2equis

Would highly recommend it!!! I've got HID on the low beam and am considering the high beam too. They only draw 35 watts so it's easier on the charging system. The XX headlamp reflector is ideal for HID - doesn't blind oncomming traffic (unless your 2-up) and really lights up the shoulders of the road (great for spotting bambi). Check out..... http://www.xenondepot.com Look for the H7 kits....the 4300k kits provide the brightest light while the 8000k kits put out that weird purplish light....which is OK if you are looking for the "bling" I guess. You will also need to cut up the stock headlight spacer to make the HID lamp fit.... Does anyone have the part # for the headlight bulb spacer? I think I paid $6-7 for a spare when I did mine. Good luck!!! Edit...... Just went to this site (1st time in about 8 months) and damn!!!! A plug-n-play motorcycle kit for only $249!!!!! - including a phillips bulb and not some crappy asian bulb - I think I'm gonna do my high beam conversion sooner than I thought :grin:

Good site for Radar/Laser detector information........ http://www.speedzones.com/

For $119 it had better include a "happy ending" :!: :!: :!:

Here's the replies I got 2 months ago :grin: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...t=wheel+weights

This company has been operating for over a decade...under different names and in different states. They make radar detectors that don't detect and "jammers" that don't jam. With all the "farkle" threads lately about mounting radar, GPS, XM etc.. (yes... I have all 3 ), I wanted to share this article and hopefully save someone from getting ripped off. http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleID=8501

Doesn't someone make a weld on nipple that welds onto the collector or header that an O2 sensor fits into? I know I've seen them on race bikes.

Have you checked the connector under the grab rail :?: If you use that area for storage (not recomended) you can jar the connector loose. Used to happen on my ZX11 alot.

What is the part number for the armor all coated plug? Is it faster 'cause it's shiny??? :pointup:

.....what Joe said. You said you put on 1k miles on your bird since the tune-up so I'd rule out a "misplaced" vacum line. However, it sounds like one of the lines is kinked or pinched.

As long as I don't have an epileptic driving behind me I should be OK. Otherwise, it'll make for some interesting pics to post.

Well, finally got around to installing my UFO lights on my '98XX...bitchin'!!! I've got the 2 left/ 2 right LEDs integrated w/ my turn signals and the brake light set up to pulse when applied - Very Bright!!! I had a spare taillight assembly so I "modified" installation a little. I removed the 1157 sockets from the reflector to make the install easier. Had to remove the tail cowl and tail light assembly. the whole thing took about 90 minutes including the solder/shrinkwrap job on the lighting harness. I didn't post any pics or video 'cause my OS shit the bed and I can't find my XP disk to reload. But to sum it up......... Pro's: Unique looking - had 2 bikers in 100 miles stop and ask about them Draws less power then stock 1157 bulbs Safety factor - Pulsing brake light really gets your attention Cons: Expensive - But I guess that's relative Control box not waterproof - It's going on a motorcycle... for 150.00 I should not have to wrap it in a baggie under my seat (maybe plasti-dip would work?) 2equis

Slip-ons or a full system? If it's a full system w/ a K&N then yea, you are probably getting too much air and need to re-jet. How does it idle? check the plug wires? what plugs did you use? etc. etc..

Do you know what size jets your using :?: With slipons there is not much increased airflow even with a K&N so I would suggest 142's and not go any higher than 145's Also, what position are the aftermarket needles set at :?: Who jetted the bike? did they use a dyno w/ a air/fuel meter or the "seat of the pants" dyno?

I'm only good for a minute or two at a time before I run out of road....Damn!!!!

How does this mod affect using the sidestand? With the axle point of the rear swingarm now almost 1" lower does the sidestand still work? I removed my centerstand so believe it or not it's now an issue . Thanks!! 2equis

Thanks Pete - Good info, I clicked on a bunch of the links and started reading about the Purolator Pure Oil filters (they even make a filter for the XX - part no. ML-16817). Whadda ya think? I know Purolator makes good products but this article smells of a "snake oil sales pitch" Has anyone here ever used them? I've been using the OEM oil filter and AMSoil w/o any issues. However, I've never sent any oil out for analysis either.

Given the fact that the XX is technically "discontinued" in the states, it looks like hightechspeed.com rolled the dice and made the choice to design the XX LED boards due mainly to the feedback of the board members here (via posts, emails or hounding them at MC shows etc.). I for one support their commitment and will be ordering this week.

Tim, I don't know much about radar screamers but I'm guessing it's some sort of amplifier (nothing gets past me :grin: ) and that it needs switched 12vdc otherwise it will just keep running whether your radar is running or not. If this is the case then yes, you should power it off of switched 12vdc. The switched 12vdc is the heavy guage red/black wire going into the fuse block to the left rear of your battery. you'll need a 12v test light or a multi meter to find the right wire. The simplest/surest way to do this is to pull all the fuses out of the block (remember which fuse goes where) and turn your ignition on and start testing the red/black wires 'til you find one w/ 12vdc on it. NOW DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!!! Strip about 1/4" of the insulation off the red/black wire under the fuse block. Once you have about a 1/4" of wire stripped take your test light or multimeter lead and stab a hole through the copper strands and poke your stripped accessory wire going to the radar screamer through the hole you just made and wrap the accessory wire around the the stripped red/black wire (make sure your accessory lead going to your radar screamer has a seperate fuse with the correct rating) and flow some solder into the exposed copper, let cool and wrap it up w/ some good electrical tape. - Your done, now just put your fuses back in and hook up your battery and your all set. BTW - Now would be the best time to hook your radar up to the same switched leads so you never have to worry about turning it off again. BTW BTW - just read Pace's post and yes, the correct way to do this is with a seperate relay circuit (mandatory if you are adding anything with a load - e.g. air horns, aux. lighting, radios, etc.). However for your purposes (if you have no plans on adding high draw items to your electrical system) powering your radar/screamer directly off the fuseblock lead should not be an issue - your amperage draw will probably be measured in milliamps(probably in the same ballpark as the current drawn to operate a relay coil). Either way, give a holler if you need more info or pics etc.. Good Luck!!

I wonder if the the MCCruise control head is compatable or can be modified to work with the Audiovox cruise control :?:

Can anyone compare the Avon's and Pilot Road's ? Which tire is stickier and which tire lasts longer?

Stretch, Check out: http://www.xmfan.com There is alot of good (and some not so good) info on XM and installation. May give you some "idears" (OCC jab ) 2equis

Thanks! I'm ordering one this weekend......You can never have enough farkles!!! Now if I can just figure out the trailer hitch and electric reverse. :grin:

Hey Mike... Great setup! I just upgraded to a streetpilot III from an eMap and really have not ridden with it much yet. Whats up w/ the sunshield? Is the display that weak in the sun? (is that just plexiglass heated in the oven?) I thought about connecting the GPS audio to my Autocom but the 2 aux inputs are already spoken for (radar and XM). Terry :beer:

Thanks for the feedback... I guess I'll have to spend more time balancing so that I use fewer weights. I am toying around w/ the idea of powdercoat and didn't take the "scratch factor" into consideration. Thanks :!:

You should have 1 red power lead, 2 green headset leads (different lengths) and the 3rd is for a 2-way radio. Go to http://www.autocomamerica.com and look for the HTML configuration diagram (it's javascript so I had trouble trying to cut/paste it here)