porterb123

Anyone have a spare small fairing bolt...the ones with the dimples. After taking off the bodywork to install the delinking kit, one of these bolts has vanished. Thanks Porter

Cost has not been set yet. I am in the process of talking with the co. rep. . BUT, the whole rational behind getting it done stateside is for reduced cost...at least for me. I emailed "ignition" in England re the kit and it was 300 plus for one setup and 480.00 for the other. I did not investigate further to see the diff. in the 2 kits. But I am hoping to get the kit for less than listed above. Porter

I contacted a brake line company to see about getting an in country source for the XX delinking setup. I am in the process of getting a left caliper bracket from Howies contact in Japan. I will measure the lines and angles of banjo fittings. I planned on a dual line from the front mc to both calipers, with 2 short crossover lines on each caliper. The rear looks like a single line with a crossover...but I have not looked really hard yet at the rear setup. This is not a hard and fast deal yet, but there seems to be some interest in me getting all the info. and testing it out and sending pics. Any comments or suggestions from the group and is there an interest in actually buying the kit...if it works out?? Porter

Not sure where you mean "window". The bars are solid from the grip end all the way to the cylindrical fork end with the pinch bolts. It looks like there is some extra material welded on from the cylindrical part up to the straight grip tube. I have a mig welder and was willing to paint if somthing went wrong. If that suits you...go for it. You can find a weld shop around you...if a weld breaks. In my case it did not even come close to braking...it bent easier than I thought it would. Porter

My HeliBars were still angled down a little too much for my liking. Take the grips and switches and master cylinders off. Put masking tape on the grip area.. take a piece of 1" pipe about 3 ft. long and slip it over the taped area and gently bend the bar upwards. I raised the ends by 1 inch each side. There were no marks/ creases or broken welds on the bars after this. They are more comfortable now and the vista cruise still clears the Givi screen. Also no problems with hose or cable lengths. I used a level on the flat filler ring on the tank as a ref. point..then set the pipe across the bars and adjusted the upward bend until the level bubble was in the same position it was on the tank. My garage floor is not level so I could not measure off of the floor. Cheap comfort mod. Porter

I did not recieve any cables with the bike either...How would I back up the map? Are you saying to disconnect the battery to reset the stock ECU...after taking out the PC2? Thanks again

I did not install the PC2...it was installed by the previous owner, who did not pass along any written material. If I remove it , will it hold the current map? After removal, will the stock ECM adjust for a K&N filter and a 4/2/1 pipe? I would like to get a little more gas mileage and don't mind giving up a few HP. Thanks

I wanted to find out if the gut I bought the bike from lied about the 158 hp and to check the air/fuel map. Went to Lunfords Honda here in Houston. The mechanic who did the dyno run builds motors for road racing and even had a Bird motor on his bench...good guy. Anyway, the fuel map was close to perfect, really flat across the rpm range..no adjustments. 139.4 HP 80 ft, lbs Torque Dynojet 250 machine Temp of 90 F K&N filter PC 2 Yoshi RS3 header system How much HP does the ram air sys. add at speed?? These power readings are not really any better than than the cycle mags post for stock machines. I know the header removes alot of weight that helps in the power to weight ratio, but had assumed more power from this setup. As a side not the mechanic told me about an R1 he dyno'd and checked the fuel map on...perfectly flat A/F ratio and 161 HP. No turbo or nitrous. I asked if he knew what they had done. His reply was they would not say...just wanted to check out their work! Watch out for a stock looking R1 in Houston!! Porter

Just picked up a copy of Sport Rider that has an article on oil types, properties, aditives, ratings, etc. Very interesting. It is a 2 part writeup, with Dyno tests and chemical analysis coming up next moth. They delve into clutch slipage. Should help put a little definative light on the Dino/ synthetic debate. Porter

I have tried to post a reply but get invalid session errors. Thanks for the input guys...seems like a fairly wide variable on mileage and HP. Magazines rate stock HP as 137 to 139. I thought 158 seemed a little optomistic. Being here in Houston at close to sea level helps out with HP readings,but I think correction factors are used everywhere. I may get a local tuner to set it up a little leaner...not the guy I bought the bike from. Can the PC2 have a custom map created on the dyno with a exhaust gas analyzer. Porter

I am still new to the blackbird..I have had my 2000 model for a month or 2 now. The guy I bought this one from had installed a PC2/ full Yoshi RS3 and set it up to run on 93 octane. He said it Dynod out to 158 HP. Does this sound correct? Also I'm getting around 30 mpg around town and 35 mpg on the interstate with 70 to 90 mph cruising. How does this compare to your experience? Thanks Porter