bajjer9
-
Posts
1,690 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by bajjer9
-
-
You will need to host your pics elsewhere as all we get are these F@#kin Frogs
Damn'it !!
For the moment I put the pics as an attachment but do you know some easy server able to host my files? :icon_think:
The disks waiting for their new home
Front wheel completed
The Bird pruodly showing its new present
A detail...
BTW... it's so strange: mi friends in Italy can see the "frogs" without any problem... boh...
damn! those are way better than the ones i got from jaws...cheapskate that i am probably couldnt afford those!! VERY nice!!
-
mine have a darkish brown, almost rust like color at the base of the midpipes after 3 years...i think mine was because i am lazy and dont wash it (or didnt as the case may be)
-
You can do it!!
I'll PM you my number in case you have any questions.
apparently I dont need a lot of room to do it in either...Thanks Josh
IMO, engineoscopies are cake on the XX.
what scares me is the valve adjustment...i did my 82 nighthawk (my first bike) from the chilton manual and burned a valve...THATS what scares me cuz I rechecked it several times
-
So who has the bank now? I will need em once J. sends me a replacement head...of course i will put back what i take and possibly add more if required?
-
Let me know when you want to tackle this and I'll load up the toolboxes and everything I can think of in the trailer and head your way. Make sure it's a weekend that I'm off though, or we'll be stuck to a Sunday thing.
I've seen posts of this PAIR valve thing before, but have no idea what or where it is. Bajjer is 97 and I'm 99 and I don't think either one of us have whatever this thing is. Best I can figure out it's an exhaust thing, but neither one of us are 50 state legal. Hell, I'm only 1 state legal!!
sounds good Jeff once i gather up all the materials needed I will get with ya to work something out. I am going to order head gasket & valve cover gasket...anything else I might need?
can someone elaborate what the pair valve thing is? I never paid much attention to it because I thought it was an FI thing...If carbed bird has one why remove it?
-
Do a pair valve kit and change your plugs while it is out.
pair valve?
IMO, the drop the engine method is the easiest to do.
James,
I'll drop my service tool in the box with the head. This is the socket for the locknuts which hold the rear engine mount bolts.
J.
Thanks J. I guess I am gonna end up doing this myself despite my uneasiness...anyone have any other tips?
I am thinking at least carb removal (haha I will do the factory jet kit i have had for two years!!)...
-
So how lucky do ya feel??
Lucky enough to remove the head and replace it (Thanks J). Can the head be removed from the engine without dropping the engine? I am mechanically inclined but that scares me...never took out a bike engine!
-
James,
I have a spare cylinder head. It's off a 97.
LMK if you decide to go that route.
J.
J
Mine is a 97 so I might be interested...how much do you want for it? Is it bare? The more I think about it the more I think I will replace it or have it removed and repaired by a pro. My brother said they weld up the hole then tap it with a machine. Another head would be the best thing in my opinion
-
So I am driving down the interstate when i hear a loud pop noise then what sounds like an exhaust leak. I take the plastic off and check and there is no leak at the exhaust. I remove the tank and the airbox to discover the number one sparkplug had come out. No biggie I thought and I went to the honda shop for new plugs, she needed them anyway. I put number one plug in and it spins and spins and spins.
So now I am stuck with about 500lbs of junk...Can you repair threads in an aluminum head? Do I have to replace the whole head? What are my options aside from lighting the damned thing on fire?!
I guess I shouldnt be too upset she gave me 90k miles....
I dont suppose anyone has a spare head lieing around?....sigh
-
You've most likely got a bad left switchgear. Its happened several times that I've heard about.
I thought I had read somewhere of this happening but wasnt sure...hell didnt even consider it til you mentioned it Joe. I have been putting off replacing it since the locating tab broke over a year ago
By the way Joe, hows that cpu working out?
-
Over the winter, I have to pull the Stator cover off of my 97 and have it powder coated.
I was thinking that the higher output Stator/Reg-Rect combo from an FI model might not be a bad idea, especially since I'm thinking of using this bike as my winter rider, and would want to be able to run my Widder vest and possibly would be adding a set of Dual Star grips to it.
Opinions and thoughts on the subject?
I've been running the higher output stator in my '97 for about a year and a half with no problems till recently. I think its more a reg/rec issue than a stator issue though. Bought one of the cheap aftermarket ones and it's recently fried itself. Still trying to figure it out.
The only connection difference between the 2 stators (older vs newer) is where it plugs into the wiring harness. I cut the plugs off the old stator and new stator and wired the old plug onto the new stator. I have been running my Gerbings jacket liner and gloves, Autocom, and radar detector with no issues. Well...till recently. I still think its just the regulator.
