runner

Finally went with the EPFAA pads. Wow, what a difference. They are worth every penny...they aren't radials...but sure are a huge improvement!

From the Fireblade Site.... Starter Valve Synchronization and Plugs - Honda CBR 929RR / 954RR Honda refers to the fuel injection throttle body synchronizing as Starter Valve Synchronization. Basically the purpose is to adjust throttle valve for fuel injection throats so that they pass as much fuel-air mixure as all the others (balancing the load by each piston). This balance will affect the response, smoothness, mileage, performance and running temperature of the engine. I purchased Morgan's Carbtune II (4 column mechanical manometer). The scale is in cmHg (centimeters of mercury). The actual cmHg readings are not as critical as is the synchronizing of throttle bodies #2, #3, and #4 TO #1 ( #1's starter valve is fixed/non-adjustable). I also purchased Snap-On's TM-64 adjustment tool (recommended by member who first started the thread of Starter Valve Synch, DanDRR? Sorry can't remember who, maybe he'll chime in). So. if anyone's interested, here's my details of how I did my spark plug replacement and Starter Valve Synchronization. 1. Set bike up on rear stand (optional) 2. Remove seat 3. Remove 2 front tank bolts and 1 rear tank bolt 4. Prop the tank up by string method, or I used tie downs extended from open ceiling joist in my basement to hold tank up by the (2) open bolt openings. I also removed the small vent line from under the tank to allow easier/more movement. 5. Remove the (8) screws around the upper airbox and the (2) screws in the middle. A pen light is very handy. Disconnect electrical connector and pull upper airbox cover off. 6. Remove air filter element, and start removing (6) philips head screws of the (2) pairs of velocity stacks. Remove velocity stacks. 7. Pull off (3) hoses on bottom portion of airbox and disconnect another electrical connector. Pull air box up and back to get passed air inlets, now flop the air box over the left side of bike (clutch side) watching for the flapper cable slack. I even used another tie down to support the airbox from above. 8. Pop each spark plug cap, I used leverage from large screwdriver and pryed it up. The plug caps are alot larger than I thought (maybe 4" in length). Pull electrical connection off cap. Remove all (4) caps and plugs, install new plugs, reinstall caps and electrical connectors. Make sure caps are all the way on and secure to spark plug. Note: Morgan Carbtune recommends that you have everything in perfect working condition and any other work completed before adjusting throttle bodies, ie., new air filter, new plugs, etc. 9. Start removing the (4) vacuum bleed screws from just under the throttle bodies. They are both phillips head and 8mm hex head. Use the best method you can to gaining access to these screws, a magnetic screwdriver would be recommended (I dropped 3 of screws along with 3 of their washers, took awhile to locate and get them out). Flexible screwdriver would be ideal, although you still have to initially break the tight screw/bolt. Note: Also remove the PAIR valve hose at the reed valve and plug the reed valve nipple so to not give false vacuum readings?. Not too bad to get to. 10. Attach the (4) remote hoses for the Carbtune II, the hoses have brass adapters at the end that will thread back into the vacuum bleed locations. Use the hose to guide it to there, and spin the hose to help start threading the adapter (it's freakin tight in there). Make sure #1 bleed screw is #1 hose on Carbtune and so forth. 11. Start the bike and let it warm up to normal temperature, manual recommends using the throttle stop adjustment to raise the idling if necessary to keep bike running at idle and not stalling during synch adjustments. Note: FI light will blink 3 times, then go off, and blink 3 times, etc. This is because of the unplugged electrical connection of upper airbox. 12. After warmed up, document the starting readings of Carbtune. Mine were something like #1-16cmHg, #2-19cmHg, #3-18.5cmHg, and #4-19.5cmHg. Use the SnapOn TM-64 tool with a 7mm socket to adjust #2, #3, #4's starter valves to #1's settings. The starter valves are spring loaded and do not have a lock nut to loosen. The Morgan manual states acceptable synchronization is within 2cmHg of each cylinder. I got mine to equal out across the board at 16cmHg (just about perfect). 13. Adjust and wait for reading, gently blip the throttle to set the adjustment. Turn the starter valve clockwise to bring reading down. Adjust until all are equal or close to #1's reading. Turn off bike and reverse procedure. Done, now throw away all the empty beer bottles! Let the bike cool down before attempting to remove the Carbtune hoses/adapters, not only will the bike be hot but the adapters will be easier to unthread once cooled. I have definately felt and heard the difference with my new plugs and synchronizing the starter valves. Idles smoother, crisp response, doesn't seem to vibrate as before - but, I haven't been able to test ride it yet (rain, rain, and more rain). I will reply with opinions of ride afterwards. Feel free to correct anything I missed or wrong. Later

