blackbd1

i have an '00 XX and am thinking about adding a PC II. is it worth it?? my bike is currently stock, with a k&n airfilter and ngk irridium plugs. it runs great the way it is, but i want a little more. i am told that a PC II on a stock bike does make a difference in mid range power and operating temperature (when the ignition curve is adjusted properly) i love the look of a dual exhaust, so at best i may put slip-ons to gain a few more ponys. i am open for any and all discussions thanks in advance

i like the Mobil 1 M4-XT 10w-30 as i understand it, moly disufide is a molecule that clings to the walls of surfaced to make them more slick. it basically fills in the low spots. in a wet clutch, filling in the low spots would destroy the clutch by making it slicker that greased owl shit. other synthetics that contain friction modifiers such as moly are used by some cyclist, but they are probably dry clutch harleys and the such. this synthetic (Mobil 1 M4-XT) is designed for use in wet clutch bikes. (contains no moly) actually, my bike seems to shift easier with the Mobil 1 in it my 2 cents

silverbird there is a correction to the statement above, Mobil 1 has a motorcycle synthetic named MX-4T or M4-XT something like that, and it contains NO friction modifiers (i.e. moly disufide). this oil is designed for wet clutch motorcycles. i have had it in my '00 XX for 8k miles and it is doing great. hth

to northman a while back i made an excel spreadsheet of the gearing setup per my XX and my buddies busa. your information and mine are exactly the same. i am actually wanting to drop a tooth on the front, i would rather be a little quicker (my preference) i was wondering, if i dropped the tooth and it changed my top end by 10%, would that correct my speedo?? if it is read from the tranny it will. am i correct in thinking this??

i must say this according to your pegged speedo (25 miles in 4.5 minutes) yields a speed of 5.55 miles / minute that translates into 333.33 mph come on

i have just read some very poor physics above for starters: at 200 the 8-10% difference isn't do to tire slip, it is due to inaccuracy in your speedo this is why they use timing gates to measure speeds at the flats and not mechanical speedos so your indicated 200 was actually a more true 180 (assuming 10%) my 00 XX is a true 142 mph at an indicated 155 mph (@ 9.2%) secondly, the factor of three business aerodynamic drag increases as the square of the velocity of travel so if your speed doubles, the drag increase by a factor of 4! the bottom line is the relation between hp and velocity (including drag) is that your hp required goes as the 3rd power of the velocity (factor of three is actually a 3rd power thing) meaning if you want to double your velocity, any velocity, you need 2 to the 3rd power (8 times) the horse. so, if it takes 30 hp to travel 100 mph, it will take 240 hp to travel 200 mph to do a specific example, if the busa requires 186 hp to do 200 mph, provided that its gearing will permit it, it will require 200.301 hp to do 205 mph. thats 14.3 more horse to gain 5 mph at that speed. you would need 15.0 more horse yet to make it to 210 (215.318 hp) FRICTION IS SUCH A DRAG!!!! my 2 cents

i am thinking about putting the xenon bulbs on my 00 XX. do i want to put the "true" HID system or the autostore blue bulbs please advise

look at my post below titles "FI LIGHT" my 00 suffered from the same, you are in the early stages of the problems to come. wireharness is what eventually fixed mine blackbd1

bike looks great, how did you polish the rim of the front and back wheels?? my bike is still mostly stock with the tank bra and a corbin seat. i also replaced the two engine covers with those from a '98 XX (all black):cool:

i would like to add that on one of the previous trips to the local honda dealership, they replaced the ECM. the light stayed off for @ 100 miles, then came back on. things they tried: 1)cleaned up the main ground on harness 2)added a ground wire to harness for new additional ground 3)ecm 4) front sub harness ..... 6) complete harness as i understand it, this is a grounding problem within the harness. if you know anything about electronics, tracking down a floating ground loop can be a night mare. this electrical system has analog as well as digital devices on it. best of luck to you finding the problem.

the FI light started coming on and going off at various times when the bike was running. usually it took the bike to warm up before the light would come on. right before they replaced the harness, it only took minutes and the light was on. if you grabbed a brake, the light got brighter. turn a turn signal, the fi light was flash opposite the signal, turn signal and brake, the fi light would flash in time with the signal. all the while, the bike ran beautifully. i live just out side of St. Louis, MO. one call to American Honda and i had them anxious to fix my bike. the problem is, i didn't call American Honda until after the dealership had had the bike 4 different times

it has been awhile since i was last here. 3 weeks ago, honda replaced the wire harness (under waranttee) on my '00 XX. So far, NO FI LIGHT :grin: this problem started in may '02, and on the 6th stay at the honda garage, zip zap zoom i am back in business. also, i replaced my cct after i got the bike back. honda claimed that the noise was typical and didn't warant any attention at this time. so i bought the cct (@ $30) and after 20 minutes it was installed. i noted that they was a substantial difference in the spring constant from the old cct to the new one. just thought people might want to know to all, keep the shinny side up and the rubber side down :cool:

thanks for the part number verification it has been ordered (should be in tuesday of next week) thank you for your advise

please direct me to your site??

that is my thoughts as well do you have a part number??

main bearing, i certainly hope not and even doubt. this noise has been present sense 3-4k miles, and having a main with a bad or a flat spot in it, would certainly make more noise and would have even cause more problems after then last 6k (running it at times into the red) the area honda rep rode the bike and listened to it when i discribed to him what i thought it was, he somewhat agreed. i said that i thought that the slide was not keeping sufficient pressure on the cam chain, allowing the chain to flex and slap on the slide and to cause lash in the cam chain train. the fading in and out of this noise is due to a near resonance behavior at low rpms. when rpms are brought up, the slack in the chain isn't as appearant. his only dis-agreement was that he didn't feel as though it was bad enough to warrant the replacement of the tensioner yet. this has been documented at honda

thanks for the url warchild

i will certainly try this thanks for the advise

try here: http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/detail.as...ct_id=CR9EHIX-9 i just bought them for 9 ea yesterday

i have a 2000 XX that has a small knocking problem. No, it isn't a rod. the bike run beautifully, but after it heats-up, at idle, i hear a kachunka kachuka chucka sound from the engine. if you bring it any above idle, it goes away. this "vibration" fades in and out i have been told that it is a cam chain tensioner issue. and that the cam chain rides on a "slide" inside of the engine, and that the tensioner (external) keeps pressure on the chain via this slide (internal) through a rod that connects them. what part(s) do i need to order and replace, what is the approximate cost of the item and how long will it take to replace?? is this something that someone with some mechanical apptitude can change?? please advise...

i have had my FI light on my 2000 XX coming on and going off for almost 2 years now. when the light comes on, the bike continues to run normally. the bike has been in the shop (all under warranttee) 4 times now, and they still haven't been able to fix the problem. as i have read in other posts, it seems to be a ground issue of some sort. when the FI light comes on, turning a turn signal on will cause the FI light to blink. grabbing a brake will cause the FI light to sometimes get brighter, other times to get more dim. it is definite feedback of somesort. honda has checked and cleaned the body ground, have checked other items on the harness, have even tried a different ECM, and a few other things, but it still comes on. it seems to come on more when the bike gets hot if someone has some advise, i would greatly appreciate it.

i have a 2000 XX with 10k (miles) and i am wanting to change the spark plugs. i remember a while back that someone had post a document showing a "short cut" per the removal and replacement of the spark plugs. this short cut did not involve the removal of the lower fairing, the oil cooler and the radiator. access was gained under the fuel tank?? could someone having said information, please advise. thanks in advance