DirtTorpedo Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Is there some trick to crimping these on to a wire? After a typical electrical mod I always have one or two come off the end of the wire within a few days. Am I just not squeezing enough? What a pain in the ass these things are. And they always wait to come loose AFTER you've put all the fairings and stuff back over them. It's like they know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hookman49 Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Do you have the right size connector for the wire size? Are you using a wire crimpper or just pliers? Might try stripping back the wire and then fold the end over and place the connector on the folded wire and recrimp. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 What he said. Also make sure you're crimping the metal and not just the plastic cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Solder and tape the wires. It won't come loose then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 get yerself some channellock 909 crimping pliers. they are the shiznizzle for solderless connectors. http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/2/pr...&Product_ID=114 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Butt conectors will let you down. Solder and heat shrink those wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 I was an electrician for better than 25 years, in a steel mill no less. Butt connectors (the crimpable type that you are talking about), make an eXXcellent connection when done properly. 1. Always use the right size connector for whatever size wire that you are using. I have on occasion, stripped off enough insulation to be able to fold the end of the wire back over itself, thus effectively doubling the size of the wire and making it fit into a connector that was too big. 2. Always use the proper crimping tool. T&B makes one, Klein Tools, and others. Make sure that if you are using an insulated butt connector that you use the section of the crimper that is made for insulated stuff. Otherwise, you can damage the plastic insulation on the butt connector, then you have to tape it too. 3. Make sure that when you are done with the "crimp" that you pull on the connection before putting things back together. Also, if the connection is going to be exposed to water, moisture, etc., buy some Scotch Brand 33+ electrical tape and do a good tape job on the connection. You wont be able to submerge the splice, but it will be mostly water-resistant for your purposes. 4. Solder connections cannot be beat, but are a lot more time consuming that the butt connector method. You have to make the call, based on what you are using it for. Hope this helps. PS. I started fantasizing about DBLXX while writing this post......probably because I kept mentioning "Butt Connections".... :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtTorpedo Posted July 17, 2004 Author Share Posted July 17, 2004 Thanks for the tips. Apparently, my problems weren't completely from my own bogus connections. I had hooked up a headlight modulater, and the symtoms were that the headlight would periodically go out - and stay out - then come back on several minutes later. (Much slower than the 8 flashes per second as advertised.) I completly pulled the modulater, and this was still happening. Then a VFR owner told me of a similar problem he once had with a bad starter switch. Next time my light went out, I tapped the starter, and it came right back on. So I guess I'll be replacing that. While searching the forum for related topics, I see you can also use the starter as a flash-to-pass. Cool, never knew that. And I've had a CBR for 9 years. Another side note - any opinions on headlight modulaters? Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccriderXX Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Speaking of butt connectors, Warchild tried some "Posi-Lock" connectors when he installed a LED light to his FJR. I am going to start using them. http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=42 http://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html I usually solder connections, but that is time consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 An alternative I like to use to electrical tape is liquid electrical tape. Just a couple of coats, it dries quickly, and you have a watertight seal. Much better seal, and longer lasting than regular tape, and it looks better, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 headlight modulator opinion: i facking LOVE it. i have a kisan that i got for $25 instead of the $100 they normally are. but, knowing what i know now, i would have paid the full $100 for it. i pop over a hill, i see brakelights and people moving to the right lane cuz they think i'm an emergency vehicle. i come up fast behind someone, they practically dive for the right lane. it seems to do a very good job to alert cagers to my presence and knocks them out of their air-conditioned bubble and back into the real world. two very enthusiastic thumbs up from the peeps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG BOY Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 It's called sodder. (spelling?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 "solder", moron.......... :roll: j/k :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 FYI. NEVER stretch electrical tape. Pull it tight, but do not stretch it. Stretching it will cause the tape to try and pull itself loose, especially when it gets hot. It will try to unwind off of whatever you have it wrapped around. The last wrap or two should be just pressed to the previous layers. An alternative I like to use to electrical tape is liquid electrical tape. That stuff WORKS!!! Nuff said. Just a friendly little hint. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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