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dogbone to use a 954 shock


R1dR3d

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You might be able to run an adjustable dogbone like I have. I've considered this mod as it makes sense to me. I haven't been able to get a hold of a 954/929 rear shock to measure it's length or install and check how long the dogbone needs to be.

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My dogbone cost me $129 from Schnitz racing. It's got a stainless threaded rod and the lower mount slides up and down this shaft. The lower mount is held in place by a locknut on each side. It's built pretty sturdy as the locknuts take a 15/16 inch wrench to adjust the lower mount. You have to press out the bearings out of your stock dogbone and install them into the adjustable link or buy new ones, unlike a lot of the aftermarket dogbones that use brass incerts instead of bearings. I'll take some measurements off of it and tell you the adjustability of it as far as length goes. You can adjust it shorter or longer than the stock dogbone. I use it for lowering my bird for dragracing and in 15 minutes I can have it at stock height or higher for better handling. Beats the hell out of the shock washers to raise it up. It's better than the 3 hole lowering links IMHO because you aren't set at any specific height. You can put it exactly where you want it.

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Another option you might consider is to make yourself some new plates for the suspension linkage. You know, the triangle pieces that the shock, swingarm, and dogbone bolt to. It would do the same thing as a different dogbone and probably easier and cheaper. You could put the bike up on the centerstand with something a 1/2" thick under the tire and measure up the distance between the stock dogbone mounting hole and where the dogbone actually is. You then make new side plates out of some 1/4" stainless keeping the distance the same with the 2 bolts that are still bolted up with the dogbone mount in a different location. This would be the same as a different length dogbone, but keep your stock bone. Might be an option and you wouldn't have to shim your shock 6mm either, being as the extra height is in the plate, not the shock.

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sounds like a good plan, I'd have to buy the 'new' shock first then take the bike to a shop that will fabricate the part.  I'll check on the cost of that work, can't be much over 50 dollars I'm guessing.

Have you ever priced machine work? This would be a "one time only" job, and you would be charged for all the development and setup time.

Also,

Changing the spacing of these mounting holes may also change the basic ratios between shock and wheel travel. This may seriously affect the spring rates needed for your bike. Unless you are prepared to do all the math necessary to recalculate the ratios, you will be forced to try different spring combinations in order to get your bike to work properly.

The proper length aftermarket shock with the correct spring rate may turn out to be a bargain.

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A lot of Suzuki TL-R and TL-S owners have been buying Bitubo shocks. You can get the same adjustment options on those as on Penske or Ohlins. The price is pretty reasonable. So far, I have not heard of any complaints.

Just a thought. I bought a Penske for my BlackBird, but am considering the Bitubo for my TL. The stock rotary shock that comes on the TL may actually be worse than the stock shock on the BlackBird. (but at least it is adjustable)

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Here is the US dealer.

U.S.A.

HERDAN CORPORATION

Route 61 Port Clinton, PA 19549

Ph 001-610-562-3155 Fax 001-610-562-5481

Contact Person: Mr. Herman Baver

The HERDAN web site sucks too. It may be worthwhile to give them a call and see if they can get a shock for the Bird. The Suzuki guys at www.tlplanet.com have put together group buys in the past. (Those guys group buy everything)

Replacements for the TL rotary shock are pretty hard to come by. I think the last group buy for Bitubo was through some parts dealer in San Diego.

FWIW, I'm not trying to drum up business for these guys. The Bitubo shocks are quite a bit less $$ than Penske or Ohlins, and the Suzuki guys have had no complaints that I am aware of.

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