wrgoudy

For what it's worth I'm just now replacing a cahin with 5000 miles on it with a new one and new sprockets at both ends. Bike has 46000 miles on the original sprockets, and I wrestled with the same issue regrding replacing a relatively fresh chain since I'm changing sprockets. My solution was to order a spare rivet link type master link for my existing chain and a new chain for the new sprockets. When the new chain finally goes, I'll reinstall the slightly used one since by that time at least the sprockets will be slightly worn in. If you consider this option, just make sure to cut the existing chain master link to remove it and the new link will replace it later. Bill

Have one I bought for my 2000 that's available for a reasonable price since I don't use it anymore. If interested send a PM. Bill

For what it's worth I got a maintenance free battery from Advance Autoparts for the XX for about $50-60.00 when it died at Ephrata last year (turned out it was the Stator that was bad). Don't remember the brand name, but it seems to be working and holding up just fine so far.

Pete, I put DP Pads on both ends in July of '04 (SDP124HH - front, & DP126 - Rear) that I got from Scott at Toy Tech. They weren't cheap, but work far better than whatever I had on before. On the minus side, the fronts are already down to 2B and will need replaced soon. I doubt I have 10K on them yet, but am not sure of the mileage since last July. I will use them again for what it's worth, as they're kind to the rotors and work well wet or dry. Bill

I tend to agree with Silverbird 1100 regarding something else going on here, as I've run 110 watts of auxilliary lighting, and during previous winters, an additional 150+watts of Gerbing heated gear with no problems until my stator finally died at 43K miles (Gloves/socks/pants/jacket). I replaced mine with an OEM stator from somewhere (not Ayers but a Honda Parts place) I found on this board for around $140.00 or so. Would check all connections for good continuity, but suspect maybe one part of the bridge rectifier/regulator may be shorted. Sure miss the old days when you could actually check the bridge diodes, as well as the isolation diode on the old style units. I also installed a SunPro Voltmeter after replacing the Stator just to monitor voltage. One problem that does occur at times is when voltage drops for whatever reason (rectifier/connections/etc.) current goes up accordingly (E=IR) which tends to overheat components. The manual calls for a charging voltage of <15.5 volts, while I generally see something closer to 14.5 volts max. One other check you might make is to read battery positive to ground on an AC scale on your test meter. This sometimes shows up a bad bridge rectifier loop, if shorted, by indicating an AC voltage being passed to the battery. I'm cleaning all electrical connectors and dressing them with dielectric grease while down for the winter in hopes of eliminating any other electrical gremlins before they show up.

You now want me to remove that protective coating I've been applying for the last several years? I'll at least give her the once over with a few "Scrubs" towellets and maybe a splash of wax where I can reach. I did check with Art again for his opinion, just because inquiring minds want to know, and I figured since he's been a shop mechanic for nearly 30 years on Yamaha/Suzuki/Kawasaki/Honda/Ducati/ and now Harley (gasp) he should have an idea or two regarding this issue. FWIW he's maintaining the books procedure is not how he would do the job, and that while you might get away with turning the motor over without tension on the chain, if even once it manages to jump a tooth on the sprocket due to a worn or out -of-spec chain, it isn't worth the chance. His procedure when you reinstall the tensioner is a little different too, in that he installs the tensioner as instructed in the book with regard to rotation/timing marks, then turns the engine backwards to push any remaining cam chain slack over to the intake side so the tensioner can eat it up. Oviously if the cam chain tensioner works from the exhaust side this would be reversed. An interesting side note: I once ran my XS1100 with the intake cam off by 6 teeth for six months before I realized it (without causing any damage as luckily I must have been off in the "right" direction). Was running a 1220cc high compression setup and somehow blew it when I slapped it together. The motor made monster torque and I didn't realize I had a problem until I reinstalled a working tachometer and discovered the motor was only reving to about 6000 rmp max.

The shop manual test results indicated my rectifier/regulator was bad, when in fact is was a bad stator that passed the shop manual test. Check the alternator output with the alternator disconnected (read between the three yellow wires) and you should get, if memory serves, at least 60-80 volts AC under no load at 5000 rpms or so. Mine put out about 8-13 volts, but passed all conductivity and ground tests using a multimeter. It was internally shorted between its' windings, but not to ground, as I could see once I removed the stator and inspected it.

