Furbird

I can help you with the pop-ups on internet explorer. I have a program called "Pop-up Stopper", and it is designed for use with internet explorer. Since I got it (it is free) I have not had a single pop-up on internet explorer. It's been out for a while, so you should have no problem finding it.

I appreciate the honest answer to my serious question. I was hoping to get that kind of response, a clearly understandable one, with enough computer talk to not lose me and enough layman's terms to keep my on track. I certainly hope they release a new version, because it sucks to be able to reply to a bunch of boards on AOL, but then have to fire up Internet Explorer just for this one site. Or maybe you guys just don't want the Furbird participating because he furred his XX like a hooligan stunter Thanks again.

OK. My name is Furbird and I am an AOL-coholic. I know and understand the repercussions of this. However, it is amazing to me that of the 10 message boards I am a part of, this is the ONLY one that I have to open internet explorer for. Can you guys give me a real reason, other than AOL sucks and all that other stuff you have in the FAQ? I just can't understand why this board is this way but nobody elses does this "invalid session" crap.

That's weird Voodoo. My rear is on about 9k now and still going strong. The front is near 14, but needs to be replaced. I do a lot of drag racing too on these tires, so maybe I got a real good one or you got a real bad one.

Continental ContiForce. Excellent traction at the dragstrip, excellent lateral traction, good mileage, and you can do stoppies. Not to mention the cheapest sportbike tires you can buy. Besides, if you hate them, you can sell them to me

I am running the D&D full system. I got it because it was cheap, loud, lighter than stock, and makes more power. I never have seen the purpose in a PCII because NOBODY has maps for D&D on birds. I've got a buddy of mine that just pulled his Vance and Hines carbon fiber slip-ons off, and he will be selling them, if you're interested. I'll get the details and a price for you if you'd like.

www.motorcyclecloseouts.com You will not find a cheaper D&D price, including ebay. I have a D&D and love it. 4 years, no problems (other than the chrome rusting on the header but who looks at the header), and yes it is loud. But considering you can buy (at this price) 3 of them for what one Akrapovric (sp.) or Micron would cost you, then it's a smoking deal. I've run my D&D since new with no program. No interest in buying a Power Commander cause for the same price I put nitrous on my bike :twisted:

See, mine is the exact opposite. When I come off the trailer I have the grabbing problem, but after a couple of passes I can slip it. It might be me though, not being able to practice launches before I actually make a pass. If you can find that post about a cure for that, I would sure appreciate it. I'm sick, am organizing a huge car show for this Sat. for 2 car clubs, and am re-furring the bike, so I'm slammed right now. Besides, I wouldn't know where to begin to look!

Actually, I have streph throat and a serious headache, so the answer to that question would be yes However, I was under the impression that the XX had a lock-up clutch of some type. My clutch is a PITA on dragstrip launches, and I actually feather it in and out while I am staging to keep all the clutches spinning so they don't "lock" as hard once I actually let the clutch all the way out. Whatever it is I'm doing when I do that seems to work, because most of the time it results in a good launch. Still, there are some times that when I come out of the hole the bike stands up or bogs big time, therefore I thought that it was a "lock-up" type clutch. And I know for a fact that they do make lock-ups like I described. I have seen one for a KZ1000 back when I was racing mine, and it did have teeth that progressively locked into place to prevent slippage once it was engaged. Almost like a locking rearend on a 4WD or drag car.

A lock-up clutch is basically like a clutch with gears on it. Once it engages, it locks in place, so it takes an extreme amount of horsepower to make it pop-out. I know for a fact my bike has one in it, and I bought my bike brand new, so it is stock. If it doesn't have one in it, then they took clutch material and springs out of an 18 wheeler because mine locks up all the time, which creates a serious problem when trying to "slide" out of the hole at the track. The clutch is always locking in place, which means you either get big wheelies or bog out of the hole. It takes a lot of finesse to make my bike 'slide' out like you need it to do for good ET's. I thought all XX's came with them.

Negative on the rear cowl, it IS different. I have a 97 cowl and it does not fit properly around my 99 taillight. Luckily, the cowl came with it's own taillight, so if I ever decide to use it I'll have to rig up the light and make it fit. I mean it's close, but it is different, and it rubs the light in some places and has a gap in others.

I found the pictures, I've just got to get them up on my site so I can link them up. They're not the clearest in the world, but you'll get the idea.

If you're oil filter fails and takes out your motor, then you don't replace the filter enough, and Honda will still blame you for it. There's nothing in an oil filter that could fail catastrophicly enough to take out an engine. Even if it split or ruptured, you would have serious traction issues and the oil light come on LONG before that motor let go. But hey, if you want to keep paying Honda $10 for a $3 filter, then you go right ahead. I'll keep on using Honda GN4 oil even though people tell me I don't have to.

No offense, but I'm pretty sure Honda does not make even their own oil filters. Even if they do, all you are getting is a 3 dollar part that they mark up to $10 and stamp Honda on it. I have been running Fram's, but now that this chart came out, I will buy the longest oil filter I can get and the best quality one. A company that makes nothing but filters is going to be a whole lot better at making them than people who build the whole friggin bike!

I have the vista cruise, but I found the way that is described on the site puts the thumb control too low. I notched the area between the two tabs, and put a small screw threw the bracket to act as a lock. This gets the thumb control up higher for easier use (for me anyway). The only downside is I have to remove it to trailer the bike. I'm sure I've got pics around here somewhere, if you all would like to see it.

I have a D&D full system on mine, so take your level and multiply it by 3. It's loud, but I like it, and there is no mistaking me when I pull in to the hangout. Like the fur isn't loud enough or something

I went through the Parts Unlimited, Sunstar, JT Sprockets, and Sprocket Specialists fitment charts and found out what all sprockets fit our bike. For instance, the countershaft sprocket for our bike is the same as on an 82 CB750! Anyway, it should help you out if you find an ebay sprocket and don't know if it would work on your bike. The countershaft sprocket fits a lot of bikes, but the rear sprocket is pretty limited. Only certain 900's, 600's, and other birds share our rear sprocket.

Sorry, I don't agree. I have a D&D full system, and they come with the stopper to retain the center stand. I kept mine because it makes it so much easier to work on the bike without worrying about it falling over. Why buy a swingarm stand when Honda gave you one for free? Maybe somebody who dumped their center stand when they put their exhaust on will sell/give you their center stand retaining bracket.

You can also pull the bulb-side of the pin out from the connector in the upper fairing. This is what I did. Then I smoked the factory amber lenses, so the mirrors appear to be all black until you hit the signal then you see this mysterious amber flash coming from nowhere.

The correct way to do it would to be to lower it at both ends. What I did was to lower the spring rate on the rearend and that solved my problem. I'm about 5-10, 5-11 or so, but only have a 30" inseam, so I had the same problem. I took the rearend down about 3/4" at the spring itself and that took care of it. The dogbone will work, but it changes the geometry of the rearend, which can be a bad thing. If you are dropping it more than an inch, you need to lower the front as well. All you have to do is unbolt the fork tubes from the triple clamps and slide them up higher in the clamps themselves (which lowers the bike). This will also raise your handlebars up, making it easier on your back and wrists and makes you sit more vertical. But remember, the more you lower it, the less ground clearance you will have, and when you add a passenger to that, that puts the bike even closer to the ground. That's a lot of sacrificing for two up riding. I'd really watch it over rough pavement because you will have a high probability of scraping the exhaust and who knows what else when two-up on a dropped bird.

The best way I've heard of is to unbolt the front sprocket first by leaving the bike on the sidestand. This way your old chain and the tire are taking all the stress of removing the bolt instead of the transmission (if you were to have it on the centerstand and in first gear). Also, just for cleanliness, make sure you wipe off all the built up mud, grime, grit, oil, and other small animals that have been sucked into the front sprocket cover/clutch slave cylinder housing. You might want to clean off the chain guide as well. If you have a chain breaker, don't use it. It's so much cooler to use an angle grinder and cut the old chain off (sparks are cool)

