speedygeezer

Put it on ebay with a ridiculous reserve and see what happens.

I know, I know... I owe you a "How To" Sigh. No rest for the wicked.................besides, your fans are waiting. And there must be some real lab tests that make this true, right? Wait a second, did the democrats come up with this tool? Maybe this will help. http://www.proaligner.com/accuracy1a.html

Hey Rich - did you see this?

http://www.proaligner.com. Think you're doing it right? Think again.

Actually, that was when I had a Michelen Power on the rear, and that damn thing slid all over the place. Dave Strom had one just like it and it was a slippery POS also. The Serial numbers were about 50 apart on those two tires. I sold it to Jred after I rebuilt the bike since all he needed was a freeway tire for his work commute. Somebody told me those were good tires, but I got a bad one. But, it wasn't the tire's fault I crashed - it was my screw-up. Thanks for the memories, dickhead........

Just ordered my 6th set of Shinko 009's - $181 delivered. Bike Bandit. Fronts average 10K, rears anywhere from 5K to 9K depending on how my right wrist behaves. No issues ever, and they need minimal weights, if any. Fronts tend to cup out on edges due to tread design, but center is only half gone at 10K.

So, what's happened since Dec. 16? Inquiring mind wants to know.....

It works fine from here, Ronnie. Try it using your left hand.............

Interesting point, Justin, and thank you, but this thing is so simple to use, we never considered the necessity for that. All it requires is the ability to do simple math (67 minus 44 = 22) , average vision, and the brain-power to follow a few simple instructions. But first, it requires the desire to know if your bike's wheels are aligned properly..... :icon_think: And the adjustment marks can't tell you that. Incidentally, the adjustment marks on my XX are off by the thickness of one mark. Aligning the rear axle with those marks offsets the rear wheel thrust line at the front tire contact patch by .55 inch. With the ProAligner, I'm able to adjust the rear wheel so the thrust line is dead center on my front tire contact patch. That capability was proven and certified here - http://www.gpframeandwheel.com/

"How do you know when the front wheel is perfectly aligned with the centerline of the bike? If the front wheel isn't perfectly aligned, the values on the scale would be meaningless when reading the rear tire." Correct. Good thinking! The front wheel is centered within the width of the rear tire, as per the included instructions. :-)) "Would the proceedure be more accurately accomplished with the bike is on the centerstand, or can it be done with the bike on the side stand (i.e. will it work on bikes that have no center stand?)." The centerstand on the Bird interferes with the line of sight, so the bike is placed on its sidestand with the flat side of a 2X4 under it. This stands the bike up a bit for better sighting. The bike's handgrip can also be leaned up against a tree or a wall. And you said you were too dumb to do this.....c'mon.

Here 'tis..........You lie on the floor in front of the bike and sight past the front tire to the rear tire. The scale is used to determine how many mm the rear wheel has to be adjusted to the right or to the left. Full, detailed instructions are included with each order. Even you could use it, Doug...........;-)) (The ProAligner in this photo is not adjusted exactly perpendicular to the centerline of the rear tire as it should be - I was in a hurry and failed to notice it.) FYI, the ProAligner was constructed in a "Z" configuration so that it will work on many different types and styles of motorcycles. After a learning curve, it's a 10-minute job to align your wheels to less than a 0.1" tracking offset. Plus, you can do this anywhere.

Sorry, there just isn't enough markup in this tool to allow for a group buy. However, I can ship up to seven ProAligners in one package for the same amount - $8. That amounts to a 20% discount for everyone who partakes in such an order.

That happens to be a bedspread that my wife bought for the bed in the guest bedroom. I will tell her that you are interested in a new blankey and will let you know if she will part with it. Like those flowery thingys, eh Jeff? Somehow, I knew.............

I got one, Stan - came off my '00 Bird. It has two plugs - is that ok?

The tool is 12" long and has two scales - a large one for viewing the tool when it is placed in front of the rear wheel, and a small one for viewing the tool when it is placed behind the front tire. Expanding it to a "Z" configuration enables it to be positioned at various heights to make it work on many different bikes and to keep it upright. It fits in its own clear plastic holster and the instructions are included. It's so simple to use, even I can use it.

Please see my thread in the For Sale/Wanted section. Thanks. Joe

I'm pleased to announce the launch of our new website. This is the tool that makes wheel alignment simple, quick and accurate. You never have to wonder if your wheels are aligned because the ProAligner can tell you within 10 minutes, anywhere, anytime, every time. Check it out here http://www.proaligner.com/index.html I'll be happy to take your orders. Thank you. Joe

Joe, I've been using this http://www.goferauto.com/47dusufaad04.html for many years with excellent results. You will also need product # 4910 as a prep. These are available at most auto parts stores. This stuff sets up in seconds, so get your shit together before you start. It works on all abs stuff, as well as many other materials.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycles...6.c0.m245.l1318

I'm listing this for a friend. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycles...bayphotohosting

Excellent topic. To properly train one's muscles, we need to know what our maximum comfortable braking force is. Obviously, this force varies with the individual, so it must be practiced and learned. The best way to achieve this is to set up markers that measure braking distance. Approach the first marker at 30 mph and brake as hard as you are comfortable doing and come to a stop. Place the 2nd marker there. Next, approach either marker at 30 mph and try to stop before you reach the other marker. Continue this procedure until you feel you have reached your MAXIMUM comfortable braking pressure. Repeat the test from 60 mph. This pressure - using both the front brake lever and the rear brake pedal - is what we're trying to develop into an instinctive reaction, one that doesn't require or permit thinking. Pulling in the clutch lever is also recommended, just in case you don't automatically close the throttle. Don't worry about shifting down - you've already got enough going on. You're only focus is on stopping in the absolute shortest distance. Squeezing the brake should be a gradual operation rather than a panic squeeze. This prevents wheel lockup. As speed is reduced, more braking pressure can be applied so that maximum pressure is being exerted at wheel stop. This same procedure is used when braking in corners, except in reverse. Maximum braking force is applied up till turn-in, and then it is decreased gradually as the lean angle increases, all the way to the apex. This too, takes a lot of practice. On each of your next 10 rides, practice emergency braking so that you get a better feel for this procedure, and then repeat the test to see if you've improved. Keep a written record of your stopping distances so that you can compare notes. Odds are, the more you practice, the shorter your braking distances will become. And then practice emergency braking on every ride, just to keep those memory bytes alive. Make sure you initiate braking each time at the same point in relation to the marker, throw out the shortest and longest braking distances, and average the rest. The more test runs you make, the more consistent you will become and the better your results will be. As others have noted, if you frequently ride at 90 mph, practice emergency braking from that speed as well. Duh.

Have you tried revving the engine above the 3-4K rpm level where you feel the most vibrations? Do the vibes dissipate above 4K rpm? Balance shaft problems often cause vibrations in the tank and hand grips in addition to the footpegs, but it doesn't sound like that's the problem. Another thing that causes vibrations - in addition to a rattling sound in the engine - is a bad lifter. It will cause vibes from 3K to 5K rpms, peaking around 4500 r's. But, it, too, doesn't exactly fit your description. Have you checked all the fasteners for tightness? As others have suggested, the chain sounds like the most likely culprit.

I have a new one with keys.....

Got one.

Tks, BarryG. He's wanting the S model, but I'll let him know about this one. Good lookin' ride, tho.......