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Dead Bird


Cossi

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Well she tried to leave me stranded today. luckily I was in a place where I could push start her. I know I have heard and seen some other issues on this. I got her home and she still wouldn't start. Seems like I heard something about cleaning contacts in the switchgear? Or something like that. I can push start here, but the ignition is dead.

Whatchoo think folks? I am gonna check a few other things when I have time after I get home this evening. But I gots to go back to work.

TIA

Rick

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dead bird... I would wrap the breast meat in bacon with along with a few choice spices and put in the oven on 350 for 45 minutes or until a nice golden color appears and the bacon is crispy. 8)

Start with checking the charge of the battery, also check the posts to make sure their clean.. Trace wires to make sure there are no wear spots causing it to ground out. Take switch apart and make sure the contacts are clean and making good connection..

if all this fails go get some beer and a dead bird.. you won't be able to ride but you will have dinner :wink:

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Like I tried to post earlier and got kicked off for some reason. :roll:

I will probably go ahead a put a battery in it, because as far as I know it has the original battery (doubtfull as it may be) the bike IS 5 years old, so even if it was replaced after 2-3 years, that means the one in the bike could be 2-3 years. Kinda of an insurance thing.

Matey: I will take that bet, because I just added some more goodies, and made damn sure the battery connections were tight, and clean. 8) I had that bite me in the ass on a car, and even once on this bike, it won't happen again.

Thanks to all, I will be going home in about an hour and will tear into it then.

Rick

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I hate to ask, but how about the kill switch, kick stand switch, etc. Are the connections good and tight? You might try flicking your kill switch a couple of times to clean the contacts.

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Okay guys so what is it? It is either the battery, or the R/R.

Battery voltage is as follows: All voltages are +/-

Key off - ~10.6v

Key on engine off - ~7.1v

Engine running - ~10.2v

Personally I am thinking the battery. I will try to find one tomorrow probably. The only thing that kinda scares me is I feel like the charging system should be doing more than it is as well. What are your thoughts?Anyone disagree?

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From my experience those readings are way too low. I would say it's a bad battery. FWIW, I just went through the same thing. Bike would start normally except when the fan was running (as in immediately after turning the bike off on a hot day). Battery wouldn't put out enough until the bike cooled enough to shut off the fan then it would start normally. My voltage readings were 12.1 with the key of and 11-12 with the key on(well below what the manual called for). Also, I would get an intermitent FI light while cranking on initial start which would go away when the bike started. Replaced the battery, all's well.

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I would say the battery is dead. Might have dropped a cell.

You mentioned you added some goodies.. what did you add? The stator isn't that of a GoldWings. You drain to much juice and the stator will work its ass off to recharge the system. Also could fry your R/R

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Yep. I'd guess you've lost a cell in your battery too. It's down about 2 volts and that's about one cell's worth.

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GPS hard wiring, and Motolights 50W. Is what has been added.

The other thing I noticed tonite, as I was running was the tach would die completly. and somehow the brake light would cause or affect this. Then when I revved it, the tach would jump to life. The N light was growing dimmer progressivley (slowly), and so I was about 90% sure it was the battery, but thought I would get your opinions on it as well.

I will try to find a battery tomorrow for it.

Rick

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Guest rockmeupto125

Running, your bike should be trying like hell to charge that battery. If you don't get an increasing voltage reading as you increase the revs, its probably the regulator.

Charge the battery. If it doesn't take a charge, and put out 12.5 volts when charged, its bad.

You should be getting 14 volts at crusing speed from the system.

Your battery needs to be healthy for the charging system to work. Make sure the battery is in good shape before diagnosing the system. Around here, most auto parts stores will do a load test on your battery after its charged....that's quick and simple.

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:stupidsign:  

Might be the dreaded reg/rec issue.

are you calling me an asshole? Asshole! :lol:

When my R/R went on my Yamaha it stunk like burning shit.. :?

Start with the simple stuff first and work your way to more complicated solutions

NO, I'm not calling you an asshole. read the sign...........stoooopid :D

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Okay here is the deal. I put in the battery and it starts and runs and all that good stuff. Turned off it is at 12.6v, running increases the voltage, so the charging system is working I beleive. With nothing hoooked up It will top 14v when revved, BUT, when I hook up the wires that operate the GPS and MotoLights(50W) Then when I rev it it only gets up to about 13.4. So I am wondering if the 50w bulbs aren't a little much for the XX. I haven't even installed my heated grips yet. I am wondering if I am not overloading her a bit.

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Guest rockmeupto125

You said 50 watt BULBS.

Are you running a pair of 50 watt lights?

If so, unless you are running steady at speed, they could very well suck down an electrical system that may not be running at 100%.

The fact that your battery charges up and your charging circuit appears to function appropriately leads me to believe you haven't been able to put back into the battery what you are drawing out.

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You said 50 watt BULBS.

Are you running a pair of 50 watt lights?

If so, unless you are running steady at speed, they could very well suck down an electrical system that may not be running at 100%.

The fact that your battery charges up and your charging circuit appears to function appropriately leads me to believe you haven't been able to put back into the battery what you are drawing out.

Well in that case I will pull them out and switch back to the 35W bulbs tonite. What you said was kinda what I was thinkin. Now that I got to thinking about it, I figured the 50s were too much.

Joe, do you think it can handle the 35W bulbs okay?

Rick

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Guest rockmeupto125

If you have those lights switched, and only use them while you are at speed, then I don't see a problem with using them. But frankly, I'd turn them off for a while unless necessary...just until you've got a handle on this situation and are assured there's not a need for a replacement battery or further service.

Strictly by the numbers, you should be able to draw an additional 100 watts without a problem....but there was a problem. If you've been using them around town, and the cooling fan has been running, etc, etc...then you've had legitimate draw, and an acceptable reason for your situation.

If it was me, I'd not run the accessory lights at all (unless I needed them badly for a short period) and spend a few days observing the system.

BTW, 8500, 8500x2, and BEL high end radar detectors have a voltmeter built in. :wink:

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I was playing around with my Beltronics detector today and saw the voltage option on it, and wondered why the hell I would want to switch it "on"......now I know!

:idea:

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