Alpha Crow Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Having issues with my bird, 99 FI, micron slip ons w/ PCII installed, 13k miles. Ran perfectly fine, but started slowly degrading from not starting (will start eventually) to bogging down at low RPM take offs. At low RPM's and at idle, it will try to die (hitting very poorly) and/or die. Exhaust smells heavily of fuel. Initially I though it was the battery, changed it out, but... heh, here I am. Checked electrical connections, seemed ok. The only thing I haven't done is change the air filter (is on order, comes in tomorrow), though I doubt it went bad over a short time after running normal... but I'm not ruling it out. Could it be a sensor or something? The fuel injection runs fine, does not fault and sprays. I changed the oil and plugs out (old plugs looked just fine), boots and wiring looked good. What would you guys suggest (after air filter)? Again, ran just fine for years and suddenly started going bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Remove the PC and see... take away the variables and you will ultimately be left with a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Make sure the electrical plug is on the air box for the air temp. It also might be bad. Check the codes also. Will foul the plugs also. Clean the injectors. Seafoam. I remove the injectors and carb clean and blow through with air and reinstall. No problem but it useally is to lean when they are dirty. I had an old tank with some rust and was getting that in the injectors so not your problem, but the elec. plug on the air box back left corner being left off will richen up enough to fowl plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexxus Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 If you are like me, you installed the pc yourself with a zero map on it, what i found out is you cant go up into the rich zone without having your fi light comes on, Did it? if so you just have too keep your adjustments in the lean area or have a custom map done, the 99 in very sensative to adjustments to the ecm though the pc2 causing it too get to much fuel .i had mine mapped and the shop did'nt know what they were doing and my bike had all the symptoms you are having before i just unpluged the pc2 and all was well had my money refunded and waiting for my appointment with another shop who knows how to work on the 99birds from the conversations i had with the tuner, hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 i had mine mapped and the shop did'nt know what they were doingYou don't say! and my bike had all the symptoms you are having before i just unpluged the pc2 and all was well had my money refunded and waiting for my appointment with another shop Really... just what are they going to do different? who knows how to work on the 99birds from the conversations i had with the tuner, hope this helps. So he says. Here I'll quit being a smart ass and ask you a really good question... Can this New Shop that you're going to take your bike to, Run it at a steady 45 miles an hour, test it, record it, then accelerate it up to 55, repeat, 65,repeat, 75 repeat, 85, repeat, 95, repeat, 105, repeat, and then messure it's decelleration numbers? No. Well then how are they supposed to adjust your bike for normal street riding? If all they can do is an acceleration Dyno run, then all they can truely adjust for is a blast down the dragstrip. Keep your eyes on the garage.... I'll be posting some info you'll be interested in .... hopefully by the middle of next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Shit, mine runs rich with just slipons. Everything else is factory except the Pair valves have been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted September 3, 2005 Author Share Posted September 3, 2005 Heh. Well, I pulled the PCII and reset the ECU, same problem. I did multiple tests on several sensors, relays and wirings, everything seems to check out. Changed oil, air filter (K&N), blew out breather tube, drained fuel tank, installed new sparks, new battery.... still have problem, though the bike runs a bit tighter now I did not check the air temperature gauge on the airbox. I'll do that, but I don't think it's the problem. After much scientific testing and removing of variables I got the issue down to this: Upon start up, cranks right up and runs strong, responds quick. Once warm up mode turns off and the idle drops to about 1100 to 1000 RPM, it will start chugging a bit and bog down to low RPM (600-RPM) and die. It will do this consistently. If the bike is hot, and you try to start it, often it needs some throttle for it to catch and turn over. Again, starting cold, it cranks right up with no throttle needed. So as long as I ride for 3 minutes or less once a day, I'm good Also, haven't checked this issue recently, but I noticed the bike would pop/gurgle from the pipes on take off from a stop at low RPM as I accelerate (less than 5000 RPM). The power would stutter and the slight popping noise would occur, until higher RPM when it smoothed out and went away. ONly occurs under load, neutral will not do this. Ok, thanks for the prior advice and for any more! I need all the help I can get. I'm giving up for the most part and taking it to the Honda Stealer,.... er, Dealer for a diagnostic. Quick question: Can I check the fault codes if the FI light is not on or indicating a problem. Will the FI light code display not FI issues? I have the Hayne's manual with info on that, but seems to imply that the FI light needs to be on prior for the codes to work. Thanks again guys, appreciate all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 You can check codes without the light on. You might want to download "Not Automatic" at the top of this section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 More than likely You're problem is just the K&N air filter and the Pipes.... ... I say that because had the same problem. I'm currently .... testing and talking with my.... MENTOR (JOE)... about the remidy for this problem. You need a really good Map. One that's designed for just your problem. .... Just hold on and for godsakes man... don't take it to the stealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 You might try turning the knob on the left side of the bike near the frame and see if it does anything. It's your idle adjustment. Mine would start up just fine and then one day it would do like you are describing. The cable came loose from the upper end and the idle adjustment backed off. 5 minutes and I fixed it, no problems so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 Yes, you guys are probably mostly correct, BUT I forgot to say that it has run perfect for over a year and then developed this problem. Mapped it for the pipes and has been good to me, then started having starting issues, then idling issues. After a general maintenance session to see if I could fix it the easiest/cheapest way, the starting went away, but I am left with the poor idle and the bogging down in power under load. It does seem like a fuel issue, so I'll look at the codes. The exhaust smells fuel rich... didn't used to, so makes me think something went out recently. Also, I did adjust the idle to a bit higher. It was idling around 800RPM prior to the problem with no trouble, but after it started having issues I turned it up to the manual default of 1100 -+50 RPM. It runs just fine on warm up mode, but once it starts lowering the idle to near 1000... it will chug or seemed to hit poorly once or twice, which lowers it below 1000... which makes it chug again and more... which lowers it more, etc. Until it dies. Kinda like the cocaine commercial from childhood... "so I can do more coke.... so I can work longer... so I can earn more.... so I can do more coke" Also, thanks for the ideas on the map. I'll hang in there a bit longer and see what I can see Just so out of ideas to check or repair, seems to be out of my hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott s. Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 mine was doing something close to yours turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. didn't know mac or jerry but i will ride today for them, god bless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted September 6, 2005 Author Share Posted September 6, 2005 Interesting, that is one of the few ideas I have. I know when I unscrewed the pressure release bolt, that I didn't get any hiss and no fuel came out. But the fuel pump is priming and obviously putting some pressure in since it runs at all. I'll try to do the volume test with it and see if I can't figure this out yet. My other options are a faulted sensor or the idle timing not advancing. Second one is unlikely... How hard was it to change out the fuel pump? About how much did it cost? (I bought the bike with the PCII installed already... I know I'm a dumb new guy so I'll need to go check if the PAIR unit is removed and bridged... I don't remember seeing it, but better deal in "for sure" and not in "I don't think"). Thanks for the help so far guys. Anymore ideas, let me know. After this last check for the fuel pump and PAIR, I'm taking it to the dealer (cough, stealer) for a diagnostic. I'm so far into riding withdrawals that I sat on it in the garage with a box fan pointed at me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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