sandman

I'm also interested in hearing your feedback when you have time...

Success. As it turns out, it was the test plug connector issue after all. Even though I've been through the fix with my previous 2000 XX, which gave me plenty of warning with the FI dash light flickering, I had zero warning here. Just go/no go situation with the turn of the key on a ride. Here's the take away lesson for anyone else dealing with the same problem and reading this thread. I've certainly learned a lot about my bike's electrical system. 1.) 2001 models are quite vulnerable and known to have test plug issues, as well as earlier XX's. Unwrap it and solder it together first! 2.) Don't assume as I did that your factory test plug connection is OK even if the bike is low mileage and hardly ever been wet, and if the wires and plugs look corrosion free. These bikes are now 15 years old + or -, and that connection is likely to bite you until dealt with. Thank you kindly all for your help, advice, and suggestions. I've only communicated directly with a few members here, but your generous help has been greatly appreciated- this is a truly great community. I hope this thread helps other members, and I am glad to remain a long time and committed XX owner.

Thanks for the advice, BanditSid + Superhawk996- I'm going to go ahead and do just that. I had uncovered the plug and visually inspected it, and seeing no corrosion just recovered it. Will remove plug ends and solder it together and report back. This could be it- exited by the possibility of solving this.

I greatly appreciate your specific help and suggestions, superhawk996. I checked #4 Br/Bl terminal of fuel pump relay- it shows 3V, and flashes to 12V briefly, then back down to 3V. Yes, the fuel pump relay clicks on and off with key on. At the fuel pump connector I get 0V- with key on, the fuel pump relay clicks and I get 12V briefly, then back to 0V.

The following was suggested by another XX owner: With all the components you swapped out with no success I would suspect the harness at this point. The fuel cut-off relay is a good diagnostic point, there are 4 connections. 1. Br, brown wire provides power to the pump 2. Bl/W, blue with white supplies 12V to a relay contact 3. Bl/W, blue with white supplies 12V to the relay coil 4. Br/Bl brown with black is the ground supplied by the ECM. Pull the relay and verify #'s 2, 3, 4 and see that you get 12V and gnd at key on. If all is ok then check you get 12V at the pump brown wire (this verifies the harness from the relay to the pump). I followed through, with these results: 12V at terminal #2 and #3 (two black/white wires). No voltage at #1 and #4. Where to go from there- what would the next step be?

I admittedly have little experience with a meter, and haven't needed to track something down like this in some 90K miles between the three XX's I've owned. I've already learned a lot, but this has got me frustrated- I may need a dealer technician to solve. Hate to leave my bike off at start of season, have always solved my own issues. Green wire into ecu doesn't match up to pin A11 in my shop manual wiring diagram, and I don't know hot to check continuity to it when I do verify it's location.

Update: I am still looking for the source of the fuel pump-no-prime issue! Here's what I've unsuccessfully replaced trying to figure it out: 1.) all fuses 2). diode -nos part 3.) bank angle sensor - used one 4.) swapped relays between each other, bought a used one to try- no change 5.) used ECU plugged in- no change 6.) right switchgear assembly (kill switch)-nos part, not the problem 7.) factory test plug unwrapped- no corrosion what so ever, no FI lights ever Fuel pump hot wired: primes as normal, bike starts up. Everything else works electrically, as normal. Something is stopping the fuel pump from getting power. This is a 10K mile only XX. What am I missing here- what else to check or try at this point?

I greatly appreciate the offer, but I just sent my ecu to John01XX in FL to plug in and test. Yes, something failed suddenly- I rode 45 minutes, parked it, tried to start and got no fuel pump prime, only strong cranking. Absolutely no prior warning signs, no typical test plug dash flickers (been there with my '00 model). Test plug unwrapped and visually inspected anyway- absolutely no corrosion, leads are super clean. Fuel pump hot wired and functions normally. Worst kind of failure- completely normal running, stop, then no starting, instant electrical failure of some kind- stranded. This will be interesting either way, depending on what John finds with my ecu- go or no go.

I also have a 2001 model with the same exact problem, and am still struggling to sort it out. I've already gone through all of the suggestions posted here with no success- is it a known issue for 2001's to have ecu's fail?

I've now exposed the test connector completely. It's different then earlier XX's on my 2001 model- mine has 2 different gauges of all green wires, 10 total (row of 7, and 3 in other row). No visible corrosion, definitely no signs of burning wires. As long as it's exposed, I want to eliminate it as a possible cause for my fuel pump not getting power. Question: when you soldered all the wires together, did you use something with serious heat such as a butane mini torch? There's no way a Weller or similar soldering gun or iron puts out enough heat to solder 10 wires together.

"There's a small bundle of wires running up to a red connector next to the battery, disconect that to gain slack." To those like me who are jumping in to this fix, this is the wire section that goes up and connects to the fuse box. I also gained needed slack by removing the rubber strap that holds the two large black boxes (ecu's) down by the tail light. The dreaded test connector can now be accessed, the wiring harness now drops down enough.

Excellent post- thanks for taking the time to do it. I also own a 2001 with a strange electrical issue, and after eliminating other possibilities it's seeming to point to the dreaded test connector. I've been through this with my 2000 model and I also thought our 2001's didn't have it- wrong. I think it's now an age related corrosion issue. So un-Honda like and frustrating!

RXX: "that happened to me"- are you saying that your fuel pump wouldn't prime (but worked when hot wired) due to a bad bank angle sensor?

Bought a nos oem right switch assembly and plugged it in. I can now report that this issue is not related or caused by the right switch gear- anyone want to buy a new one? I'll give you a deal. My next direction will be to look into the wiring harness plugs and connections (test plug)- I've seen pics of melted plug connectors and am starting to think this might be the problem. Seems 2001 models are not immune to this area.

Great reply- thanks. I think you're right about the stop switch. suppose it can be ruled out? No alarm and no tuner installed. The only thing that was changed with the wiring was the addition of an Admore led light kit for my Givi top case. It taps in to the rear turn signals and brake light wires, and has never been an issue- I don't believe that wiring would affect the ecu or fuel pump, would it? I'm really stumped and guessing at this point.

Here's my situation: my 2001 XX with 10K miles has left me stranded. 40 minute ride, functioned completely normally- no warnings or clues. Shut it off, went to restart 15 minutes later- engine cranks and cranks strongly, but would not start. Fuel pump won't work, you can't hear it whine and prime! Trailered bike home and started diagnosis: fuses all good. Hot wired the fuel pump- it definitely works. What could be stopping the fuel pump from getting power? I checked bank angle sensor with a meter, it seems good, the bike has never been down. Swapped the four relays between themselves, still no go. I'm leaning towards replacing what I suspect now- the handlebar stop switch assembly. This bike is now 15 years old, and that could allow cranking but no power to the fuel pump, right? Your thoughts, opinions, and advice greatly appreciated!

I appreciate the helpful replies, guys. Thanks to Mr.rockmeupto125 for setting me up with one- I've got it found.

For sale: used set of Helibars. Excellent undamaged condition, all internal threads good, never down- no road rash on ends, not much use. $140 total delivered to any USA lower 48 state. sandman800ss@hotmail.com Update: received zero response here, put them on eBay at same price, SOLD in 24 hours. Sorry guys, I had to do it!

Looking for a Fenda Extenda. I realize they're on eBay, but those are UK sellers and I'm located in the USA. New or used, if available: sandman800ss@hotmail.com

I'm in the process of replacing an integrated led tail light with the original stock tail light and turn signals. In my opinion those aftermarket tail lights obviously compromise rear conspicuity and safety. Previous owner cut signal wires off, and I need original turn signals. Question: do CBR929RR and CBR600F4i rear signals interchange, fit, and function on the XX? I suspect that they do.

I'm removing an aftermarket integrated led tail light and turn signals. Want to buy a pair of stock rear turn signals (later style- not 1997-2000 type), and the two rectangular male connectors that were cut off of the harness. These are not the earlier type with male/female bullet connectors. Will need to know condition, price, and your location. sandman800ss@hotmail.com

My exact thoughts- really wonder what the market value is on the Givi items!

I appreciate the responses, guys. Two days ago, some clueless twit in an Explorer pulled out RIGHT in front of me to make a left turn out of a shopping center. No escape path or time, I hit the brakes as hard as I could, t-boned him square. Terrible feeling knowing that your front end is about to be bent hard. XX is wounded but fixable, I was totally armored up and am good to go. To answer rockmeupto125: I just need tubes, not the sliders/lower legs. I believe 1997 clamps and stem are same as 2000- somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Looking for a set of forks and triple clamps (steering stem) for my 2000 model. If available, I will need confirmation that they're measured runout for straight- not just "eyeballed" straight! Also need an oem headlight- not one of those ebay chinese ones. Please pm me with details- it's much appreciated by this long time XX owner committed to many more miles.