silverbird1100

Anyone else happy with Shell 5W40?

I've been debating a Mobil 1 switch for years and I was about to do it, glad I didn't. Been using Bel Ray dino since I got it 21,000 miles ago. I'm surspised to hear the Shell doesn't shift that well :cry: There's no way I'm paying $10 a quart for oil, I use Castrol GTX in my 600RR track bike and change it every 100 miles and wondering if I'll just put it in my XX :???: I'm so sick of wasting money on oil that won't make any difference when I stop riding it. I forget where the link is but GTX out performed the bel Ray I'm using for 1/2 the price and a fraction of synthetic anything now that Mobil might crap out on us. I seriously doubt a motor an incredible as ours is going to have any problems with cheap car oil.

I knew that was a bad idea. It was IMHO after all I didn't mean to start anything. So what about Shell Rotella? Would that be a suitable sustitute? Seems like it's basically the same if not better and they make a 10W40, which is O.K, right?

Aaaahh, another loss from winless war. (Sorry righty's) JMHO

Some assmunch sold me a bottle of 15wt too for my 900RR :evil:

I was using the 5wt ultra slick which seems like water so I mixed it 50/50 Bel Ray 7wt. Seems more consistant especially since my springs are slightly under sprung.

I looked into the Race Tech spring rate mystery. I have RT .90's in my RR and they measured to be exactly .918 on BOTH. Personally, I've never heard anyting from Traxxion that didn't directly benefit their company. Not that I wouldn't do the same thing.

I weigh about 170 w/gear and often carry lots of luggage. I have the .95's with 10 extra mm of oil. For me personally, the more wieght you can transfer to the front while entering the corner the better. I don't use the brakes, just bank her over and scrub the speed off. If you were a mad man and like to rush like hell up to the corner then brake like hell, pussyfoot through the corner and gas it up on the exit get the 1.0's for sure. Spring rates for the STREET are more personal, unlike a track bike where you have less room to play around with.

I didn't ask about cupping but if it comes from the tire flexing more than it should under load then I'd say yes.

I recently e-mailed Dunlop about how altitude plays a role in tire pressure. He said for every 1000ft, 1 psi can be affected. Conditions will obviously vary but I've always wondered why one guy can get a tire to last for 11,000 and the other bike is showing the threads at 4500. Say you were to set your pressure at 6000ft, then ride down to Vegas or into the Sacramento valley, your 5-6 psi low in very hots temps and usually at very high sustained speeds. D220's make me wet for the first 2000miles but I wonder if looking after the pressures under specific circumstances would make them last longer? Also, this is not just about Dunlop's, but all tires.

I'll take it to get it tested if I need to but I fully charged it, and it stayed at 12.86 for a few hours, than almost 48 hours later it's now at 12.7. It stay at 12.74 for a while but overnight went to 12.7. How much is need to get a strong start?

Well, the night before the stator completely died, I was able to get a weak start. I bump started it all the way home and and had just enough juice left for the bike to run. It was sputtering for last hour while decending :???: :???: :???: Since then it's worked fine but I have a huge trip coming up this year and although extremely low in funds, trying to do some preventative maintence.

I charged it at 2amps for a few hours and it wouldn't go any higher than 13.1. 12 hours later it's at 12.4 but holding fairly steady. It used to stay at 12.85 for weeks. It's an interstate that had a very bad first 2 days use. I got it to get me home after my stator went bad. I was running it without a charge for probably 12 hours the first day I had it :???:

Pirelli has a nw sport-touring tire coming out, but I fear it will be just like the Z6 that lasts for 4000mi under stress. If not, it looks really good.

