Suf Daddy
-
Posts
436 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Suf Daddy
-
-
I'm wondering if the Master Cylinder has a leak at the end of the piston where the lever attaches. TINY bubbles come up from the piston area under the resevior, once and a while.....
I've gravity drained, cleaned and put ~14oz of new fluid through the clutch resevior.
I've bled the system by using a clear hose on the
bleeder screw.
Pull the clutch lever, Hold in........open slave bleeder screw, watch fluid come out, close bleeder, then release clutch lever.
Do again and again and again..more than 14 oz worth over 3 attempts.
No clutch action.
Amount of brake fluid discharged varies on bleed attempt.
In other words, sometimes a little comes out and others its 3x more fliud in the clear line.
Any BTDT on what I'm doing wrong?
No Mity Vac here. Thinking of a reverse bleed somehow.
-Suf Daddy
-
The two sized Bob Villa ones didn't fit.
Take the fairings off and put the bike on a stand and they may fit.
I had to go with the Honda filter wrench (photo at link below)
so it would JUST clear the tight space.
-Suf Daddy
http://www.quattro123.com/OilChangeandFilters.htm
You can use a Strap Wrench from Sears plus you can use it around the house also.
-
Ummmm I bought the filter wrench. Sheepish Suf Daddy.
Look here:
http://www.quattro123.com/OilChangeandFilters.htm Scroll down..........
I couldn't get the $5 wrench Warchild referenced. Maybe it was parts clerk BS. "that number doesn't come up............"
Part number: 15010 - MW0 - 000.
-Suf Daddy
Big fucking channel locks.Ditto!!!
-
I haven't done it yet, but I had the rear wheel off and had to replace it with the brake caliper there. (Helped with alignment)
Anyway:
Standing behind the bike, The rear brake pad leading edge has a prong that will slide along the caliper holder/carrier and then by thumb pressure "click" into a recessed slot or place.
My guess will be the two slotted (standard looking screw driver) pins will come out allowing you to remove the pads..........
Grease the pins if the service manual says so. Hi temp brake grease.
Polish the pistons and push back in with a C clamp or so.
They look straight forward.
I'll do mine later, take pictures and post a how to BTDT web page. I'll host it.
-Suf Daddy quattro123.com
-
I figured it was binary. Guessing its 69 too.
But can you clarify what each field or digit means?
I'd guess like roman numerals ten ten one less than ten, but Binary is on and off. 0 or 1, so does each digit build on a square? 0,1,2,4,16,256
Hookers?
-Suf Daddy who just torqued his to 69 last night............Ready to test ride!
01000101 -
I posted some web info and related bike fixes I've done in the hopes it will help someone in the future.
I need some permission to link here to cbr1100xx.org and to a few people whose photos I put on the site.
Since I just put it up today, I'm asking here (and now) because I don't know whose photos they are and I've had no place to post photos in the past to ask.
http://www.quattro123.com/AirFilter.htm
(The SILVER bird with its tank up photo)
.......the other one is the rectifier fix (Which I found out to be Justin's:
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html )
Thanks and if you have a fix w/ small photos you'd like to post I can host some of them.
-Suf Daddy
-
I got some valuable info from Warchild too.
-Suf Daddy
-
$~70 at my Honda shop. Did I get the right battery?
I even had to put the electrolyte in myself.
-Suf Daddy
insttead of $170 for the new style) and it has worked great since.I paid $126 for mine (full price Honda dealer), so your dealer may have some expalining to do.
Hugo
-
The first page at cbr1100xx.org
Click up top Info/FAQ
Go left and scroll down to Oil change
or PM me w/a e-mail account that can handle a good size file, and I'll send you a web page with photos I did.
-Suf Daddy
-
Just did this myself yesterday.
Although I can't get the Masterlink "riveted" (pin flared to hold link permanently) I got it all photographed for the archives.
DID ZVM 50/530: Rivet Master linkcut down to 110 links.
