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JRA

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Everything posted by JRA

  1. I'm actually builing a copy of something my wife liked. There is a rabbet that runs all the way around the bottom of the drawer to allow the slide for the drawer to be recessed so that the drawer front is flush with the frame (it will be inset). If I had centered the pins on the dovetails it would have left a very small pin at the top and the bottom which wouldn't have allowed me to make the rabbet at the bottom and the pin would probably break off . It's hard to explain but I really thought it through and that was the only way to do it with the jig I have. Here is a pic of a drawer that isn't as deep. I was able to line the pins up differently on these so they are more centered. Here is some of the built in work I did in a custom home. All of this is built out of rough sawn poplar and birch and painted. The photos are from a 35mm camera and are of poor quality. It's hard to take good shots inside of a house of large pieces of work. I didn't even try on the last job. This is in the master bed room and the bed actually slides in between the cabinets. There is over head lighting above that is concealed behind the soffit for reading. It looks a little odd in this photo, but if you could see it with the bed in place (there is a really nice tray ceiling above the bed that extends up to twelve feet and has three different layers of built up crown moulding) and all of the decoration in the room it really looks good. This is in the great room. The cabinet to the right holds a tv swivel that pulls out. It's hard to see that it's this big but it has like a 45" TV inside of it. The cabinet on the left holds the whole house stereo system. It's a killer stereo. The owner paid about ten grand for it. There are also multiple storage areas for DVD's, CD's, VHS tapes etc.. The carving over the mantel belongs to the owners. I had nothing to do with that but with all of the other decoration that's in the room now, it looks really good too. This is an ET center in the master bedroom. It holds a TV on a swivel/pullout, plus doubles as built in furniture. This is a photo of part of the master closet. Another part of the master closet
  2. I was just browsing through the forum and noticed the thread where Carlos was asking questions about wood species, different thicknesses, and terminology. It got me to wondering who else is interested in this stuff and what types of things you like to build. Here is a project I've been working on for Lesley's birthday. They are going to be end tables for our bedroom. They are built from solid cherry and will be finished to match the other cherry furniture we have. I build quite a bit of cabinets and such (all built in work like ET centers, bookcases, custom closets etc..) for the custom homes I build for a living. Anyway here are the unfinished end tables Here's a not so great picture of one of the drawers showing the dovetails Here is some of the left over lumber I have from various projects. It includes oak, cherry, poplar, sort maple, birch etc. I build all of my projects from rough sawn boards which I plane. That's 6/4 oak in the left front. The must have machine for any serious woodworker. It's a triple router table. This enables me to set up all the bits I need for making raised panels at one time. And finally another must have machine for a serious wood worker. It's a drum sander (with a dust collector to the right). This sands flat my glued up panels wich I use in cabinet doors or as decorative end or front panels. It'll sand a panel up to 32" in width.
  3. I hope he's a good friend (and not just your insurance agent) who's giving you honest advice. Insurance claims for water damage are very common and happen all of the time. I can't imagine that a prospective buyer would be put off by a claim for a broken pipe if the damage had been repaired. That's what insurance is for, I can see not claiming $500 or maybe $1000, but $5000 to $10,000? That's crazy. Especially on a home built on a slab, damage is gonna be limited since the majority of damage happens to floors. Repairs would consist of only the floor covering itself and not the subfloor, much easier to repair than a conventional floor system.
  4. I don't know how things work out there but an insurance claim wouldn't show up anywhere during the sale of a property. It would be your responsibility as the seller to disclose any existing problems but not any prior problems that had been fixed. Other than that, the majority of buyers now are paying to have a third party home inspection done by a licensed company to check for problems that you might not be aware of. Mold has become such an issue lately here in our public school buildings that I'd bet it won't be long before the home inspectors start scientifically testing for that too. Believe it of not, it's very common on the inside of ridged HVAC duct work (the kind that's insulated on the inside) and above suspended ceilings that might have gotten wet in the past. It thrives on a damp/dark enviroment, if you can eliminate that you can get rid of it. I don't blame you for not wanting to tear out the tub/tile but you can take out the rest of the sheetrock pretty easily and then just replace it. Good luck Carlos.
  5. Exactly, bleach should work. If you have the time and money just gut the bathroom and start over. You can make it better than it was before the flood and fix everything in the process. Insurance should go a long way toward the remodeling.
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