bhanxx Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 here is the cut'n'paste i sent lukewarm this morning regarding my initial riding impression. Farther down is some tips for those deciding to do this mod so u don't have to go thru the same sh!t :roll:i did. this is based on a '02 model year. And finally, I put in the 6mm ride height spacers (3 washers) last night and got about 50 miles racked up since. Verdict: definitely worth the effort, turn-in definitely quicken requiring less counter-steering required, it more like rolling into the turn vs. pushing/sticking ‘er in there, lighter steering feel is also felt. It seems to transfer the weight bias toward the front so to me it was even more stable once u establish yer corner line (I always thought da bird wag it’s ass a bit thru corners). The wagging ass syndrome is virtually eliminated. Definitely raises ‘er ass up so ground clearance should improve and did stiffen ride up just a bit. Overall (my perspective again), she feels better balanced, lighter steering and smaller/lighter overall. I NOW know a few tips how to ease the installation considerably (I always like doing things the hard way 1st time, u learn a lot more that way), so if u decide to do it, let me know and I can help u. Don’t even think about doing 4 washers i gave u, just do 3 which is at the top of the viable range. *** TIPS *** :idea: #1: When pulling XX up on centerstand, make sure u have at least one 2x4 (or 2x6) under the footprints. Also try to position it so the floor is sloping away from the rear (like hang the rear tire over driveway while centerstand is on garage floor). This will give u enuf altitude to drop the rear wheel (attached shock via only the lower mounting bracket) so the upper shock mount (w vertical upright bolt thru frame cross member that is now already unbolted from shock) can drop thru clearing the top of the shock (pulled backed hard up against battery container). this is one f...ing tight fit. :idea: #2: To avoid above headaches, it has been mentioned u could slot the washers so to avoid about problem. that way u simply loosen top shock nut to create enuf space to insert washers and retighten. i didn't feel comfortable do that considering hp, cornering, bumps and stress a rear shock is put thru. plus it's a richer learning experience doing it the hard way. :idea: #3: Upon reassembly, use a hydraulic jack under swingarm to 'raise-n-hold' rear wheel assembly at proper height to align holes of top of shock w top shock mount to insert horizontal bolt thru and eventually coolant overflow thingy. leave vertical top shock mount nut quite loose giving u vertical play greatly assisting when wiggling horizontal bolt thru. :roll: we did this the hard way using none of the above learning a lot finally giving up and used our heads to create above technique. :idea: #4: the IXXRA site has some really good detailed instructions w good pics on their site showing how to do this (less my # :idea: #1 & #3). :idea: #5: while this can be done alone, having 2 certainly makes the task easier. the deinstall/reinstall of shock top mount battling tight spaces, battery trays and coolant overflow thingys benefits from more than 2 hands. A quick test ride and up to the frig to make a tall Captain Morgan w OJ, Fresca and touch RealLemon. Then to the front steps and gwak at da bird admiring another fine job done the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 I just did mine as well, I used a piece of 1/4" plate steel 2" by 1.5" (1/4" translates to 6.36mm). I drilled a hole slightly of center and cut a notch to the edge. Ended up with a nice slotted washer the same size more or less as the top of the shock where it contacts the frame. One piece seemed less likely to move around. Painted it for rust protection and stuck her in. My impressions were about the same. I had initially raised my forks but didn't like the ground clearance problem so I put them back stock and shimmed the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted May 14, 2003 Author Share Posted May 14, 2003 :roll: Dang, now i do feel really dumb :roll: . I thought about doing just that, using a 1/4" plate cut to a rectangle, but did NOT connect the dots cutting a notch in the 1/4" plate so u could simply slip it in by just loosening the top shock nut. There is no excuse for me cause i was aware of the notching concept. :grin: An atta boy for XX4me :!: That should be plenty stable and ez to do. The 3 washers i used were a 'strong' 1/4", so i bet i pushing 7mm pretty hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 I shimmed the rear of my 99XX with slotted washers last night. went smoother than I thought. Really haven't ridden it in the twisties since, but around town it seems more flickable. I was wondering if you had to adjust the headlight as mine seems a bit low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 Good question? I hadn't thought of that. Actually I haven't ridden at night since I made the adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlheine Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 Great write up! Just a quick question, but does anyone who has shimmed their rear shock run with Givis or Corbins, etc? Am wondering about the touring stability when raised... Also, any significant change when two-up? Sounds like a nice and simple mod, cheap too, and those are the best kind!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 Has anyone noticed increased pressure on their hands and arms after shimming the rear shock? I lengthened my Penske about a quarter inch. Now, the rear tire barely touches the pavement with the bike on the center stand. It may just be my imagination, but it seems like this puts more load on my hands and arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted May 15, 2003 Author Share Posted May 15, 2003 When i first rode 'er right after mod i noticed a very slight extra weight on wrists, and i emphasize very slight. By third ride i had forgotten about it. I do believe i did unconsciouly move a bit forward in the seat to compensate, thus reducing the reach a bit. There is no doubt there is more weight bias toward the front causing the feedback thru the front is more pronounced. I'm still hitting my boot heel on the seat as i mount while on sidestand. Definitely sharpens the handling nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX4me Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Like I said above I originally did the forks 6mm. Had problems with ground clearence, nasty scrape marks on lower fairing. Put the forks back to stock and shimmed the rear. Rode fairly aggressively thursday and liked the change alot, sharper handling and no scraping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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