Dremel Cut off wheel on old chain
Hack sawed new one (I'll learn)
MOST INTERESTING tip:
I had no chain breaker available, but I ground off the rivet head and was going to hammer/punch the pin out.
My brother had a craftsman (SEARS) nut breaker.
The sharp point was removable, so I could get the chain in it and use the point to press out the pin just like a real chain tool.
Like I said pressing on the master link is another story (C clamp) to roll the bike around. Have a shop flare out the pin to finish the deal.
WhiteBuffaloRacing.com
Grease the Master Link O rings....
-Suf Daddy
-
New to me @ 29K:
Rattle and a metalic clunk like the friction of the idling engine was torquing the chain/sprocket.
Changed the BLACK oil out and new filter and she's never done it since.
It was 40-30 degrees out when it did it. No more cold or warm.
-Suf Daddy
-
No better way to trick a guy into crotch watching..........
Thanks.
-Suf Daddy
-
Not to be a Nooobie and just ask, I searched the "archives".
Search function up top of the page.
BAS
Bank Angle Sensor.
and while your at it, next time in Barcelona, go to the pawn shops and look for my STOLEN handycam................
:pissedfingers:
-Suf Daddy
-
Glad you made it. Now those two daughters on "too close for comfort" were hotties. But that kid.............the :blowjob: Monroe Ficus guy.
You sure he wasn't driving the truck and helping you "shake that one off?"
LOL
http://www.tvtome.com/tvtome/servlet/Perso...0/JM_J_Bullock/
J/K - Suf Daddy
Had a close call last night that definitely excercised my sphincter muscle. There I was, riding down one of the twisties on the way home at dusk. I enter one of the sharper curves in the road that is somewhat blind due to the long grass on the shoulder (drop-off) and dense woods just outside that. About half way through the curve a huge f'n deer lies dead, virtually blocking the entire lane. To make things worse, there's a truck in the oncoming lane. In a rare coincidence of common sense and courtesy, the oncoming truck obviously sees the impending conflict, hits the brakes and pulls right as much as possible, giving me enough room to miss the head and dive back into the lane. Afterwards, I stopped and helped the other driver clear the deer from the road. He must have thought I looked odd, walking over with the seat sucked up my arse. -
I'm bummed I didn't pick up on this before now.
With all the crossreferencing on the box and the SPECIFIC instructions to Kneedraggers.com about my application I ordered a new ZVM from White Buffalo Racing. I'll sell the cut down 110 and riveted link, (530 VM - up to "1000cc's") on Ebay.com
Now I have 3 ZVM (ZJ) master links and a ZVM cahin on the way.
At least I'll feel safer and if I ever sell, I'll be doing both owners a favor by putting the correct application chain on.
-Suf Daddy
-
I'm bummed I didn't pick up on this before now.
With all the crossreferencing on the box and the SPECIFIC instructions to Kneedraggers.com about my application I ordered a new ZVM from White Buffalo Racing. I'll sell the cut down 110 and riveted link, (530 VM - up to "1000cc's") on Ebay.com
Now I have 3 ZVM (ZJ) master links and a ZVM cahin on the way.
-Suf Daddy
-
Did I get the wrong (rivet) Master Link?
I closely looked at the chain links I had dropped from the 120 link chain I bought. They say 50 VM on the side of the links.
So I check the (from memory) DID ZVM 530 chain master link I just ordered and now is in my hands and the link kit says 50 ZVM (ZJ) on it.........
but they don't seem to "go together", on the 50 VM chain I have , like they should.
So I'm looking at the Invoice for the chain, It says:
DID VM series Premium X-Ring - 530 VM.
So am I looking for a different MAster link again?
How did I screw the pooch here?
Will the 50VM chain be right for the 'bird?
Hookers?
-Suf Daddy
-
MAybe I did the same thing???????????????
I closely looked at the chain links I had dropped from the 120 link chain I bought. They say 50 VM on the side of the links.
So I check the (from memory) DID ZVM 530 chain master link I just ordered and the link kit says 50 ZVM (ZJ).........
but they don't seem to "go together", on the 50 VM chain I have , like they should.