I found no info using the search function....what is the proper way to tighten the birds steering head bearings? Is there a recommended grease (lithium, etc) to use for these bearings? thanks

After 2 birds (over 10 years) the question often comes...what single change makes the biggest difference? Easy one for me... my current 98 bird has really started handling rotten. I simply walk to the front & yep....front tire is shot. Time for a PR III. So, what change have you made that makes the biggest difference? Tires for me!

Target practice?....I usually just toss them....

Recent writeup in MCNews got me thinking (dangerous)...anyways..would a swap to radial brakes be as good as it sounds? Combined with a delink it could put the CBXX brakes up there with current superbike brakes....thoughts?

I run the full Muzzy system...not too loud and sounds great! I have tried many sytems and this is one of the best...no jetting chgs required (97-98).

If ever????

Is the back wheel in good shape?

Just the overall stopping power isn't that strong. This is my 2nd bird and I wasn't impressed with its brakes (stock) either. I will switch to EBC HH's and Motul 600 brake fluid if thats recommended (I run it in my dirt bikes to prevent fluid boiling). FYI...my old CB750 stops about as well...even w/a drum back brake. Of course, that hardly matters as the rear brake matters very little in hard stops. thanks

Which pads have the best stopping power? I have ran many different types on different birds...but I am now on the edge of tossing the linked system since my brakes just don't stop hard enough. What is the best pad for stopping power (both dry and rain)? Any other suggestions (steel-braided lines) instead of the non-linked conversion?

Been away a while...the turbo appears the way to go to run down the busa'a and zx14's. What sites are best to see the specifics for buildups and pricing? (Other than hear obviously).

Are these even mentioned in our major maint. schedule...or only replaced if they show evidence of damage/corrosion? It esp. seems a logical maint. item if your bird is 10 years old ...or older (like my '98 carb'd bird). What are a few decent places to find good prices for repl wires? (Mine recently cut out a bit in heavy rain...not a fun experience while in traffic).

And....5" at the front of the cowl (center point) off the stand...1" difference bet. on and off the stand for my bird....

I was caught in another HEAVY Nashville TN rain yesterday (record rainfall here in Mid-TN). There were no stopping options since I was on the interstate in heavy traffic. Anyways, I ride in rain or whatever all year...and the bird began to misfire on one cylinder. What could have been the cause? Plug or plug wire, ignition, or ??? I have around 50k miles on 2 different birds and have never had a misfire in heavy rain until now. The bike cleared up fine after I got out of the rain and it ran perfect on the way to work this morning. thanks

Mine was 6" at the front of the cowl to the ground....(Bike on the centerstand...)....Let me know if you need the measurement off the centerstand as well....

I have a shimmed 98 w/stock springs ...cowl to ground inches ? I will have a reply Tues morning....I will measure the bird tonight....

Where on the seat? This may impact the repair process... FYI- I have seen really decent prices for used ones on ebay ($25)....

Estimated completion date? Yes, we are jealous....

What are the details? Accessory pipe or slip-on, K&N, etc.... What are you trying to achieve? (I run a 98 with Full Muzzy system, K&N, etc)

Similar setup here....Full Muzzy system (quiet insert), K&N, speedo healer and also dropped a tooth on C/S....very quick and no jet change req'd. I can short shift (usually in traffic) and the lower gearing knocked about 10% off my mileage. Nice bike...

The Yuasa brand has worked great for me...and I DO us ethe battery tender.

Who has a hidden nitrous setup and where did you put the bottle? I am looking for maybe a 35-40 hp boost...but don't want the opponent to know my 98 Bird is anything other than an older carbed Blackbird...

And...what are the most aggessive pads available (dry and rain riding). I install mine dry... I use brake cleaner on some other bikes if brake dust is an issue...

I have had 2 birds with miles approaching 50k. They both seem they could go that far again (to approach 100k). Who has reached 75,000 or more miles? Any maintenance issues to watch out for? (Other than basic valve adj, oil chg, etc).