Moriartii

Just got my HID kit, woo hoooo, and am trying to figure out where to put the ignitors and ballasts. Got a couple questions for those of you who have done this. After reading numerous posts my questions are: Ideal location for both ignitors and ballasts installed with nose on/with nose off. Remember this is a 97 with the analog gauges, room may be limited behind dash. Read a post that led me to believe the Mcullough kits have longer leads on them. Will this allow me to put the ballasts under the seat? If so can I run the lead wires under the gas tank? Someone mentioned somethig about doing Warchild's adjustment, what or where is that write up? Thank you in advance as always!!! Kinley

I just ordered mine in the 5K flavor......getting both!!!!! Be envious biotches! Kinley

Walmart Super Tech oil filter part number ST6607

I have the clear alternative taillight (integrated) on my bike as wel. Pretty straight forward and easy install with no cutting of the factory harness. I did drill two very tiny holes in my taillight housing to run the power leads for the LED's. Not a big deal. One thing tho is you will have to replace your stock flasher with a higher resistant one. I spoke to Clear Alternatives when I did mine and they recommended a universal flasher unit from your local auto parts store. Just make sure it is three prong. I decided to fork out the cash for this cause I am anal and wanted my underseat pretty. http://www.customdynamics.com/honda_vtx_3_...n_connector.htm

I will go halves one a 5300K kit with someone. Kinley

You need part number 4jh-81960-01-00 $59 and change from Ron Ayers.

I have a 97 bird with 30K on the clock. When I got it in April I did a major coolant flush on it. This involved doing Warchild's recommended procedure. However when I found out that Dex Cool may be bad I flushed it again and used the premixed bottles of Honda coolant from the stealer. I also put in the recommended amount of Water Wetter. Throughout the process I burped the shit out of the system ensuring no bubbles appeared. My results prior to flushes where the temp gauge ran at about 3/4 of the way up the gauge when at full temp in traffic. After flushes the gauges NEVER goes over the halfway mark. I also live in Austin Texas so it gets pretty warm in traffic. You may need to just flush the shit out of the system, use Honda coolant and some water wetter? Kinley

Anybody know what the part number is for the harness plug is for the R-1 R/R? I am going to do the conversion using 4jh-81960-01-00 for the R/R but I cannot find the part for the plug. Thank you Kinley

I recently did this to my bike as well, taillight is still in progress hence no pics yet. I used a handheld coping saw, a file and some 220 grit sand paper to shape my fender. The fender is pretty easy to cut so a hacksaw should work, may want something smaller for close in work tho. Kinley

Your locale cycle gear store carries something from Motrax that is designed to cover up these holes. I did the exact same mod you did but did not like the look of the light so took the stuff back. In retrospect I think I should have stayed with it....see other posts. Kinley

Best cartman voice "Son of a bitch!!!!" Sigh Kinley

Ok tried to take the taillight off on my 97 bird last night (the whole assembly) by removing the two bolts holding to the fender. The bolts were tight when I began to loosen them. Unfortunately, the "seal" seems to have been released but the bolts are now appearing to just spin. I looked up in the service manual and it says to loosen the bolts remove the assembly. Installation is the reverse. What gives? I tried to tighten the bolts and they still seem to spin, almost like they are stripped??? Any thoughts? Did I f*** up my taillight base? Yes I realize with the collar and the rubber insulator it will still wiggle but the bolts should snugg up. Thank you Kinley

I talked to Matt at Clear Alternatives about the light not being very bright when the brakes are applied. He said he had the same issue with his bike and recommended I go to my local AutoZone and replace my flasher with another universal one. The '97 bird has a three prong flasher swapping out to one that an auto store carries solves this fade issue. FYI Kinley

Thanks for the response. I ended up saying F*** it and ordering the Clear Alternatives LED integrated light. Figured I might as well just go it right and quite jackin around with it Should be here tomorrow so I will be good to go, pics will be forth coming. Kinley

I am cleanin up the ass end on my '97 bird. Going to be mountiung LP flush mount turn signals, removing the license/light thingy, and bobbing the fender. Here is my question. The LP flush mounts are dual fillament/three wire turn signals. I am wondering if I can wire the flashers normally and then run the running lights (the part that stays on all the time) through the hot lead of the license plate light lead? I would basically splice the two signals together and feed into the one hot wire for the old license plate light. I say "old" because I think I am going to either cut or drill out a portion of the brake light to provide the needed light for my plate (of course sealing and covering with clear plastic). Thoughts gotchas??? Kinley (sorry dont know how to make em bigger)

As far as air in the system: I squeezed the upper and lower rad tube several times to burp the air out. Then followed the procedure listed to get the air out by starting the bike, running it, then blipping the throttle a bit till no more burps came out. I cracked teh cap the next day and did it again, no bubbles what so ever. OH!!!!!!! Go to Autozone or automotive place of choice and get a funnel. I picked on up with an expandable downspout, this will save your ass and body work. allows you to put the funnel portion between the handgrip and brake with the downspout securely in the radiator neck. I did not spill one drop of coolan on my bodywork. Kinley

Suck it up and get the HP (honda) coolant. I ended up going back to that cause it made me feel better in the long run. But in the process I flushed with prestone and had to do the whole thing twice. Kinley

Well I ended up getting the New Prestone® All Makes All Models Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant at Autozone alone with Water Wetter. Put in the 50/50 mix of the freeze and water along with 4oz of water wetter. Seems like the bike runs in the half way range on the temp gauge (97 bird). Still a little leery tho cause the mix looks a little clearer than what I drained out of the bike. I guess i will just keep an eye on it and see what happens. Kinley

I picked up some Prestone Dex Cool antifreeze (pink shit stuff that came out of bike was green) and now it appears that is bad to use. My Honda dealer is closed until Tuesday, so what can I use in place of the bad stuff? Need recommendation cause the bike is down now since I read this update while waiting for it to cool down. No coolant in bike. Help Kinley

I am planning on blowing my bike this weekend (awwww I love you darlin :iloveyou: ) and wanted to confirm that Warchild's suggest radiator fluid will work in the 'bird as i am going to be using his technique. He recommends the Havoline Dex-Cool Extended Life coolant in his write up on the FJR site. I am assuming this is just fine for the bird as well but wanted to double check. Thank you all as always. Kinley

ServiceHonda.com Ask for Melissa. Kinley

Smartass (a little screw) So I need to poke a little hole in the rubber boot and little screw it down? Kinley

Just got my satin extenders today from John, very nice and very fast to receive. One question tho, three holes are on the piece, two for the main mounting and one small one up near where the wiring harness comes through. What is this little screw hole for? Kinley

Got the pads changed out this weekend. Used two screwdrivers to gently pry the pistons back. Worked relatively easy and without opening the system and didnt scratch the rotors. Thanks for all the advice. Kinley

Perfect!!!!! Thank you Sir!!!!!!! Just what I was looking for. Kinley