So I'm looking at the Invoice for the chain, It says:
DID VM series Premium X-Ring - 530 VM.
So am I looking for a different MAster link again?
How did I screw the pooch here?
-Suf Daddy
-
I went aftermarket on the sprockets. Vortex
From Kneedraggers.com
rear 45T $52
Front 17T $26
DID 530VM $124 for $210 w/shipping
FWIW: @ 29K: The front oem looking sprocket had little to NO wear, The rear probably was still good. Chain?.... a bind and stretched way past the adjustment settings. Thinking original but cann't confirm.
-
I'm convinced the vibration/surging? came from the chain.
After disassembly last week the chain, when the rear tire was hand spun, had a bind in it in one small location. The rest of the chain "cycled" smoothly. It would "cling" to the rear sprocket when coming around to return to the front sprocket. Interestingly no bind when going around the front sprocket.................. Hmmmmmmmmmmm.
Maybe lubing the chain could have fixed it but this chain was STRETCHED far beyond the adjustment limits on the swingarm.
New Chains and sprockets (and tires) and I'll be good as new.
Thanks for your inputs. The chian was the noticable item out of order here. (two months later)
-Suf Daddy
-
DAMN: Mykl, Demon and Furbird.....Thanks!
Grind off the Master link and redo after install correct?
OR drop the swing arm...............
Any other BTDT's?
-Suf Daddy
-
Thank you CBR RR XX CESS and :poke: Pete in PA. .....read the manual....LOL. and Rock:
at 47 ft lbs the sprocket didn't warrant air tools. The service manual says wheel on, in sixth gear and brake on. So I figure the chain is the key (Thank God I didn't cut it off - which makes my NEXT problem - see CHAIN in garage posts-) so I figured out the shaft rotation so I don't torque the motor in reverse........ I did Shock TAP the bolt head with a hammer. (okay, it WAS a pipe wrench....I said TAP damn it.)
Then got out of my problem by wrapping the chain and the swingarm in a protective strap, then "C" clamping the chain to the swingarm to keep the sprocket/chain from turning. I went for first gear (easiest) now I'm proud of myself, for a minute.
MORE: see my Chain thread started while I thumb through the DAMN service book. - Suf Daddy
HOW do I get the front sprocket off?
From the sounds of it you have the fairing off. And you don't have air tools.
Put the engine in 1st gear.
Socket, extension, and breaker bar on the "special bolt" that holds the sprocket. Put a little counterclockwise tension on it, then have somebody hit the bar with a hammer. The shock should break it free.
If that doesn't work, suck it up, throw the wheel and chain on, and place a wooden bar across the spoke and the swingarm to lock the rear. You don't have to mess with getting the rear caliper back on, or the chain tight...it's only going to pull on one side...you just need a little help.
Slave rod has crud/rust mid way on it, should I pull it out and clean it off?Yes, with the fairing off it pulls right out. Scrape the gunk off, grease it slightly, and slide it back in.
-
How does the chain go on?
Building on the clutch slave thread....
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9950
How does the chain go on? I got mine down to 110 links (shop). Now its continuous so................................
Swing arm disassembly???????????? Any farther and I'll have parted out the bike. :cry: Boy am I feeling dumb.
Front sprocket looked fine, rear okay, if the chain wasn't stretched like taffy I'd reuse everything..........
-Suf Daddy
-
Now that things are apart:
HOW do I get the front sprocket off? Enginee's in gear but with the chain swap and the rear wheel off, no way to brake the rear wheel in gear and break it free.
Do I have to put the rear BACK on and redo thing just to undo this front sprocket?
Slave rod has crud/rust mid way on it, should I pull it out and clean it off?
TIA
-Suf Daddy
Clutch Bleed HELP
in The Garage
Posted
I'm liking this idea........
I put the clear hose from the slave bleeder STRAIGHT up to the handle bars. Therefore, I had a liquid seal around the screw and lifted a good amount of fluid straight up like a mercury thermometer.
Any other tips?
Thanks guys - Suf Daddy
before: