Violent J
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Posts posted by Violent J
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I know you've been on Psychobike, what do you think of the new Pro Link they've got for the busa's now. You know, the suspension link that you can adjust your shock rate with. Frank Adams says it'll improve your 60' times by as much as .3 on a stretched bike.
I haven't looked into it. I was going to get my shock revalved and resprung.
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Do I understand right? You are going to race a top fuel harley and a busa?
We only run the fuel bike 3 - 4 times a year. We don't like to travel very far. The farthest we go is Bowling Green. 10 hrs away. I'm just trying to build my resume up, I want to ride for a living. And if you had the chance to ride a fuel bike, wouldn't you?
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Wish more people on here were into drag racing.
Ask and you shall receive! I've been around drag racing for about 15 years now. First seven I was my father's pit crew on his Pro-mod Harley. The last eight I've been racing street and drag bikes and crew for my uncle's top fuel Harley( my new ride for next season) Couple of track championships, and still the king of the 60'. I don't like slicks and wheelie bars either. All they are are chains that hold the monster back. Without them, all that is holding the monster back is ME! :twisted: The monster I'm building now, a Busa. Had Puppet build me an eight over arm. Braced all to hell, looks like off the back of Elmer Tretts bike, but the suspension still is there. Going to need it with 400 - 500 ponnies trying to bend the bike into a taco shell. Elixxer, see ya at Byron next season. I'll be looking for you. :twisted:
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Mine whines in third gear when putting through town, don't know why, don't care, it's a Honda, good to go.
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Brakes
in The Garage
mmmm that's right. But the rear wheel is trying to push the front forward, so the front weel is trying to turn, but being held by the claiper, which is rotating and activating the master cylinder.... not all that much I suspect, but enough to apply some pressure to the brake pads....If the front wheel is indeed locked, and has not turned, the master will not be applying the rear brakes.
You need the front wheel to rotate to apply the rear brake pads. If it stays stationary relative to the brake on the left side, it will stay stationary relative to the brake on the right side too. And it does.
J.
That is what I thought too. It might be the way I do my burnouts. I don't sit in one spot. I lock the front brake, get the tire spinning,let off the brake a little and then slowly start rolling forward. So the master would be applied. I do this to keep the tire from collecting all the shit rubber other people burn off in the bleach box. Stealth, the rubber collects in the inner fender mostly but it also gets on the swing arm and all over the shock. It's a real pain to clean out.
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Brakes
in The Garage
OEM front pads seem to average 12k-15k miles. Aftermarkets may vary. The outside left front seems to go first. I don't know of anyone who's worn out a rear set, but I'm sure someone has done it.I just changed my rear pads. Stock pads, 24k miles. It seems the more burnouts you do, the faster they wear because of the stupid linked brakes. I've turned my rear rotor a funny shade of blue also. Does anybody have wave rotors on their bird? How do you like them?
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You have to remove one of the wires from the plug, which risks ruining the plug, unless you have the proper tools to do the job.Plus, it's easily reversible.2 bolts pulls each mirror out. 6 bolts to pull the windshield to access the plugs.
Proper tool? Remove the windscreen? Are you one of those people who can't work on anything without the manual in your hands? Unless they REALLY changed the bikes from 97 - present. Please inform me if I am wrong. My bike is a 97. Each signal has three wires running to them with there OWN (3) male, femal connections. Do the newer models have one signal connection for each turn signal? If so, sorry, the tape would be easier. By the way, you still wouldn't have to remove the windscreen. Just the upper filler pannels in the fairing, two bolts. Different strokes for different folks. :cheers:
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Why mess with the wiring when you can do and undo the tape thing in about two minutes?.
You can get the bulbs out in two minutes? Damn, your good! If you already have the mirrors out and the bulb in your hand maybe. Its not a big deal to get to the wires, either unbolt the mirror stems from the fairing(2 bolts) or take off the upper trim pieces in the fairing (2 bolts and a push pin). Wires are right there. Tape in the socket is cobby in my opinion.
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The real pain with a lock-up is that you will need an air shifter to shift under full power. Or, you will need to train yourself to shift without the clutch (blip the throttle while pre-loading the clutch lever, or just get an ignition kill button and preload the lever with your foot.) You WILL rip the bolts out of the case trying to shift when the lockup has pinched down tightly. (Unless you tune it to be JUST tight enough to not slip.)
I use a Translogic electric shifter because at my local track to run in the street class you can't have an air shifter. Works great, alot of road racers use them too.
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It's amazing what 2 inches of electrical tape can do
2 inches ???????
Try a 1/4 inch square directly over the contact.
Unplugging the running lights wire from the turn signals too easy or something? :idea: :loony:
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Looks like I'll be in the market for a lock up. Violent J if you have any input as to what you think works best let me know. I mostly use the bike for street riding/racing. So I want something user friendly around town.
Elton does indeed offer a complete set up, but for something like $1800. :shock:
I'm hoping to set it up for a little less
I think I paid around $250-$300 for my MRE, but I get stuff at dealer cost through my sponsor. I've heard a MTC 2 stage is way easier to set up. My is set up with no weight on the arms so it doesn't lock up hard until you hit about 6500 RPMs. I ride it on the street every day to work. Get a billet basket too. I got mine from Fallicon, MRE or MTC probably makes them too.
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I tried one of those "race" chains. Bad idea, it was non- o-ring so you had to lube it every 200 miles and it stretched all the time. I had to adjust it after every pass at the track. It only lasted a month. $90 shot in the ass.
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Don't know if they offer a 2 stage lockup for the bird though a single stage is readily available.
MRE does, I have one. MTC does too.
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I had to straighten my sub frame. The best way I found was to measure from left side of the swing arm to the right side of the sub frame, and then measure right side of swing arm to left side of sub frame. Keep tweeking until the measurement is the same from side to side.
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What is their web site or phone number? I ran over a fucking nail. The tire is 1 month old!! I'm pissed. :evil:
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Also I put the bike in gear rather than leaving it in neutral. You'd think that would be something you'd always do, but I've seen folks not put it in gear. Minimizes rolling around.
Not good for your tranny!
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It must work like Yamaha's EXUP valve. I believe it gives the bike more bottom and mid-range. On a Yamaha, there is a servo connected two the other end of the cables and it plugs into the brain box. If you unplug it from the brain box, the bike runs like shit, plug it back in, runs fine. So if you do take the valve off, you might not want to disconnect the servo, just the cables.
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A set of Channel Locks does the trick for me. Keeps your hand from getting burnt on the header also if you warm it up before you change the oil.
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What do your exhaust tips look like?
Something in Turbo Blue burns white. I bet his exhast tips are white as a bone. Like I said, TURBO BLUE IS DOG SHIT!
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Get rid of the race gas. On a stock motor it does nothing. Your wasting your money on it. Unless you are one of those pee-brains that thinks the smell of the exhast is worth the money. If you by it from a gas station, it probably has a TON of water in it because not enough people buy it, so it sits in the tanks at the station collecting water. On top of it all, Turbo Blue is the shittiest race gas made. It's SHIT! If you insist on running race gas, get some VP.
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If you want to fix your switch housings, take a small self tapping screw, about the same size as the peg. pre drill the housing, put in the screw, and cut the head of it off. I had to do this on my bird. Not from my Caynon Dancer, I bought my bike wrecked and it was broke. Cheap fix.
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There is an echo in here! :drinkbeer:
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There is a thing out called a "Cayon Dancer Bar Harness". It's a strap that goes across your upper tree and there are two loops on each end you stick your handle bars through. You hook your tie downs to this and it holds them away from your bodywork. I got mine from aerostich for $30.
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The clutch noise is normal according to everyone on here. As far as your first question, I have never experienced it.
97-98 TPS WTF
in The Garage
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You could buy my Dyna 2000 and set the timing were ever you wanted and it doesn't use the tps. :twisted: