voodooxx Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 i know what its from but how do i fix it. it surges with the motor. i have my radar detector hooked up with a powerlet outlet that is hooked directly to the battery. the detector is then plugged into my autocom system. if i unhook it the buzz goes away so i know its narrowed down to this. i tried using an isolator i got from the parts store but it didnt work. it was for car stereos. any ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 Try this first, or check with Autocom for shielded cords..... http://www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=...e1=submit&SRC=1 Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilisht2003 Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 i have my detector hooked the same way and same problem with my chatterbox. need to fix mine too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 thanks birdie xx. that looks like what i need. i know its coming in through the power cord not the audio cord. i have the cord to my mp3 player right next to the detector cord and no problems with it. the mp3 runs on batteries. i even tried moving them completely away from the bike and it sounds good until i connect power to the detector. will hit the local radio shack tomorrow. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 I fixed my buzz by having everything that connects to the autocom and is powered by the bike to have the same ground point. Buzz stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 2, 2004 Author Share Posted October 2, 2004 well i tried the ferrite choke from radio shack. did not work. tried clipping it on every cable still no luck. so tomorrow im gonna try using the common ground point idea. right now the radar and the autocom are directly grounded to the negative on the battery. i want to try using the frame instead. any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4fku Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 well i tried the ferrite choke from radio shack. did not work. tried clipping it on every cable still no luck. so tomorrow im gonna try using the common ground point idea. right now the radar and the autocom are directly grounded to the negative on the battery. i want to try using the frame instead. Â any other ideas? You do know how to properly install one of those right? I'm just asking because I have seen people install them incorrectly. You have to loop the cord around it for it to actually work. No just simply clamping in on the cable. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 2, 2004 Author Share Posted October 2, 2004 this one said to just clamp it on the wire. but i will try looping it in the morning. might as well try it since ive got it. thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 2, 2004 Author Share Posted October 2, 2004 tried looping the cable around the choke. still no luck. i also unhooked the the grounds from the battery and used a common frame ground. still nothing. i even tried using a common pwr not directly to the batt. still buzzing. i can live with it but id really like to try to fix it. any more ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4fku Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 I'll try to help you with a few questions. First off how is the power cable routed? I am assuming it only happens when the radar detector is plugged in and the system (intercom?) works normally when it is unplugged. If the power cable to the radar is routed on the top portion of the frame under the tank then it is most likely picking up the EMI from the coil packs. If it is routed below then possibly one of the generator wires. Try removing the detector and placing it on the seat and run short wires to the battery. Then plug it in the system. If the noise goes away then it was a cabling problem (power side). How is your audio cable routed? is it near any of the above? try the same with it and see if it goes away. Very rarely do you ever see a true ground loop fault. These are mostly with old Solid state devices. Newer devices have a high tolerance and usually dont give such a problem. You could try a bleeding capacitor. This capcitor (commonly called a filter capacitor, it bleeds off the AC ripple charge on a D.C. line (common in vehicles and bikes because your generating an A.C. current and then regulating/rectifying it to D.C.) Also Your regulator could be on its way south. Have you noticed any power surges lately? The later is doubtful as you stated the problem goes away when it is unplugged. Also you said you were first using the battery as your ground and power. This is best way for all electronic gear because the battery is itself a filtering capacitor by nature and a simple reulator. Hope this helps a little and keep us informed in your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 3, 2004 Author Share Posted October 3, 2004 lets see: okay the power cable to the detector runs over the top of the tank. i have a powerlet plug in my tankbag so the line runs from the battery to the bag then to the detector that is mounted just above the handlebars. the audio cord runs under the tank. i moved this around before with no change in the static. i have not moved the power cord around but i will try that. the power to the autocom and the autocom itself is under the seat. so the only cords running under the tank are the one for the detector and the mp3 player. i dont have any interferrence with just the mp3 player. it returns as soon as i connect pwr to the detector. i also have had no surges in pwr. this seems to be isolated to the detector. im kind of wondering if the detector itself is picking up the interference and transmitting it? maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdxx Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 My hunch is the interference is radiated from the detector and being detected by the autocom, rather than being distributed by the power circuit, so RF chokes in the power circuit would have no effect. The detector is probably compliant with FCC Part 15, which states that the device (1)"may not cause harmful interference", and that the device (2)"must accept any interference received, including any interference which may cause undesired operation." Welcome to Catch-22. Your most practical option may be to physically separate the autocom and the detector as much as possible. The RF generated is on the order of microvolts, and several inches of separation may make a considerable difference. If this isn't practical, then I'd recommend you try a different brand of detector. The best way to distribute power is directly from the battery, preferably through a switched relay and a dedicated fuse/circuit breaker, as previously described. 73 de Jim, kc4ncr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4fku Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 OK. Do some easy troubleshooting. Half step the problem. Hook some head phones to the radar detector where it sits. Does it have noise? If it does the problem is else where if no the problem is a bad audio cord. Place the detector on the seat aand route a new power cable to it. Place plug the audio up. If the problem goes away then it is the power cable or the physical location. Continue doing this until you have the problem to one specific item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilisht2003 Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 i messed with mine last night, the looping the wire in the choke didnt work, only have the detector and XM in my chatterbox and are both through the same power plug so its grounded to the same spot. moved the ground from the battery to the frame and still didnt help. if i leave the cord plugged into the chatterbox and touch it to the bike to a metel spot i can hear the tick not even through the detector. really would like to get this fixe!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 8, 2004 Author Share Posted October 8, 2004 nothing i did got rid of the buzz. so i cked the autocom website and they have an audio cord specifically for radar/gps that is run off the 12v system. so i ordered it. i will post if its works. from what i see in the pic is has some sort of choke? or isolator?. says it should cut out the interferance. kind of pricey but i thought id give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilisht2003 Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 bought ground loop isolator from radio shack and mine is fixed !!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 9, 2004 Author Share Posted October 9, 2004 whats the part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilisht2003 Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 not sure i just searched "ground loop isolator" on thier web site and found it then went to the store and asked for it and grabed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voodooxx Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 the cord i ordered from autocom worked. it solved the problem and it sounds good. it is the: isolated mono lead(2.5mm) part#173 thanks all for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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