I have 21,000 miles and have never checked them. I plan on doing another 8-9000 this year, then adjust them. Should I do it now? I was under the impression Honda's and especially this motor didn't need to much looking after... :???:

O.K., you know that saying the simplest answer is usually the solution? It was a combination of things. Having a third person helps and my top out mark was a little high. When the bike is on the center stand vs off the stand and pulling up on the grab rail until it stops moving yields about an 1/8 difference. Then I used a 6 inch ruler with a toothpick taped to the end to get a better measurment of the spring length. Before, it was just too long I guess. With the spring about 5.4 inches I can get very reasonable sag numbers. It ain't pretty, but it will have to be good enough. As far as the top rubbing on the bike, the shock does float around in there just fine so I just don't have the time or energy or money to worry about it, I just spent $200 on the spring and service when I could have gotten a new one for $550. So anyway, thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.

There is no clearance up top, that really worries me... :???: Everything has fit exactly the same all 5 times I've had it out, I'm positive it's installed right. Penske charged me $90+11for shipping plus the 10 I had to pay to get it there. The second time I had a local guy that gold valved my 600RR shock and I really like him. Super professional and very clean garage. He charged me $95 and it was done in the same day. All for nothing if I need a new shock, at least I already have the spring :roll:

The shock rubs a little at the very top, the gold rounded area. The whole thing started when I foolishly asked for a very soft set-up because I like a very plush ride. When I got it, I never checked the sag and went by feel. It felt soft so I just shrugged my shoulders and said "oh well that's what I asked for" Last year I sent it to Penske for an oil and seal and they had to replace an unusual part BU-10DU06 if you have a manual, a bushing below the compression stack. I had them stiffened up the valving, but didn't see anything that made them wonder if it was the wrong shock, or maybe he wasn't looking. I'll call Penske in Monday, but I've never seen a part number, does it have one?

Oh man, I don't even want to think about it being the wrong shock. I've been riding on it for 20,000 miles. I got it from Lindemann and they have some real dipshits over there. The bike is at my parents house so I can't get the dimensions for another day or so. Does the top of your shock rub slightly on the frame, enough to make a rubbing mark? Other than that it fits fine but hell, what do I know. If it fits in there, it should be able to hold the bike up, right?

I had virutally the same results with both 950 and 1000 lb springs. I thought the 950 was the bad one but when I installed the new 1000 I just couldn't believe it.

That sounds about the same as mine, 5.5inches. Have you changed your ride height? I have about 1.2 in of threads showing above the collar. I can't find anything about the pre-load in my manual, but I remember a Penske guy telling me 5" is about a much as you'd want to go. When bottoming, is it the shock itself that runs out of travel or the linkage?

The eyelet or (dogbone) that came with the shock, screwed all the way in, still raises the rear end up 15mm. That's as short as I can make it. The spring rate is etched on the spring. It's actually a 1006 lb/mm and my original was a 937. It just doens't make any sense. A 6 inch spring can be pre-loaded to 5 inches, no more, right?

I'll try to keep this simple. I have a Penske with 1000lb spring that added the minimum I could add of 15mm of ride height (5mm of shock length) I weight 165 w/gear but need to be able to carry another 30-40 lbs With 1/2 the pre-load added I get a rediculous 22mm of free sag and 43mm of sag with me on it. I have gone over the bike dozens of times and the link, shock, anything you can think of is installed correctly. When I take it off the center stand, the bike just collapses. I've had the stocker in there and everything's normal and that spring is softer?!!! I know one has nothing to do with the other but if you take the 15mm of ride height you get a very reasonable 7/28mm sag. I just find that a little odd. It's a 6 inch spring and now it's at 5.5 inches. I could put more crank on but didn't I just spend $700 on a shock to NOT have to max out the pre-load to make it work right? The funny thing is, the bike never bottoms out and actually rides quite well. I also just had it serviced. Even if I can can't check sag for shit the numbers couldn't be off by that much, I hope.

A damper probably won't help a light shimmy that much. Your money would be better invested in setting it up your suspension properly.

I'm pretty serious about getting the E360's I'm wondering what a good deal is for the bags and wing rack. Is the system heavy? It looks really bulky in pictures. How do they work? Thanks