Red J

Such is the reason I want it on the left. If I have to fiddle with anything, I'd rather it be on the left. My harness plugs into the vest on the left as well, I'm not sure how I'd like it crossing over in my lap, I ride fairly close to the tank, esp. in winter. Plus, I've already punched a hole in the left side for the grip heat-troller, so I'm inclined to just put another hole in that one. I saw your post in that earlier thread, and wanted to expand on it. Thanks for your post and photo here. This location may work for me, but my other bike I had figured on using a straight cable, I may need to look at it and see if I can go with a right-angle connector there. If I can, this may work well for me. I also plan on wiring a master switch for this circuit eventually, doing away with the switch in the wire. They do look very robust, I'm pleased with them just sitting in my hand. The amperage rating is 16A @ 12VDC. My Widder setup is 55w (35 vest + 20 gloves) (so, 5A) My tankbag is going to have cellphone charger, iPod power (probably 2.5A fused circuit) Not sure what else, but this would leave me with surplus power. I had not thought of this, but it certainly has merit, thanks for the idea. The main issue is that I don't run just one tankbag, but for powered application, I suppose I could do that. --- Thanks guys, some good ideas here.

I ordered a few female receptacles for the blackbird, and am now deciding where to install. Powerlet: Powerlet with male plug: I'm wanting to use one for powering my tankbag or for general use while moving, which I've all but decided to put in the left panel flanking the tank. The other one, which would be for heated gear, is more troubling. I've got a chain oiler control which is in the left side kick panel. I had thought of putting the powerlet there and moving the flow adjuster up a bit, but with the hinged door of the powerlet, single handed operation may not be too easy. The other option is to place it near the pillion's left foot peg, but I'm not hot on the idea of having to reach back there to fiddle with it. Being a powerlet, it's pretty secure, but there's always the chance that you'll have to replug it while moving and it may not be easy to stop to fiddle with it. A third option is to put it by the other one, on the left panel adjacent the tank. Easy to see, easy to access, but it's further forward than ideal for heated gear. I could just install one for now and try it with heat (my tankbag isn't wired as of yet) and see how it works. Thoughts? Maybe I'm overthinking this. I just don't wanna drill holes everywhere, and I'd like to get it right the first time.

I may snag them anyway, on the off chance I find an RR to buy.

I've got a friend who has a set of 954 OZ wheels for sale. What are the odds I can fit these to my 97 blackbird? J.

TSR sold some, discontinued. 321ignition.co.uk sold one, not sure if you can get, but you may be able to. There are alternate methods of locking the front fork master, using the front fork master and some hardware.

I saw a brand new in the wrapper XX regulator, 97-98, with fins on ebay the other day: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=35594 Same part number as the one in the fiche. It would appear that Honda at some point has revised the 97-98 XX's R/R. Just so's you know. J.

I read that, too. They're not the same as XX bars, and I don't know if that's what's throwing him off. Maybe he never put them on. Or they could be 98-01 VFR bars (look similar) which don't fit (second hand info). Taking a chance for sure.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=21236&hl=cash Some pictures in that thread, of VFR bars on my XX. IMO, they're the bars they should have shipped the XX with. --- I concur that those bars on the ebay auction look to be 2002+ VFR bars. Can't guarantee it, but I'm betting they are.

Why not run the FJR on LD events, Dale? Seems to me to be the ticket, but I don't own one, so what do I know?

Beg to differ. Time consuming, definitely. But the XX's motor comes out very easily. J.

You don't? Really easy to do the valve adjustment with the frame out of the way. Some guys pull the forks to change their oil, some guys remove the engine to adjust the valves.

I'm jealous. Mine needed it at 27k.

Definitely sell that POS. In the interest of safety I would be willing to take it off your hands for say $100. Whatever, man. Opportunist! I can't believe that someone on this forum would actually stoop to this level. I'll go 150

Update: I have ordered them from the fabricator. He gave me a two week delivery (he's busy). I will need another two weeks on that, to get pockets drilled and anodizing. It may happen sooner, but I'd rather estimate long and beat it, than estimate short and have people bitching. So, will be around a month before I am ready to ship. Will post a For Sale thread about three weeks from now, and begin accepting money. Cheers, J.

Vampire tap (Scotch-lok) off the taillight power to trigger a master relay works well. My setup is similar.

IMO, buying a new pump is indeed insurance, but if there was no oil to pull, a new pump won't matter. I don't recall if the XX manual has a pump inspection section, but if it does, and it checks out okay, I'd not worry about that. Inspection and cleaning of the pickup system in general should be done. Inspection and cleaning of the supply path should also be done, but this should all be done on any teardown, IMO. PR dude: Take pictures of the crank and call/e-mail Falicon to see what it would cost to repair. This will surely be cheaper than a new crankshaft from Honda. If you want, I have a crank with one rod journal damaged only, which would probably be cheaper to fix than yours. Is your rod indeed fucked, or is it just the bearings/crank? Download the manual on this site, and start checking out the inspections. IMO, you should run thru the entire motor section for teardown and rebuild. Have you done rebuilds like this before? That entire motor will need to be disassembled and cleaned...

IIRC, oil pressure. It'll kill anything.

I would buy bearings new. They're expensive, but I'd buy them new. I have a set of connecting rods, I would sell one or all. I also have a crankshaft, but one rod journal needs to be repaired. Falicon can do it, but it costs. If someone has a good crank, or a good motor, that would be cheaper. J.

Ohlins.

Who, if you don't mind me asking?

I'm still in. Do you prefer Pay-Pal or hot-ass latinos? 40 dollars = how many hot-ass latinos? Three. No, four. J.

Not available any longer, not new, anyway. Consisted of new triples. Delinking is required, as you'll use RC front calipers (though delinking the rear is cake). xrdracer has it on his red bird.

Stop it. You fuckers are making me blush. Thanks to Redbird for fielding answers. He's spot on, on anything he's said. In this thread. Before this post. J.

I will post a new thread, reply with the link here, and PM people. If you've posted in this thread or PM'd me requesting to be on the list, I will contact you. Thanks! J.

True, a handful of ways to accomplish the same thing (hell, you could use corks) but IMO, the plates are the cleanest way to declutter the area and rid yourself of the pair system. Most expensive, true. If anyone would rather do the Rogue method instead of buying the plates and decline the opportunity to buy the parts, I understand. If anyone wants to try the triple cap method, PM me and I'll send you the caps to try out. I'll even send spares, so that you can replace them when they dry rot.