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Pete in PA can you help me?


Involute

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On one of your old posts which is now locked for some reason you stated the following about you R1 Rec install:

"I found these spade connectors at Pep Boys. The company name is Conduct-tite and they say female fits Ford 1/4". or just take the connector with you to match it up like I did. "

Do you happen to have a part number for that connector? The Pep Boys by me kind of boned me tonight and sent me on a wild goose chase. If I could get a part number from you (or anybody else) I'd be forever grateful. I would prefer to use on of those connectors over making a connector of my own.

http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...a/rr_fitted.jpg

I guess what i'm asking is are the + and - leads in this pic closest to the top of the R/R?

Thanks.

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On the top left of the card the # is 85352

Then below it has 20-18 which I assume is the wire gauge.

You do understand that these are individual female spade connectors 1 for each wire. You confused me when you said make my own.

Hope this helps.

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I guess I completely misunderstood the post. I thought you had found a plastic Block Connector that would fit right in the R1 R/R. Thanks for the quick response though. I've got some female spade connectors. I figure I'll just solder them on the wires after I cut them, wrap them, and plug them in. Then pray for higher voltage.

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Now Rock, when did you START minding your own bussiness?????? :razz:

I must have missed it. :lol:

Involute, If you go back and read the locked post I removed all the wires from inside the plastic conn. I didn't solder but used a regular wire crimper you can get anywhere and crimped the metal connectors on the wires (just like factory) and snapped them in the plastic connector.

this way you get a 100% factory look to the installation.

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Oh, I should actually reply to the post shouldn't eye.

Yes, there is a auto connector that fits right up to it - at least based on the words of a mate of mine in Oz that did one of the conversions on a VFR. No, I don't have any details. I'll see if I can find out, but then again, the brands and part numbers in Oz are probably way different to what you can get here in the US anyway. No promises, I'll see what I can find for you though.

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Oh, I should actually reply to the post shouldn't eye.

Yes, there is a auto connector that fits right up to it - at least based on the words of a mate of mine in Oz that did one of the conversions on a VFR. No, I don't have any details. I'll see if I can find out, but then again, the brands and part numbers in Oz are probably way different to what you can get here in the US anyway. No promises, I'll see what I can find for you though.

Thanks but I've decided to just hook up wires to it. Cody's next week abnd I gotta get her up to snuff. :grin:

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Beating a dead horse I think, but I have another question. Since I am going to use the individual spade connectors am I safe to just hook them up to the R1 unit in the same way the XX connector would interface if it would indeed fit? My problem is that I don't have an R1 connector with the wires to compare to. Are the + and - leads in this pic in line and closest to the top of the R/R? It looks that way but I want to be sure before I do it.

Thanks

rr_fitted.jpg

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So it's just the opposite of the XX in that regard but the same from side to side.

Thank you very much. I hope to do the deed tomorrow after work. Going for broke. No testing or twisting wires to start. Soldering the bastards on an plugging them in.

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If you want to test - just put the three wires in the bottom. Then with either a voltmeter or indicator light, fire the bike up and test the two other leads. The bike will run off the battery for a period of time - more than long enough for you to check that you've got the wires the right way around.

Once you've got it done, could you please takes some pics on the XX so I can add them to that page. The ones I have there are from the VTR fitment.

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I'd be happy to. Do you want a series of them or just installed? I curious though, I know the red is + and the green is - so what am I testing? My biggest problem would be if I put a + wire on the - terminal of the R/R wouldn't it? The R/R is not marked in any way so that would be a good possibility is I had not gotten help from you guys right? Forgive my ignorance, I don't really ever mess with electrical things.

BTW, I was at an R1 site today. They seem to have quite a bit of problems with their R/R. I assume it's still better than the Honda right? Say yes regradless, as I bought one. :)

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Well now THAT"S disturbing. So I switched to a R1 reg. for nothing?

What's the R1 site name?

With the monsoon season still in full swing in PA, I haven't got out much but so far thr R1 reg is doing fine. As soon as you take the RPMS off idle and I mean 1200 RPM, the headlight gets brighter. From what I remember, the XX reg needed more revs to make the headlight brighter.

Involute, how are you going to keep the wires from pulling out of the reg. from road bumps??

Did you get the reg. bolted to the subframe OK?

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http://www.r1-forum.com/

I had to do no mods to the R/R at all in order to get it to bolt on. It was close but it made it. One of the mounting holes was oblong so there was room to play. The connectors I have fit on pretty damn snug and I was going to use electrical tape to wrap everything together to the female end of the R/R to keep anything from pulling out. Sound OK? I don't think the R1 R/R was bought for nothing. I paid $63 for it new from a local bike shop. The local Honda dealer quoted me $190 for the XX R/R. I'm not sure how much the XX one would have been at the other place.

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Got it in boys! Voltage is back up to where it should be. I have pics for Mith to post. I don't have a site for photos or I'd do it. Thanks to all who helped. :bike:

So much for not working on the bike right before a trip.

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