Banshee

I have one of his center stand stops already! Great piece of metalwork. (The rubber bung fell off my (98)OEM... ) Let us know how it sounds with the baffles in. I'm really interested in a set of these & the shorties will look a bit different, but while I like a bit of noise, I don't want it too loud and I prefer a deep tone. Really don't like high frequency exhaust noise, it sounds like a leak... So none of the rep reported beans in can rattling?

So, did you get a chance to put them on over the weekend? If so, how do they sound?

Or at least it becomes a Really Great Time for those Upgrades... After all, those bits had to be replaced anyway...

What? Common sense still exists in places in the U.S.? I thought your politicians had outlawed it and eradicated it everywhere. nick11h, sounds like resistance in one of the connections as said above. Check the switchblocks in case the contacts are dirty, or for a loose ground for the light. Try checking voltage between the bulb connector and the battery negative and for resistance from the bulb ground to the battery negative.

I was speaking to the local Delkavic rep down here, who told me that the 350s sold well in UK where they like them louder, but the 450s are more common down here as they have a bit deeper note & aren't subject to the "beans rattling in a can" that you can sometimes get with the shorter cans. Interested in how it sounds for you as I have yet to decide which way to go. (If I can even scrape up the money, that is!)

Bloody grey rider! Used to get the same from the fast red one I had. It's not a slow bike, it's the slow rider! And the slow traffic...

Yeah, but most of my riding is commuting to from work at constant speed along the motorway, so I don't get a lot of chances for tyre shredding acceleration.

Yep, the Roadsmarts are Dunlops reply to the preexisting PR2 and BT021, only released in late '07 I think. And it's either Pilot Road 2 or Pilot Power 2CT, there is no Pilot Road 2CT. For the record I had a set of Roadsmarts, and as my riding is mostly highway commuting my tyres last a long time. I had 20,000km on the OEM D205 when it was dead & replaced it with the Roadsmart, currently at 20,000 & 5,000-10,000 left on it still. Not too badly flattened in the middle yet. The front had a failure though and went in at 20,000km with a 5"long blister 1" wide on both the outside and inside. It had ~ 10,000 left with my riding. Currently have a Pilot Sport on the front.

I had the stock rebuilt locally by a racetech specialist on my '98. Made a fantastic difference & I'm about 165lb (75kg). While it is not a 'rebuildable' shock, it can be done. They stripped it down, put in new oil, a Racetech Gold Valve & a schrader to repressurise with nitrogen. At the moment, I have a rebuilt '94 900RR with remote res on my '07. This one has compression adjustment that the OEM lacks even after rebuild.

I used to get that as well. Seems perfectly normal and can be heard on the OEM lines if you listen carefully... I think. That was when I had my '98 with Goodridge lines. Haven't got around to replacing the ones on my '07 yet.

I used Widder gloves and vest for years on my '98 with no problems other than the usual. (Dodgy Honda RR!) Using them now on my '07, no problems.

I had one from Factory Pro on my '98. I got the adjustable 6degree one and started whole hog at +6degrees. It worked well with the K&N & Yoshi slip ons, but I had to always use 96-98 RON fuel or it would ping all the time. No problem, I also used to get ~20kpL (19.5 to best of ~22). Only problem was I then couldn't get the bolt out to adjust it back down so I was stuck at +6. Oh yes, the 3 changes above also completely got rid of the dip in the power curve and I had a dead flat torque of 120-122Nm between 3k & 10k as checked on a dyno. (Unfortunately, I have lost the print out.)

I had Goodridge lines on my '98, loved them! Will get some of them, or maybe HEL, for my '07 when I have some spare cash.

I found that the arc is further from the base plate than the filament in an H7 globe, so I put about 4mm spacer on the front of the HID globe base plate to bring it back into line. The illumination is just as good as before the plate went in, but doesn't get defocused by the light coming from the wrong place now.

I have a 2007 with K&N. On ~95RON E10 I get ~41mpg when commuting. (~35mi each way with ~32 slabbing at 65-75, most at 75). Up to 44mpg if I use 98RON. (Shell V-power, etc)

The main thing to remember is that the front reservoir only feeds the front outer pistons. All the centre pistons and the rear outers are fed from the rear reservoir.

An excellent explanation, thanks. Now if only we could get away from those pesky hammer springs & close the valves quickly, but gently we'd be on a winner! The only thing I can thing of that comes close is the desodromic system or rotary valves. One tried & tested, but mechanically complex, so more parts subject to wear... The other, around in various guises for some time, but has rarely been used in 4 strokes as far as I am aware.

On board fire extinguisher? Isn't that what you drink all the beer for? Rust wouldn't be a problem for stainless headers, though, just the older mild steel ones. I hadn't heard of wrap catching fire before! On the other hand, I also don't know that there would be much heat soak from the headers, even though they are close behind the radiator. Save up for a rainy month & get them ceramic coated then! It's on my list to do... somewhere... when I have the cash... after winning the lottery maybe?

From the braking system diagram in the manual: The rear pedal activates the centre rear and front left pistons directly, and via a pressure "delay" valve, the front right centre piston. Once the front left is used (either by lever or pedal), it will rotate due to drag from the disc and actuate the outer rear pistons on the rear, via a proportional control valve using the secondary master on the left fork leg. So effectively, when you brake hard with the pedal you use both front centre pistons and all 3 pistons on the rear. Brake gently, you only get the rear centre. In between, you get a mix of both. Note: When bleeding the brakes, the front master only feed fluid to the front outer pistons. The front centre and all rear pistons are fed from the rear reservoir. This makes bleed order critical.

I had one on my '98 carbed bird, set to +6deg. Ran well but I had to use premium unleaded or it would ping like crazy. I was going to set it back, but found that I couldn't get the bolt undone again, so left it. I had a K&N AF, Yoshi slip ons and a set of '99 headers fitted as well. I normally averaged on my daile commute ~20kpL ( 47.25mpg(US)) The only other real noticeable effect was that I now had to have the engine over 3000RPM to get the 1/2 meter flame/bang from the Yoshis by flicking the run/start switch off/on.

I have used WD-40, but you spray it on a cloth, then wipe it over, not spray on the chain. Either that or el-cheapo spray degreaser that you then gently hose off. With for the chain to dry then relube. In the interim until the pro oiler gets it adequately covered, I have used, (once), G-96...

That is per cylinder, so 50 Spark/Sec * 4 cyl = 200 Spark/Sec total in the engine.

Arrived safely Down Under to the door yesterday. Thanks :icon_clap:

Money sent. Thanks.

Because it makes the rear feel so much better as well. Especially since there are longer rubber lines there. Very effective for when you use the pedal a lot in traffic and commuting. Not so necessary if you only ride the twisties on the weekends.