ironmike Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 ... what components would you choose, and why..? I've been contemplating doing so, but I think I'd be well advised to duly consider the opinions of those who have more experience and wisdom in that arena. I know this may engender a disagreement or two, but spirited debate and speculative discourse are (and always have been) hallmarks of our "healthy" board community. Besides, I hope to learn something... :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 The only suspension mod I've done is my Penske rear shock. I absolutely love it and would recommend a Penske to anyone with an XX. Mine's an 8981 with adjustable rebound and compression damping. I also plan to get my forks reworked this winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 Aftermarket rear shock, definitely. Penske or Ohlins, and have it sprung according to your weight, etc. Get the forks reworked by an expert in the field, as well as changing the springs, again according to your weight. It is a night and day improvement over stock. Much more compliant over the rough stuff, but resists bottoming better when riding hard, as well as less brake dive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted November 27, 2004 Author Share Posted November 27, 2004 I'll most likely do the rear shock first... and there seems to be a preference for the Penske and Ohlins, but I'm not certain I understand why... or if one is preferable to the other. I've read the comments that Pug (Greece) made about WP shocks, as well.. anyone else have experience with them..? Are there other considerations besides performance, longevity (warranty), and cost..? I'm a reasonably competent wrench, so installation difficulty (if any) is not a weighty factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 if you weigh anything over 170#'s definitely do your springs up front. the right way is re-valving, new oil, and new springs. the simple, cheap, diy, for the biggest bang for the buck, is replacing the springs only. i'm 210#'s and went to a 1.05 springs only swap out. cost me about $100 if i remember correctly. cut the included spacers to an appropriate length as well according to the instructions because if you use the stock length spacers, you'll end up 'harleyed' with the front end higher than stock. if you get really into it, measure your sag on and off the rig and cut your spacers appropriate to the amount of sag that you would like. you'll immediately notice less nose dive on braking and a better sense of steering amongst many other improvements. bang for the buck, and ease of diy is what i go for :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 to change the springs out on the front, what all do you need? i.e. special tools, parts, oil ??? the reason i ask is i like to get everything i need before i start. nothing worse than getting into a job only to realize you need something and have to wait and order it. i have put together harley type forks but never a metric fork. the harley ones are pretty easy but i wasnt sure about the xx forks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 No special tools, assuming you have a socket or wrench for the fork cap. Just changing the springs is probably about a 20 minute job, not including figuring out preload- it may take a bit of dicking around to get your sag just right. Changing the oil while you're at it complicates it a bit, and would involve removing the forks (the way I do it, others have disagreed with me on this). You may need an impact wrench to remove/replace the drain bolt at the bottom of the forks, as the damper rod sometimes likes to spin around inside the tube. Or you could just turn them upside down to drain them. I prefer to dismantle them and clean everything up real good while I'm in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 assuming you have a socket yeh, what he said above, and it's a frickin big socket at that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 got the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 oh, ps, the manual calls for new o rings under the socket caps, just be careful with them and you're cool. 1 last point, careful threading the caps, some have been known to cross thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 I just take off the fender, front wheel, then take out the bottom bolts, that hold the cartridge, then take off the cap and and pull out the cartridge,using a rag to help control the mess. I have never had problem getting the bottom bolt out., with the cap on . I didn't get it in tightenough once and it leaked . I have since figure out how to get touque wrench on that bolt and have not had problems since. Ive had them out 3 times now , goes pretty smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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