotors will not really make a difference? well thats good to hear, they are expensive. well i will probably change to ebc pads when these wear out and i am going to check out prices on galfer and hel lines. any recomendation on where to get best prices? maybe i'll have money to upgrade suspension without doing all the things i was thinking. thanks guys. kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 The rear lines are rubber, as are the front. Everything in between is steel hardlines. Feel on the rear is less critical, especially with the LBS, so a change there is more about bling, IMO. Not that it isn't worth doing, my rear line is braided, but then again, I'm de-linked. Sorry, I have no direct experience with shopping for or using either Hel or Galfer lines on the XX. I'm sure both are fine products, I'd let my wallet decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjclark7 Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 redbird, what lines are you running? how come you de-linked? was it a hard job doing that? i am happy with the way the bike is now, but i am always looking to make it better...depending on the wallet. kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 The rear lines are rubber, as are the front. Everything in between is steel hardlines. Feel on the rear is less critical, especially with the LBS, so a change there is more about bling, IMO. Not that it isn't worth doing, my rear line is braided, but then again, I'm de-linked.Sorry, I have no direct experience with shopping for or using either Hel or Galfer lines on the XX. I'm sure both are fine products, I'd let my wallet decide. Just a FYI... www.cyclebrakes.com has Galfer s/s clutch and front brake kits for $119 plus shipping. I also got the bleeder fitting for the m/c for ten bucks a piece. Just shy of a buck-fiddy for the lines, fittings and shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHaul Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Yes, I do think the stock pads bite initially better when wet than the EBC HH. I went from Atlanta (my home) to Wisconsin, then Montana, then New Mexico, then back home. 5500 miles,... I think. 13 days. I've got some soft saddle bags, I don't even know the name. Got them cheap from a friend. I want the Givi set, and the Ohlins shock, and the Spiegler lines, and the HID, and the heated grips, and a ThrottleMiester, and.........in due time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I'm running the lines that came with the de-link kit I bought. BSR, I believe, from the U.K. I de-linked because I didn't like the linked brakes. If you had a problem with them I think you'd know by now :wink: . It's not really an upgrade, more of a personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Best XX upgrades money can buy: 6mm shim on rear shock - 50 cents Front spring upgrade/fork oil change - $110.00 Brakes - what you have is probably fine, just replace the fluid - you'll notice a difference. Plugs - 12k is a good time to change them. Go with the iridium, there is no performance gain, they just last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Best XX upgrades money can buy:6mm shim on rear shock - 50 cents Front spring upgrade/fork oil change - $110.00 Brakes - what you have is probably fine, just replace the fluid - you'll notice a difference. Plugs - 12k is a good time to change them. Go with the iridium, there is no performance gain, they just last longer. +1 a vital thing to remember is run seafoam or a similar fuel system cleaner fairly regularly - produces amazing results for almost no munni at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Brian ,, the seafoam is that good ? I have no issues with the running of my FI 01'. 11K miles now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Brian ,, the seafoam is that good ? can't speak for seafoam specifically as we don't have it in South Africa. I use a product manufactured locally called Wynns Spitfire which is an all-purpose fuel system cleaner. When throttle response gets bad and the bike doesn't quite feel itself I put a bottle thru the tank with a full load of fuel, and in no time fuel consumption improves and she's flying again. ZAR10 (about US$1,50) makes a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Brian ; I did a search on the board on Seafoam , and saw testimonials all positive. My bike has had a "lumpy" idle since I got it a year ago. It sounds like it has a big cam in it , and smells a little rich at idle. The only thing it has on it that's not stock is a set of D&D's. There is no hesitation , but a little surging at light throttle in the 2K-2.5K rpm range. I'm sure a Power Commander would solve these issues , but damm , it does sound good at idle ! The lumpiness in quality is more pronounced as the engine is cold, but still there when warm to a lesser degree. I'm going to try this stuff in both my bike and my truck. If it's that good , I might even shower in the stuff !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Seafoam works. It's a big thing over in the boating forums as well. I seafoamed my 1997 outboard (2 stroke V6) when I bought it last year, and had the heads off before and after. Huge improvement, and it made the engine much much quieter and smoother. Definitely works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Best XX upgrades money can buy: forgot to add a 16 tooth front sprocket and a speedohealer - both new additions to my Bird. Makes my very average wheelie ability shine bigtime - and the new R1 and Gixxer1K have a horrible time trying to out-accelerate me now where they used to leave me for dust. So I sacrifice top-end I don't use... what a whoopeee effect at lower speeds tho' :twisted: :twisted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Yeah , I have the 16t front sprocket on my "to-do" list as well. I'm looking forward to those 2nd gear power wheelies myself. What was involved in integrating the speedo-healer? Any splicing involved or just plug and play with a little programming ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 They have a nifty tool on their website to create the dip-swich changes based on original % difference, and then changes to sprockets front or rear. Was a 1st time bullseye - at 160Km/h on GPS I'm dead on. You get to redline a WHOLE lot quicker than ur used to tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 I don't mind the getting to the redline quicker deal in top gear. I really should slow down a little anyway. The fastest I have had mine up to is an indicated 183MPH, and I ran out of road. It was still pulling though. I ride with a few guys on Sunday mornings who have CBR1000RR's and a couple of new ZX-10's. Not that we "race" around all day , but it would be nice to not get walked on all the time. The final drive ratio stock is 2.647 versus 2.81 when you go to the 16T sprocket. In car terms , this isn't much of a change , but it must be much more noticeable on the bike though. I suppose it would kill about 10-12mph on top end. I just went to the yellow box website also. It looks pretty easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjclark7 Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 $110 for changing front forks and oil??? i thought springs were more than that. can someone explain to me what the gold valve from race-tech do? it seems like race tech is what to get and some of you guys are talking about the gold valves, i can't figure out where they go and what they do. i am 6'5 about 225lbs and ride 2 up about half the time, what spring rate would you guys recommend? i know i haven't been talking about suspension but the front end seems to fit in my budget, sorta. kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 $110 for changing front forks and oil??? i thought springs were more than that. can someone explain to me what the gold valve from race-tech do? it seems like race tech is what to get and some of you guys are talking about the gold valves, i can't figure out where they go and what they do. i am 6'5 about 225lbs and ride 2 up about half the time, what spring rate would you guys recommend? i know i haven't been talking about suspension but the front end seems to fit in my budget, sorta. kevin Springs are about $100 - Either Racetech, progressive or Wilbers. You can change your fork oil to a 3, 5 or 7 wt. Works almost as well as re-valving. You can call the manufacturers and tell them your weight, riding style etc.. and they should be able to recommend a spring and oil weight for you. I replaced my springs/oil with a floor jack and hand tools - took almost an hour. Easy mod. Edit: Do a search on the board for Wilbers - There is alot of good info on springs, oil wt, oil levels etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 I just installed new Ohlins front springs from Jaws. They are a 1.05kg/mm rate spring and are about 100mm longer than the stockers. John(Jaws) recommends staying with 10wt oil when using these springs. You can see them on his web site. I didn't have time to pull the forks, so I just popped the new springs in. They are a dramatic improvement over the OEM's. BTW, I am about your size and have a Penske rear shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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