The Busa guys around here all know they can beat me on the track. Of course, most of them weigh 180-200#'s and/or have swingarms, MCR2's, straps, Power Commanders, lowering links, and some even have strutted rearends! If I had all that crap and weighed that little I'd be as fast as them too! I look at it like this: I run 6.40 at the local track, full suspension, no bottle, stock length. The absolute fastest NA Busa here has a 6 over swingarm, MCR2, lowering link, strap, power commander, jet kit (non efi bike), and a 185# rider and runs 5.80. The general consensus is roughly every 12 pounds = .1 at the track. He weighs, 55#'s less than me, so if I lost that 55#'s I'd run 5.95. That would still be on a stock length bike! Hell, I can kill him on the tree, so as long as I beat him by .15 on the tree then I've got him whooped. So who is actually faster with all things being equal? I usually don't take my aggressions out on the street. It's just too dangerous. But if somebody makes me mad enough, trust me, it's on.

Bottles last a lot longer than I imagined. I hit it about 5 times last bottle, and when I had it refilled there was a ton still in it. Nitrous is only $3 a pound here, so no worries in that department. The bike is still stock when the gas is off. No change in rideability. Full suspension, stock length, just a regular ole XX but with fur and a 2.5# bottle hanging off the side!

My second newbie thread, this is in response to a request as to how I did my nitrous install. There's two ways to do this on a sportbike, the normal way and the way I did it Most motorcycle nitrous systems are dry kits. They fog the airbox with a 40 HP shot, and you have to buy a power commander and go 2 bars rich on WOT. That's cool, if you want a 40 shot. Not enough for me. So I decided to get a direct port kit. Now most people pass out when I tell them I have nitrous on a bike, I have to get out the shocker paddles when I tell them it's a 70 shot, and they are on full life support when I say direct port. A lot of people have nitrous where I'm from, but most of them are plates, or single wet kit nozzles, etc. When you tell them direct port, they are impressed. When you tell them direct port on a bike, they just start acting wacky. What I bought was actually an old direct port kit off a turbo funny bike. This guy was using it to spool the turbo, and it was jetted for maybe a 50 shot. The problem is this kit has all plastic lines, with funnel jets, which are next to impossible to find, and he had lost a jet. So I found a site where the guy jetted his direct port kit at the distribution block, that way he could get more consistent flow to each cylinder. So I converted my distribution blocks so that I could do this, and hooked it up originally with a 40 shot. Well, that was cool while you are on the gas, but when you let off the gas it would kill the motor because the jets were too rich. OK, no problem, it wasn't enough anyway. So I got the correct 70 shot jets, which cured most of that problem. I've still got a little time where it runs rich, but rich is better than lean so I'm leaving it alone. All I have to do is shorten the fuel lines and it will be solved, but it doesn't bother me much. So, I've got direct port 70 shot. Go to the track, spray it, instant wheelie. Hmm. So I waited until 3rd gear. STILL wheelied. I bolted up my old wheelie bars. They broke at the track and almost took me down. So I bought an all out slick and Pingel wheelie bars. Well, the bars work good, but the slick is too big, so not only do I not have enough gear, but I'd have to extend the swingarm to get the correct gear on it or the tire will hit the swingarm. My whole point in getting the bars was to not have to extend the swingarm, so I just took all that off and run the bike at the track NA. I have sprayed it on the street though, just for kicks (and not around any traffic). Let's just say that turbo Busa's would have a hella race on their hands if they pick on me on the street. I know you guys have seen that turbo Busa video where the speedo moves almost as fast as the tach. Well, my bike does that too but I didn't spend $5000 to get it to do it :twisted: How much do I have in it? Less than a tenth of what the big boy turbos cost, that's including all the parts I bought plus a second bottle and warmer. Not to mention I can take all that stuff off, return the bike to stock, and sell the kit for more than I paid for it. What kind of times? Well, I can't keep it down, so I can't get a good ET. I gained as much as 12 MPH in the 1/8, and around 30 MPH in the 1/4. I've been 10.52 on it NA in the 1/4, and 6.80 in the 1/8, with a 240# rider on full suspension and true street tires. I figure if I lose about 40 pounds and spray the top of 3rd and most of 4th, high 9's are very likely. Not bad for a 25,000 mile Honda that's still stock length and unmodified suspension. Of course, it would have more like 35,000 miles before I can lost 40 pounds :wink: