Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 I just read another post concerning this and I'm getting the same symptoms. Glows after the bike is warm, goes away when I hit the brakes or indicators... the intensity of the glow seems to be dependent on throttle input, more throttle = more bright. I read about the potential fixes, and stuff to look at. My question is, I'm 200 miles away from home right now... and the bike runs fine. Would it be a bad idea to ride this bike home? It's all interstate. I'm pissed. This bike isn't supposed to break. :evil: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 Out of 42 views I suppose that if this was extremely critical somebody could have been bothered with posting a "no, don't do it." So I guess I'll ride it home. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 Mine did the same thing until I reset the ECU and cleaned the grounds. I really think the ECU reset did the trick. I had an IAT sensor code showing when I checked it. Reset your ECU if you can. Ride it home either way. I'll bet you will be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 yea I would ride it home as well if it seemed to be running like it shoudl...good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 I rode the entire 200 miles home and the light didn't come on once. I was going to head up to Deal's Gap again next weekend with some friends, but I'm not so sure if that's a good idea. But fortunately I have an engineer friend who's good with electronics and likes working on stuff. I suppose I should give him a call and start browsing through the FSM. Then check the codes, reset the ECU, and get to cleaning up the grounds/connections. If I can't duplicate the problem before next weekend, I suppose I'll go anyway. We'll have a truck with a trailor so if the bike breaks it won't be much more than an annoyance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 I just went to check the codes, and if I checked correctly (sidestand down, engine on at idle) it appears as though nothing is currently wrong. Now I just need to find a length of wire to stick in the service check connector... but first I need to find it, I guess I'll need to pull the tail section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 I don't have my manual in front of me(we just moved), but don't you need a jumper wire just to check the codes? Forgive me if my memory fails me. Try to reset your ECU anyway. It won't hurt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 I don't have my manual in front of me(we just moved), but don't you need a jumper wire just to check the codes? Forgive me if my memory fails me.Try to reset your ECU anyway. It won't hurt anything. I think you're right. Reading the manual here I'm left with the impression that what I did was to check for any problems that it could detect in the system right that instance. To check the memory or to reset the ECU I need a jumper wire. Did you have to remove the tail plastic to get to the service check connector so you could stick the wire in it? I let the bike warm up and sit until after the fans kicked in. No solid light, no blinking light, no fading light... nothing. When I have more daylight tomorrow I'll see about checking the memory and resetting the ECM. When you say clean the grounds, are these things all over the bike? ...or grounds directly to the ECM? I'm sorry, I suck with electrical stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 No. You don't have to remove the tail section to access the service connector. It's a small two connector plug on the right side near the ECU. The grounds I was referring to are the green wires that screw to the frame near the battery on the top left frame rail. Don't forget to clean and tighten your battery cables too. My bike acted just like yours is now until I checked and reset my ECU codes. It drove me a little crazy too for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 No. You don't have to remove the tail section to access the service connector. It's a small two connector plug on the right side near the ECU. The grounds I was referring to are the green wires that screw to the frame near the battery on the top left frame rail. Don't forget to clean and tighten your battery cables too.My bike acted just like yours is now until I checked and reset my ECU codes. It drove me a little crazy too for a while. Thanks for the advice. I'll get to doing exactly that tomorrow when I get home from work. What can I use to clean the grounds and battery cables? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 I just use a wire brush and get them good and clean. I don't use any chemicals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 What can I use to clean the grounds and battery cables? I always use baking soda with a little bit of water (just enough to make a paste). brush it on, you will see it working the just rinse it off with water (repeat as nessesary) and you are done. Wire brushing will get them clean but not as clean as the baking soda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 9, 2005 Author Share Posted May 9, 2005 I just did the wire brush thing today, just because I didn't have any baking soda. First thing I did was made an attempt at checking the memory. I used a wire in the service check connector. I turned the ignition on, with the kill switch in the "on" (flipped so the bike would start) position. I got nothing, the FI light stayed on, no blinking... just solid. I tried it with the kill switch in the other position, and the FI light wouldn't come on at all when I turned the ignition to on. When I tried to reset the memory, still no blinking, which may be what happens when there's nothing to reset. I'd pull the wire out of the service check connector and the FI light would stay on, and wouldn't turn off. If I pulled the wire, and plugged it back in, same result... light stayed solid, no blinking. I took a wire brush to the battery terminals and the ground wires that connect to the frame right by where the gas tank bolts to the frame. They didn't look *bad*, the positive terminal certainly looked like it was a lot happier after cleaning it, but it didn't seem like it was bad enough to cause a problem. Same thing with the grounds, not perfectly clean, but not horridly bad either. But I'm not sure how bad it needs to be to cause any issues. After I got everything buttoned up again I started the bike, and let it run until it got hot. FI light stayed dead. Maybe this whole thing was just a fluke. What I tell my customers at work is that if I can't duplicate the error I can't fix it. I suppose the same logic holds true in this case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaXX Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I have found that the XX is a relatively good self healer. If a problem persists, I investigate (which rarely happens). Just an FYI, MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 I have found that the XX is a relatively good self healer. If a problem persists, I investigate (which rarely happens).Just an FYI, MaXX Hopefully my bike came from the factory with these self healing skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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