Wilbers Shock Install (2002)

[XXBIRD]

I've got the Wilbers 641 with remote preload and height adjuster. Wilbers is about 5mm (7/32") longer than the stock. The remote reservoir hose is pointing to the left so I had to install it to the left side of the bike. Dpending on the year of the bike, I assume you get it directed to the proper side. On my bike, there is the rectifier mounted right behind the rear brake hydrolic reservoir so there is no room under the tail piece.

I put the bike on the center stand and supported the rear tire just to push the swing arm up barely by jamming an inch thick wooden block. I didn't remove the tank but lifted it up supporting with the axle tool from the tool kit to get better light to the upper mount location. The right hand side of the upper mount nut is size 17mm and tucked in between the coolant water reservoir. You cannot see the bolt but it goes through the rubber mount which supports the coolant reservoir. It is pretty long. Left side is size 14mm. I used an articulated joint from the socket set so there was not a problem unbolting it. I doubt I could undo this bolt with a wrench. The socket set with the articulating joint adapter slides in between rigth behind the frame and the lower part of the subframe. It is a long bolt so be patient while holding the nut on the other side with the 17mm wrench. Once I pluued the bolt out, I pushed it back in to hold the shock in place. Then, I untightened the lower end of the shock and other two bolts holding the triangular shock link plates which connects the link to the shock. I marked the orientation of the pieces. It may look like a perfect traingle but it is not. I left the link in place swinging freely downward. Shock slid down with ease. Used the opportunity to clean and repack the bearings by pushing the pivot collars out. Cleaned the plates and the swing arm as good as they ever been cleaned.

Slipped the new shock from the top of the swingarm downward. It took a little rotating and jiggling but it goes through easily. Attached the top mounting bolt first, then the top/rear bolt for the plates then the shock lower mounting bolt. The lower holes and the link didn't match because the suspension is longer. Once I took the wooden block under the tire, it was pretty much alligned. By lifting the tire a tad bit helped to push the bolt through. I tighthened everything up.

The line for the remote reservoir/compression adjuster part is at a proper length but not at the correct angle if you want to have access to the comp. adjusters from the opening where the llift handle is located. Adjustment screws face upward and slightly outward in an unstrained/twisted state. The best place I found to locate it is to tie it up to the upper rail at the subframe positioned around the helmet hanging hook. I could rotate the line by holding the collar before the banjo bolt and twisting it but didn't want to mass with it. You CANNOT undo the the banjo bolts form either end since the oil is under pressure (called Klauss of WilbersUSA to ask). Since I didn't want to mass with the line, I was left out with only ioption which allows access to the adjustment screws under the seat.

I routed the line under the left passenger peg holder but first seperated the two plugs under that plastic protective sleeve. The line followed a natural path resting right under the subframe rail. I used two clamps came with the package to attach the reservoir onto the top part of the subframe. I split open a 3/8" clear plastic tube and placed between the the reservoir and the frame rail for a non-sliding soft support since I couldn't use the rubber feet they supplied. THey are to attach to a round surface such as the grab rail. Cut one of them to get two triangular pieces to wedge them inside the clamps on top of the reservoir to prevent the clamps twisting the reservoir upwards as it is tighthened. It required twisting the reservoir inwards to allign the adjustment screws closer to the frame.

I found the best location is when adjusting screws in front of the helmet hook. This is how it looks from under the seat.

The remote preload adjuster took a bit longer. Suggested location is the passenger foot peg sharing the mounting location with the exhaust but it would interfere with the GIVI wingrack. Wingrack mounts inside the peg and also the arm supporting the wings have curvature towards to tire so there is no room for the preload adjuster. The line is long enough fo rthat location but not long enough to rotate it around to place the knob facing forward. After thinkering a bit, it seemed like the best location was sharing the rear brake line clamp attachment locations. The traingular piece comes with the kit was not wide enough at the bottom to drill two holes and use as is so I fabricated one. Since I had to do it by hand, I've got a rather thin piece of aluminum sheet, cut one and shaped it then I cut another one and shaped it to match the first piece. It required to replace the bolts with the longer ones. I already had the Pyramid hugger under the clamps so adding another 3/8" was too much. I used two stainless stell M6x1.0 20mm bolts replacing the old ones. I laso bent the holder follwing the contour of the clamps so teh adjuster hangs right over the swingarm instead of sticking out towards the exhaust. To take care of the extra length of the line, I made a loop by twisting teh adjuster once making the line freely hanging next to the battery case.

I may add more pictures or other notes as I recall some other details. Free sag (R1-R2) used to be 17mm now 11mm. Ride height/dynamic sag (R1-R3) used to be 50mm now 38mm. I don't quite understand the recommended "it should be between 10-15% of the maximum suspension travel" statement. Ohlins site recommends 10 < R1-R2 < 20 and 35 < R1-R3 < 50. Based on this my factory default setting falls near the lower limit for road setting.

Now, all I need is a voluenteer who would test ride my bike to fine tune it.

[D2]

does anyone have the torque for the top and bottom bolts that hold the shock on? thanks

D2

[JB4XX]

I borrowed Nik's torque wrench when I replaced my shock Dave :wink:

[XXBIRD]

If you must know...

Upper mounting bolt: 42N-m (31lbf-ft)

Lower mounting bolt: 42N-m (31lbf-ft)

Link plate bolt (frame side): 59N-m (43lbf-ft)

Link plate bolt (lower side): 42N-m (31lbf-ft)

They don't need locktite since they are "locking nuts".

[D2]

Thanks for the info.

[pug]

Nice work XXBIRD.

Did you check if the spring preload reservoir is not interfering with the

body when the rear is in full compression?

You can do that if you remove one of the shock mounting bolts and move the swingarm (almost) fully up.

You can check my installation of a similar shock setup

http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...5477&highlight=

So far I can report that I don't have any issues with the bodywork.

Also I guess you know that, by installing the reservoir on the swingarm you

increase unsprung mass (although very little since the reservoir is very light)

[N1K]

I borrowed Nik's torque wrench when I replaced my shock Dave :wink:  

So did you tighten it "uuuuhhhhhmmpf" hard?

or did you use the "argghghghghg mmmmmmmrrrrrrrr ehhhhh" setting?

:greenfingers: a-hole!