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De-linked


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Also, what does "feed the standard front to rear link host around the throttle cables and route to the rear of the machine" mean?

Seb is referring to the best way to remove the front to rear linking brake pipe. If I remember correctly, it's a long metal pipe(s) that gets disconnected at both ends from the front secondary master cylinder and from the rear master. You then need to bend/twist it so that you can then pull it out from the rear end. Also a good call going with the Hyperpro springs. IMO it's the best bang for the buck to improve the forks.

-Colin

YEP... that makes sense now that I consider what "routing to the rear of the machine means".

How on earth do I get all (or most) of the old fluid out of those lines before I start removing them?

Yeah... I've always installed progressive springs on other bikes and have always been pleased with the results.

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Next question...

Which bleeders are used to bleed the brakes when there's only 4 hoses to worry about?

There is a $12 bleeder that you can get from any m/c dealer--its the bolt that the two lines banjo into---with a bleeding nipple on it---helps a ton to bleed the upper system

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Which bleeders are used to bleed the brakes when there's only 4 hoses to worry about?

If you're talking about the bleed valves, all of them. Four up front, two in back. A vacuum bleeder makes this about a 15 minute job, if you don't have one, I'd suggest making the $30 investment- well worth the money.

How on earth do I get all (or most) of the old fluid out of those lines before I start removing them?

You don't. Just install some small balloons with rubber bands at the end of any open lines, this does a great job of keeping the fluid off of everything while you yank out the lines (this is advice from Seb when I did mine, works good).

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If you're talking about the bleed valves' date=' all of them. Four up front, two in back. A vacuum bleeder makes this about a 15 minute job, if you don't have one, I'd suggest making the $30 investment- well worth the money[/quote']

I have a Minivac and have used it for years.

I thought that the middle bleed valve was for the line that connected the front and rear calipers and with the de-linking kit, that line would no longer exist.

So... I still need to bleed at 8 valves rather than 3? :sad:

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I inadvertently managed to lockup the front tire yesterday. Fortunately I was only doing about 45mph, but it left a pretty good skidmark nonetheless. You obviously gain a LOT more clamping force after de-linking. I always brake using two fingers, and yesterday was no exception.

Glad I found out where the threshold is when the roads were dry. :lol:

-Pace

p.s I was practicing emergency/threshold braking in case you're wondering WTH I was doing.

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Yeah, you'll be bleeding the center piston more than the line with the center valves, but you've gotta do it. Should only be six, though.

Since the pistons at a given caliper are now linked, I would have thought that it shouldn't matter which of the two nipples you bleed from. I did all four up front anyway, just in case of trapped air and so forth. Ditto for the two at rear.

-Pace

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