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partsman

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Posts posted by partsman

  1. If your referring to Racetech Gold valve kits, they're the same. Slight different #'s in fork springs and damper originally but same length,same spacer on top.

  2. Ballistic has shut down I just found out. There are some killer deals up here from my CDN supplier, I don't expect inventory to last more than a coupl e days. I 'd check around to see if the same is happening below the 49th. I'm offering 60% off through the dealer I work at. for example an EVX12 8 cell YTX12/YTX 14 replacement $118.95.

     

    When or if you need to charge a LifePo4 battery they need to be balance charged. 

    This is Ballistic current state of their website https://www.ballistic-batteries.com/main.php

    So no warranty, but I'm getting one.

  3. Jon, I'm not really in need of anything but the single stage lock up intrigues me, but have no idea if it will be helpful for my set up, never used one before. Right now the bastard race bike won't even start.

    I'll take the mirror block offs. My shifter is elec over air (Pingel, not crazy about it) but I bought a co2 regulator to go on the standard size bottle.You running a small bottle under the seat? I was thinking just using a paint ball bottle. Pm with prices.

    Also, if your on Facebook, there is the Modified Blackbirds page, should be able to move the stuff there.

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  4. It's not that bad, hardest part is knowing whether you have the adjusting pivot just right. I think I looked at how much was showing before I took it off so I had a guide to re-install. Had the manual right there but you know, who wants to stop once you're moving? Must have worked, It's never wobbled on me.

  5. The small Battery Tender jr, is just a maintainer,which is fine if your voltage doesn't drop too low,say below 12.2 ish. The Optimate 3 is an actual charger,the are many different Optimate charger now, but at a minimum the 3 is great. Yuasa has a couple,they have a new 3 amp charger,desulphate mode one. Ctek is another good one,been using one of those the last couple years. Optimate is the brand dealers HAVE to use here (Honda and Kawasaki for sure,can't remember what Suzuki and Yamaha insist on) to claim warranty ALL stock batteries.I have recovered a few customer batteries and one of my own but usually you just get 3-6 more months out of it.

    I have also had a couple die(1 Batt Tender,1 Yuasa) but they were both past warranty .

  6. 21 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    They can and I have.  Unless the CBR injectors have something about them that would be damaged by soaking, that I don't know.

    I tried when mine were plugged,then 2 different bike mechanics told me I can't,electronic injection and  they only open when told to basically.But hey man I'm all for finding a way.I only soaked the bottom half below the connector.

  7. Switch the #4 with another injector.And yes right side is #4.As for the coils that would be rare,did you use the same cap? Those caps also tend to last forever but just trying to think all possibilities.

    If it turns out to be the injector they are exactly the same as Busa's and some GSXR's.

    I had mine flow tested by a friend who owns a shop,17 years old and 64k kms and they were fine.My mistake was in not getting them back fast enough since the solution they clean them with will plug the little bastards to their death if left for a few weeks.Got a used set,all good.

  8. $450 Cdn + shipping,don't think so.Plus working at a dealer I can eventually get one much cheaper but our sole CDN distributor doesn't carry them anymore,so a special order would take months in which time a used one is bound to show up.

    Anyway looks like I don't need one,the shorted wires appear to have ended at the adapter plug.I had a spare plug and it powered up with a 9v.

    Still have to see if it will take a new map but it's got power so I hope it will eh.

  9. You may very well only need frictions and springs.Steels are pretty durable under normal use (ok the fact you got 200,000 k's is more than proof enough),check them for warping.It's an easy job,the longer you soak the frictions the better.12 hr minimum.My race tech guy at work says the drag bikes he used to build they would soak the plates for 2 days.I can't tell a difference between 12 hrs and 2 days he built some fast shit.

    BTW, you get about 199,800 or more km's than I do to a set of plates.I use Kawi friction plates but just to save money,not sure which are lasting longer but it would lean toward the Honda frictions.

     

  10. Wasn't me,I had 149 hp.

    You'll need A LOT OF WORK to break 200,namely nitrous or turbo which require more mods to handle it.A stock speed limiter bypassed ZX14R which are known to put 193 or so to the back wheel has hit 198 with a small guy on it.You'll never get near that on motor.

    I just had mine ported and 2mm bigger JE piston installed and shaved the head .0015,hoping to top 160 hp but will have to wait a bit for the dyno session.

  11. 55k km or so, needed 3 . At 64,500 now and about to check them again.

    Not everyone is that fortunate.Worth checking at that mileage.I don't know the life of my bike for the first 49.000 km, me thinks the p.o. may have slacked on maintenance,comp was down too,about 155 each cylinder.

     

  12. Been down a similar road already.When I put rings in 10 yrs ago we pulled 1 layer out of the head gasket,when it came off next about 5 yrs after that I found signs of a leak between #2 & #3 .Since I'm going 2 mm bigger now it made more sense to me to maximize squish area by shaving the head instead of going to the thinner gasket.I have a friend with his own bike repair biz who has a dyno and has built numerous race bikes and his own turbo ZX14 who confirmed this was the better way to go.

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