EVLXX

OK.. so I had just a little time to do some research, but didn't find all the answers I wanted... 1. How many Watts or Amps of extra power does the Birds Charging system make over it's basic requirments to operate propperly ? Answer.. about 110 watts, or about 9 amps. 2. How many Amps was the stock Regulator Rectifier rated for ? The nearest I can figure is about 12 amps. or about 144 watts. (However I'm Not sure about this) In this configuration.... the Bike should charge great.. and realistically the R/R should last a nice long time. However, once you start decreasing your electrical consumption... you may go over what your R/R was designed to handle, actually, it's extremely easy to do just that anymore, with all the highly efficient LED lights for everything. So lets say you Save another 100 watts by changing all your lights out to LED's, Headlights, Taillight, and running lights. If you did that, then your R/R is going to be constantly trying to disipate 210+ watts, or about 17 amps. So I wonder how long a 10 amp reglator will last that's trying to constantly burn uo 17 amps. Maybe a good idea is to install a 20 amp R/R. I believe that what this one is... http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm PS... Vern. I'm not going to say you were wrong... but what I am going to say is... WE are constantly learning here, Both of us. So have a good day.

So... if the RR has to dissipate and Extra 50W... from just the headlight. then you add in the Tail light, and running lights, etc. and there's another 100+ Now if you don't use it somewhere else, because you could, and that would be great, then your RR is going to constantly be burning off the excess, which if it wasn't designed to handle the increased load rate.... would shorten it's lifespan. I'm not saying it's going to kill it "tomorrow"... just shorten its duty cycle, if you will.... and how much shorter depends on how HOT you run it. PS... 150 watts of Heat in a small area is one Hot mother fucking spot... or block for that matter. Go ahead and Grab a lit up 150W light bulb with a bear hand.... ya NO... me neither.

Yes.. I've had a basic understanding about this the entire time.. however... I know that our motorcycles use a Shunt Regulator.... which is what made all the rest of this talk ... This is interesting.... in the very first paragraph... http://www.roadstercycle.com/Frequently%20asked%20questions.htm Which confirms what I was trying to say earlier , in a round about way.... your Motorcycle has a Shunt (Linear) regulator... which Burns off the excess electricity... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_regulator Not a Switching Regulator... Like on a Car. So ya... plug in those LED's and say goodby to your R/R. ....

OH and one more thing.... Fron the LED light Ebay link above... The Lumens output of those LED lights is said to be 1800 and 1600 Lumens. Which is the SAME light output from most all Stock 55W bulbs...which vary between 1200-1800 Lumens... and Nowhere near the output of a 35W HID.. which is in the 3000 Lumens range. See here... (in this chart the D2S and D2R's are the HID bulbs.) http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulb_types/bulb_types.html

I like being consistent.... Just not consistently Wrong.... LOL. This leads to a self educational event, Like now, which is usually after someone makes a comment without any proof to back up there statements. Which I can be just as guilty of... I admitt. This usually happens form something learned years and years ago... without an educational event on the subject since then. So here... Alternators and Generators... http://www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-alternator-and-generator/ Regulator Rectifiers... http://racetechelectric.com/ft-751-voltage-regulators.html

However... you Motorcycle does Not have an Alternator.... It has a Generator, that Yes, Is always producing power... and all the excess power, gets burnt up in the form of Heat energy by the Regulator Rectifier. So... the more electrical power usage you save with LED lights etc., the harder you make the Reg/Rectifier work.

So... Not to be a Asshole, But... just remember, with every Amp of power you save running those Less Demanding electrical products... the greater the Load of dissipation you put on your Regulator/Rectifier.... and if the load is to great, or it's of a high enough load for to long.... it will damage the R/R.

+1 Which may not have been your fault.... I've found Lots and Lots of Bad nuts, that have damaged or improperly cut threads straight out of the "New" box. A Nut with the wrong pitch threads starts out great, but slowly shaves of more and more metal, until it goes into lock up, as you described. However, this usually happens on a Bolt that's too Long. The Bolt threads should never stick out of the back of the nut more than 1/2", if they do... wrong bolt.