Really appreciate the replies to this minor issue. Regarding: [The manual is written from an engineering perspective, not a real world perspective. Locking the CCT is merely a precursor to the post check step, which is to remove the camshaft.] That's what I'd assumed, except that the manual also says to rotate the cams several times after reinstallation before you remove the stopper tool. Probably just another example of translating Japanese engineering-speak over to English do-it speak. Just made me wonder. As I said in my earlier post, I agree turning the motor with the rear wheel is the way to go - its' worked fine for years and is by far the simplest way to do the job. I also agree with [My personal feeling is that if loosening the CCT will make a difference in valve clearance, I'll be buying a head...and maybe more in the foreseeable future.] probably is true. I love this part: This post is intended as an observation, opinion, and perhaps a different perspective. No intent to disparage, flame, or denounce another's integrity, intelligence, or sincerity in purpose exists in this missive. For a taped copy of this post, contact the manufacturer. All posts final. Void where prohibited. If you feel that you have read this post in error, return it in original packaging for immediate refund. I must take time to learn how to properly work with the Avatars, HTML, etc. one of these days. At any rate, thanks for the input and have a good day. Bill

Good to hear from you too Pete - I figured you'd likely be the one to reply. I do use the same technique to spin the motor - i.e. top cog and turn the wheel. Not to start an argument, but I can't buy the reasoning behind the "loosen the chain tension" to accomodate the oil clearance angle. I think the oil clearance will be so small (.0008" -.0029") that the chance the tensioned cam chain will make a meaningful difference to valve lash when loading one end of the cams is remote. I wouldn't bet on whether or not the chain is trying to jump crank timing either. A small slip in the wrong direction could be quite expensive if it does. I figure I'll continue checking clearance without releasing the chain tension, at least this time, while I do further research. For what it's worth, the wrenches at the local Honda shop have no idea either, way which was expected. (When I first got the bike it would wobble severly at 55mph if you took your hands off the bars. Took it back since it was under warranty and after they said they all do that, took it home and adjusted the steering head bearings. Haven't been back since). When I let Art read the shop manual directions without any prejudical prompting on my part, he came away with the same "wtf are they talking about" response that I had. It makes an interesting discussion point at any rate and I look forward to hearing from you again. I'm in the process of finally doing all those things I've put off for 48K miles - changing all fluids, cleaning all electrial connections and new dielectric lube, etc. Take care Bill

This question's probably been asked before, but if so I can't find it using Search. I'm getting ready to check valve clearance for the fourth time (I know it's not necessary - it wasn't at 12K/20K/30K either). Since I'm finishing my second week of no-smoking after 35years and am still a bit out-of-whack - some of you may know what I mean - I just wanted to confirm something that appears incorrect in the Shop Manual. As I read the procedure it basically has you removing all cam chain tension then spinning the motor over from the crankshaft, which seems exceedingly stupid to me. It also has you doing something similar after replacing any shims and the cams - i.e. turn the motor over several times then remove the cam chain tensioner stopper tool. As I recall, the first time I did the valve clearance check I followed the shop manual instructions without question or thought about what they said to do, until I got to the point where I started turning the motor over via the crankshaft and heard/felt the chain trying to jump on the crank gear. If I'm off-base please advise, if not please confirm. Thanks in advance.

My XX is injected, but on my old XS11 you couldn't pull the carbs out of the boots as much as you had to "bend" them out by grabbing them at the back and pushing straight down and up to break them loose, for what it's worth. Hope this idea helps.

Actually Deal's Gap was on the way back from NM. I did some riding in Arizona around Yuma when I was out to visit my daughter in 2001, but it was August and truly too hot to enjoy. Don't know where Devils Highway is though. Feel free to make your bike look clean using pictures of a dirty one if you want . As you said, the parts that show are generally fairly clean anyway, as are the important moving parts.

I clean my bike every winter when the snows too deep to ride. What you see as dirt I see as a protective coating that keeps the paint safe from errant road debris. Actually I ride three different bikes most of the time (was four until I smoked the old RZ on a top end run) and am not much for spit shining things. The picture of the centerstand mod were taken after a 4500 mile 5 1/2 day run to New Mexico via Deals Gap and I definetely wasn't in to cleaning at the time. Bill

They're out the door and should be in your other inbox. Bill

Redbird, I sent you a few photos this am regarding the centerstand and have had the same problem you're having with the lower radiator support. I added spacers beneath the support on the engine, rebent the support to come out between the two header pipes, and notched the inner bottom fairing and the sides to give the radiator clearance to the bodywork. Not very elegant, but as with the centerstand mod has worked fine for 40+K miles. Since I don't know how to add pictures to these e-mail replies yet, I'll send a few to you other e-mail address. Bill

Pete, Got the standard black ones since the colored ones run about $129 or so if I remember correctly, and from what I've read the color wears off the tread area fairly quickly anyway. I'm not so sure the Tomahawks are going to be so good in the rain, as I rode home from a friends the other day during a light shower and the bike seemed a little skitish, sort of like my F250 Powerstroke does when wearing BF Goodrich tires that are half worn out. I'm thinking it's due to the same reason as the truck, since the tread sipes stop short of the sidewalls and can't effectively channel water away unless you're riding straight and vertically.

First question that comes to mind are what, if any mods are on the bike - pipe, K&N, etc. I had one on my 00 for a few years and tried many maps and even some I modified myself. Could definately make more power and fill in torque gaps with modified maps (or some of the ones you can download from Dynojet). Recently took it off due to significantly reduced mileage no matter what map I ran. The difference in power produced was minor, but the improved driveability was significant. Best bet may be to have it dialed in on a Dynojet, although I've heard horror stories of the cost/benefit some have had with this approach.

Curious about how they synch the throttle bodies since my understanding is they are non-adjustable from the factory. I've synched the starter valves a few times (and would like to be able to synch the throttle bodies), but am not aware it can even be done without risking a major FUBAR. Have yet to need any valve shims in 42K miles for what it's worth.

For what it's worth, a friend has a new set of the Conti-Force tires on his T-595 and they handle great and seem to be holding up well. I'd mentioned in a reply to a different thread that I recently put a set of Tomahawk recaps on my XX (Sport Compound). The grip is phenomenol and assuming they last at least 4K miles without falling apart I'll probably stick with them. Cost per set delivered was about $147.00.

Recently put on a new X11 CCT I got from rockmeupto125. I didn't realize how "bad" the old one must have been as the motor is much quieter, smoother, etc. I also adjusted the lash in the counterbalancers (for the second time in 42K miles) at the same time, but the effect of the new CCT was still obvious.

For what it's worth I can also highly recommend the DP (Dunlop) HH pads for the XX. A friend I've known for years (a machinist that works as a mechanic at a local dealership) recommended the DP HH Pads as he was really impressed with the way they work on his Supermotard. I'd read all the comments on this site about how good the EBC HH pads are, but after learning that the "book" calls for the same EBC pads front and rear, I decided to take a chance on the DP HH Pads as they use a different compound for the rear. I assume that maybe they'd allowed for the linked brakes in their pad selection for the rear. All I can say after a 125 mile breakin is they are phenomenol. Good initial bite and I'm pretty sure I could lock up the front wheel with one or two fingers if I wanted to. Will probably find out once the rain stops. The rear has excellent feel that improves stopping ability without so much concern about lockup. I also put on a set of Tomahawk retreads (sport compund) at the same time. I'm really impressed with them from a grip standpoint when compared to the Bridgestone 010 and 020's I've run for 42K miles. Price is right (about $147.00 delivered) and if they hold up for at least 4K miles I'll probably keep on running them.

The best one I've found is the Sigma Sport BC800. If memory serves it reads to 188mph and maintains average speed, average moving time, max speed and has a clock. I epoxied a small round magnet into the right front brake disc and made an aluminum pickup mount anchored to the front fender mounting bolt beneath the fender. Others may have found other newer models, but I've had excellent luck with this version. I use a Sigma BC401 on my old XS1100 turbo, but it doesn't read as high and has no clock, but does have the same level of accuracy once you've plugged in the actual length of travel acheived with one tire rotation. As a side note, be aware that the wire from the pickup must be routed carefully. On the Yamaha every time I'd start the bike the speedo would reset, although if simply pushed while not running it would read and work fine. It turned out it was picking up crosstalk from being routed too near to the wire harness that fed the electronic tach on the bike which really confused it.

Probably been mentioned many times somewhere here, but about $29.00 will get you a Sigma bicycle digital speedo that can easily be calibrated to I think 1/10th mph accuracy. I have them on all my scooters and once set up are quite nice since they record a variety of data, including actual max speed, etc. They always track to within 1mph of the radar signs they have around here in the construction zones too, for what it's worth.

For what it's worth I've been using only Mobil 1 15-50 auto oil in all my bikes for years with no problems related to clutch slipping, wear, etc. I've put about 39K on my 2000XX, 28K on a '99 T-595 Triumph, 14K on my '93 Guzzi Daytona, and 26K on my old '79XS1100 Turbo since rebuild. I've read many reports, some of which contradict each other about the additives, etc., however the internals of all these motors don't exhibit any significant wear patterns. Oil changes do happen around 3K on the watercooled and 1.5K on the air cooled motors, which I think is the real ticket to long life though no matter what oil you run. The price for the bike specific oils is ridiculous to say the least and I don't see any justification for the additional expense in my experience. Just my humble opinion. Happy hunting.

Just replyed as you suggested. Thanks, since I obviously didn't read his instructions above that say to do just that. Oh well.