Dutch

Looks like I'm not the only one selling. Keeping it on the front page...

Hell. I'm surprised that it took that long...

Not sure yet. I'm not a Ducati fan, but the 1125 looks interesting. Though I wouldn't balk at a Mille or Tuono. Or even a 'Hawk or RC-51.

Ding ding ding. We have a weiner... It wouldn't be a problem getting the bike there. But the cash is going to be very tight. I'm trying to get a bit of a buffer to offset the cost. Not to mention the fact that I'm getting a hankerin for a big twin.

Wish I could. I won't be bike-less for long. I'll be back on something else next spring.

I hate to do it, but I'm moving in a couple of months so I've decided to sell the XX. 2003 with just under 15k on the clock. Yoshi cans. 6mm shim in the rear. It's sprung a little stiff for a lightweight like me but if you're 190 and up it'll be perfect. Brand new Pilot Power on the rear. Front has around 2k on it. Frame sliders. Brand new cush drive. It has the typical XX CCT rattle but that's a five minute fix. Plastics are nearly perfect. No drops, slides, scrapes or mishaps. If you were at NeXXt you saw it. If you weren't, ask someone that was... I'd like to see 6500 for it.

I ask myself that same question all the time... Not that I'm complaining, of course And to top it off, she loves to ride.

This is on the XX. The R1 would be pretty simple. Three years away from a hydraulic clutch. Guess I'm a little rusty. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=39375 Back on a 'bird.

The R1 had a cable clutch which makes adjustment easy if it's needed. Never had to do it, but it would've been easier. The XX is, I gather, a little trickier with the hydraulic clutch. Here's the problem. The friction zone is way out near the end up the throw for the clutch lever. To the point that the bike starts to move when there's maybe 1/4 inch of lever travel left. Is there any adjustment, and if there is, what do I need to do to adjust it? Is it a lever adjustment or is it the clutch itself?

Agreed. I've gotten quite a few things from them. Never had any problems.

Same wreck, but in a video file. http://www.joe250.com/video/Tankslapper2.wmv Here's a good site that explains tankslappers and headshake. http://www.joe250.com/ride/tankslapper.htm

Tankslappers are side to side. Basically, much amplified headshake. To the point that the movement of the forks is knocking the rear out a couple of feet.

I had the same problem last year. Turned out it was the crappy, cupped D207 on the front. Replaced the tires with M1s and the wobble disappeared.