Just a small update... As it turns out the New Cam looks to have worn in perfectly, it's out, and I'm currently in the works of tracking down the true cause to all my problems. So... For now, it looks like this entire ZDDP shit is a bust. As for my motor, I've gotten it taken down to just the block, crank, and pistons left in the truck. I've pulled the # 3 main bearing cap and several of the Rod bearing caps to find that they are a wiped (Showing Copper). However, the Cam bearing appear to be perfect. So Now to figure out why only the Crack and Rods were starved for oil. When I pulled the pan... it was clean, not a lot of metal. Pulled the oil pump apart, and it definitely shows scars from metal bits going through it. All fucked up. Additionally, on the last drive home, my Oil pressure spiked, then dropped, then came back up. Upon closer inspection, I found that a piece of the oil pump block gasket was blown out, and stuck in the strainer. Not good. But even more strange at the same time. So... I'm figuring I'm going to find metal bits or something in the lower oil galleys, and the only way I can check that is if I pull the engine. I'm currently calling friends to see if I can borrow a cheery picker and an engine stand. Fun fun .... for sure. Not! More when I know more...

OK... I went looking for information on ASTM test methods... To see if the above Speed talk guys info was comparable... found the 4 ball wear and shear test methods (D4172 and D5481) are the most important and relevant test. However, finding any real world test results from those is well.... impossible. Then Ended up finding this... which is a huge continuation of the information above.... http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Which as it turns out, brought me right back to Speedtalk... and his Opinions Columns... http://blog.speedtalk.com/ .... Needless to say... the more I read from the guy... the more I am thoroughly impressed.... and I'm finding out There's a boatload of Bullshit out there. PS. it's easy to buy into the Bullshit, when it's always the first thing you find and it's backed up by countless celebrities. So, where does this bring bring me... to these to articles... http://blog.speedtalk.com/2014/02/break-in-oils-do-we-really-need-them.html And this one.... http://blog.speedtalk.com/2013/12/0w40-vs-5w30-vs-0w30.html Which has given "ME" an new definition for the Best oil for my money, that I can buy Cheap, and use in Ever thing I own.... ( one of these)

From the last link. . True... However, this only proves one thing. Under this guys methods, that he doesn't fully detail, the different oils perform with different results. .... So..... so far I've concluded, I still need to perform more research on this Oil wear testing stuff.

OK... Now I find this... http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30483 Very Interesting.... Only made it through the first page... but again.. Very Iteresting. Well.... I thought so anyways.

I will say this... If ZDDP was NOT important and all you needed was an oil film to protect your moving parts.... then WHY is it in Every engine oil on the market ? Now.... Lets throw in Supply and demand coupled with government regulation.... Is a 700ppm level "Good enough" to protect your engine for a reasonably acceptable engine life-cycle, and can those values appease the governmental regulations? Yes. So now ask yourself.... why would anyone need anything that's better than that ? .... As for spreadsheets from Oil Analysis reports, .... here.... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/category/5/Oil_Analysis_Reports Note: Just because you find one report that says the particulate numbers are "ya" high.... does not mean they are all that way... For instance I 've seen Mobil 1 MX4t with Zinc numbers from 1100ppm all the way up to as high as 1800ppm.

Kiwimack, What oil did you run previous? and Will you tell me how the new oil feels on your shifting after a few hundred miles of use? Thanks. John01XX No need for you to worry, Motul is good stuff.... Or at least that's what I am reading anyway, but I'm still trying to find "New" lab analysis reports for the virgin oils. As for the "motorcycle specific" oils from what I have gathered so far.... almost all of them have ZDDP levels at or above 1600 ppm Superhawk996... Excellent post. Thank you.

Hey, Mobil one 0W40 looks like some good stuff... and somehow it has better than average ZDDP levels at around 1000 ppm. Nice. From what I've been able to gather, the new norm for ZDDP in automotive oils is between 500-700 ppm.

Yes I have them... I have dual 350 lbs. springs in it. My motor is by no means "stock". The Stock 400 put out something like a whimpy 200 ish hp and 300 lb.ft. It had 8.6 or 9:1 compression etc etc. I "built the motor myself in 1998, and every part of the engine was upgraded. Back to the Spring rate.. read that if your valve springs are over 200lbs per inch, you need to use smaller springs for break in or reduced ratio rocker arms. ... However, that's all beside the point, the point is the Oil today is not what is was in 1997-2003. So... unless you have a Motorcycle with roller valve trian and full system roller bearings.... you need to be buying GOOD oil... And I'm not going to get into a oil flame war over name brands etc., All I'm trying to do is help to educate people. I'll say it again.... Basically if your NOT running a 15W50 automotive racing motor oil or a motorcycle specific oil, like Mobil 1 MXT4.... you need to change your ways... and fast.

