bajjer9

2x4 through the wheel works fine too

approaching 78k on my 97

dunno what year your bike is but if its 97/98 the 99 stator is a higher output. I replaced mine with that year when it died late last year. Just had to cut/splice/solder the wires

well my stator shorted to ground on two legs...the insulation covering the windings somehow gave way as far as the rectifier goes, heat cycles cause the silicone particles to break down at which point the device is affected...sometimes to the point of not working but other times it just takes time for the device to fail...I am pulling that from my early electronics theory classes so If anyone wants to try to add to my description please do so, but thats the gist of it

Please! Not again! regulator/rectifier? Even stator? Is that YOU or everyones? I thought (hoped) going from Ducati to Honda (easy now girls! I'm keeping the Ducs!) would take me away from those issues...........What's the average milage/lifespan of the charging system? well the XX has a bad rep for frying R/R, mine died at about 34k and the stator died at 68k if I recall correctly

approachin 75k now and only had the normal problems...regulator/rectifier, tires, chain, brakes...oh and the stator...thats it, nothing else...I ride my bike every day to work about 175 miles round trip roughly depending on which location I actually have to go to...If I ever sell the XX it will be to get another XX

I had the vacuum tube vibrate off of the petcock once....damn that doesnt sound right....

just removing my switch fron the lever and actuating it several time, then putting it back worked for mine

mine has worked with only the spade connectors and some electrical tape for a while. I would like to say for 3 years but my stator fried it 2 times before i discovered the problem...but it did last 1 1/2 years prior to that

one word...NO...it "might" be but why chance it?

its possible...i have aluminum ones and the vibe (if you can call it that) is the same to me

Dude! No!! I had some and the air valve in my front tire came out!! Coincidence? I think not! Seriously I have nothng constructive to say...sorry...do they look good?

Do a search of jets by author and put Maxx in there...He used a factory kit on his and actually had his right from what he explained to me...He did a really good explanation that helped me with my 97...a 98 wont be that much different...also I found that for the most part the factory kit is the way to go rather than the dynojet

The black wire should be run to +12VDC switched. Mine works. Without the wire run, it does climb to excessive voltage. With the wire connected to +12VDC, it supplies voltage consistent with the FSM spec. The wire needs to be switched (as it is on the 99- bikes) so that it will not drain the battery. I realize you're onto the R1 regulator now, but in case someone else looks for this info, there you are. Well thanks Red, I still have the brand new 99 one and if i hadnt of chopped the wires already I would have sold it...Now I know how to make it work if the yammie unit ever fails!

I tried running a 99 R/R on my 97...failed miserably...blew out both headlights the instant I used em...R/R was giving out a steady 18v...still dont know why...it was brand new out of the box...i chalked it up to the black wire not being connected because thats the only difference between the wiring of a 97 vs a 99 (as far as the reg/rec goes)...using an R1 unit now I started a thread on it several months back

hmmm that may be true for the 99+ but I can personally vouche for the carbed XX...mine works fine and had my stator not gone out and taken the Reg/rec with it would probably still be going strong

I would like to point out it is not necessary to use spade terminals/cut your existing harness...a small screwdriver will help facilitate removal of the existing connectors from the plastic shell connector case...I use an R1 R/R and I still have the stock connector case...If I weanted to go back to stock I could quite easily (which is why I didnt cut the wires on the R/R)

I am in the same boat so to speak. I want something thats readily available...yea sure some oils mentioned (royal purple amsoil) may be good but they are not readily available. I did find one that I am about to try, its called Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic...according to the label it doesnt have the "energy conserving" additives...all the other oils mentioned have the "engine conserving" label on the back except the rotella and i dont like it as much as i liked red cap mobile 1

I went a full year after popping my hyperpro springs in without changing oil...when i did change I noticed a small difference but i assumed it might be because the oil i put in may not ahve been the same viscosity as what was in there prior

Since we seem to have lost some of our links I am putting this one back as it deserves Contact Gary in the parts dept University Motors These guys rock! Prices are way below what I could find anywhere and unlike Ron Ayers they dont make a profit off of shipping, they charge actual shipping costs! These are the guys that made last years Spiegler line kit group buy possible. I have since been using them exclusively! No web ordering but give Gary a call at (701)235-6478

ahh thanks for chiming in John!

Thanks Mike, I will use that as a comparison when I call University Motors...so far no one has been able to beat the prices Gary gives both on oem and aftermarket parts...Heh I should get paid for the plugs I put out

i usually get my DID from whitebuffalo but i notice the ZVM is now the ZVM2 and its more expensive...any idea why?

Since I bought my xx I have used DID zvm 530 chain exclusively. I get about 15-20k on each one. Anyone getting better miles? what chain if so? I was wondering if the colored RK chains would stand up for a lot of miles?

I went with a work bench kit from 2 X 4 Basics Workbench legs Add your own wood kinda deal...I havent gotten the whole thing together but it comes with 4 legs which seem very strong and sturdy even if they are some sort of plastic, and an additional shelving section