The Diesel oils Do have higher levels than th e automotive oils... however, there is some question as to whether or not those levels are high enough. Little confused.. you said you did your sons 302 yesterday... rebiuld or just oil change ? If rebuild... start praying. If just oil change, your probably OK, but I would still advise you getting some ZDDP additive in there.

You would think... but thats where you would be WRONG! Since 2007, from what I gather, the new regulations DO NOT require the new oils to protect older engine criteria. Yes I did Break in Oil and Filter Changes, Cheap 10w40 oil with STP ZDDP additive. However, because I used the Cheap 10w40 oil and Cheap a ZDDP additive, it was not enough to protect the new camshsaft. I also found out, that because of all this BS, I should have also pulled my inner valve springs, what a pain in the ass. So, this time... I have purchased Comp Cams 15w50 Break in oil, and break in additives for the next 2 oil changes. That.. along with now I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out a way of pulling those springs without removing the heads... thinking compressed air.

(Edited to add... I have since done a complete reversal from this first post, see post #33 on the next page for the new and interesting information.) You should... If you don't I feel sorry for you... and I'll advise you to do your homework. Long story short... I recently replaced the Camshaft in my 1979, 400 Ford. The why isn't really important, but what is important is that the New Camshaft is Junk at less than 200 miles. Ya Junk... hundreds of dollars and 4 days of work down the drain. Why... Because I didn't do my Homework. I thought I knew how to properly break in a new camshaft, this was not my first rodeo, but it turns out... times have changed.. and almost all of our Motor Oils have changed... Drastically. Thank You and Fuck You EPA. (I have a new camshaft on order, and will be performing the entire procedure again... with the new Break in oil and I'll be removing the inner Valve springs, yada yada) Now, why do I bring this up here.... Because the more I read and learn, the more I worry about my motorcycle friends here... Basically if your NOT running a 15W50 automotive motor oil or a 20w50 motorcycle specific oil, like Mobil 1 MXT4.... you need to change your ways... and fast. Hear is just a few articles to look at... but like I said.. do your own homework... decide for yourself. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/ http://zddplus.com/how-it-works/ http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1388855235/15 From what I've gathered... you need at least 1200 ppm of ZDDP. Most 15w50 oils have at least this. More is not always better, above 2000 ppm is considered bad as well. Yes... it does more than just protect flat tappet lifters... like plain bearings, rod end bearings, piston wrist pins, etc. etc. Luckily enough for me... I've been using Mobil 1 15w50 for years, so I'm probably alright, but now I wonder if that enough? Maybe I need to start adding a little ZDDP additive. Hmmm... good question!

I guess a lot.... actually. 1999 - 2000 has a Barometric air sensor. The 2001 they removed the Baro Sensor, however, the ECM still reacts to the AAP table on the PC2, which means, all Honda did was remove the sensor and I'm guessing tie the Baro and Map table together. Since I recently found out, working with CbrXXquad on his bike. 2002 - 2003 The ECM mapping was changed from the factory in order to fix a fueling stumble/hesitation issue. ... However, with all that said... CbrXXquad is running my 99 PC2 map in his 01 bike, But we found out on a recent trip to Ark. that the MP table and AAP table were getting combined. Causing a complete removal of Fuel below 10% TP. This was very bad. We has since corrected the error by zeroing out the MP table. ... Does that help ?

LOL.

As far as I know... all PC3 maps are interchangeable. However, you cannot use a PC2 map in a PC3. I have also read about some map file format differences.... but I don't have any personal experience with the PC3 myself. I have a PC2.... old school.

See here.... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=82657 Note... I realize most people here never look at the Important and Useful section. LOL.

Not necessarily.... Factory spec is 39 mm from the flat top of the fork tube... to the Top of the triple. here... However.... MOST of the guys here... drop the Tree's down a little bit to make the steering a little more responsive. Either that or SHim the rear shock.... OR some combination of Both.

Years ago... 20 ish... I framed houses... had to be proficient with a hammer before the Boss would let you use a Nailer... Used to have races nailing walls (studs) and floors (plywood to joist) I can still drive 16 pennys with a set and one swing. It's like riding a bike... and no you dont need 2 hands to hold a piece of ply wood and nail etc. Ps... Glue? and Nail?