Just to follow up. The problem I was haveing was a combination reg/rec+battery issue. I replaced the battery and reg/rec and have been riding warm and problem free for about a week now. Had to brush about an inch and a half of snow off the bike before I left for work yesterday morning. Electrics are working perfectly. Voltage reading at the battery at 3000 rpm is 13.9 volts with and without gerbings jacket liner and gloves running full draw.
dude for shits and giggles check the resistance from each yellow wire to ground...should be VERY high if not infinity...Thats what took out the last 2 reg/recs I went through (thus the change to the 99 stator). One yellow was shorted to ground...i still had charging voltage when i replace the 1st reg/rec (14.1v IIRC)
I'm sorta challenged when it comes to electrical stuff but wouldn't that also be confirmed by the continuity test between yellow wires and ground. No continuity, not short???
yes simplisticly enough that is correct...NO continuity to ground from yellow wires = GOOD
-
Over the winter, I have to pull the Stator cover off of my 97 and have it powder coated.
I was thinking that the higher output Stator/Reg-Rect combo from an FI model might not be a bad idea, especially since I'm thinking of using this bike as my winter rider, and would want to be able to run my Widder vest and possibly would be adding a set of Dual Star grips to it.
Opinions and thoughts on the subject?
I've been running the higher output stator in my '97 for about a year and a half with no problems till recently. I think its more a reg/rec issue than a stator issue though. Bought one of the cheap aftermarket ones and it's recently fried itself. Still trying to figure it out.
The only connection difference between the 2 stators (older vs newer) is where it plugs into the wiring harness. I cut the plugs off the old stator and new stator and wired the old plug onto the new stator. I have been running my Gerbings jacket liner and gloves, Autocom, and radar detector with no issues. Well...till recently. I still think its just the regulator.
Just to follow up. The problem I was haveing was a combination reg/rec+battery issue. I replaced the battery and reg/rec and have been riding warm and problem free for about a week now. Had to brush about an inch and a half of snow off the bike before I left for work yesterday morning. Electrics are working perfectly. Voltage reading at the battery at 3000 rpm is 13.9 volts with and without gerbings jacket liner and gloves running full draw.
dude for shits and giggles check the resistance from each yellow wire to ground...should be VERY high if not infinity...Thats what took out the last 2 reg/recs I went through (thus the change to the 99 stator). One yellow was shorted to ground...i still had charging voltage when i replace the 1st reg/rec (14.1v IIRC)
-
what color is the wire to the high beam from the relay? what From the switch?
-
So basically.....
Terminal 85 .... is is the ground.
Terminal 30/51 .....is the wire coming from my battery.
Terminal 86 .... is the wire coming from my horn button.
Terminal 87.....goes to my new horn.
Am I on the right track?
ayup!
:icon_clap: -
Rick/Speed99 had a pair of air horns mounted already.
somehow me thinks thats not ALL he mounted...
sorry once again i have nothing to contribute to this thread...
-
try gary at universal motors...contact info is in vendor review
-
It looks like power for high beams comes from the headlight relay. I see nothing else on the circuit with the high beams. Sounds like you have a dead short in the wiring somewhere.
Know where the headlight relay is? maybe i can isolate the wiring from the relay to the highbeam by removing it
-
I cant find my manual and would take a bit to download the one thats NOT available anywhere close to this site.
anyway my headlight fuse blows everytime i flip the high beam on. Works fine with low beam on. Also the horn works with the headlight in the lowbeam position...anything else on this circuit that "might" be popping this 20amp fuse?
-
I had some rearsets that would let you do the GP shift pattern. I never could get used to it so I went back to regular. I got them off of Joe and sold them to JasonW. I'll try and remember the name.
RAASK was the name of them. They were built real good. They used linkage to move the shifter shaft. You could put the arm on the top or bottom of the shaft to go from regular shift to GP shift.
i thought i saw some way back when i first got my xx..gilles i think the name was...definately a european brand for sure even if I am unsure of the brand
-
although it wont help you with what appears to be a stator issue...follow h2o player's post...some good info there
-
I am running the r1 reg/rec along with a 99 stator...so far so good...just shy of a year
I went that route for the higher output since at the time my bike was all I had...i was running gerbing jacket (full not the vest) and gloves
-
There is a redesigned 97-? with a heatsinked case, which I understand, solves the problem.
yea thats what I thought but only saw an 03 close up one time...never saw the Reg/Rec...i think thats why the R1 unit works so well...that and its a steady 13v unit...
-
I am not 100% sure but i think there are 3 versions of regulators out there...97 style 99style with wire coming out of the unit itself and the 03 version which is an improved version of the 97 style.I can only speak first hand for the 97-98 style and the style from the 99...i tried to make the 99 work in my bike but was not successful...the reg is now running furbirds bike so I can confirm it is a working unit.
correct me if i am wrong...
-
I believe both Josh (JBowen4) and Randy (BDAZ XX) have the Renegade's.
I'm sure they'll chime in soon.
Ding! Ding!
Yes I have the Carbon Fiber Hi-Mounts. They also came with mid-pipes allowing them to be mounted in stock locations.
Here's a picture on my bird...
damn josh...i love the red wings (even tho mine are gone now) but the...umm WHITE tail is....ummm
:icon_gay:
Sharkskinz?
in The Garage
Posted
Anyone ever use these guys? I am likely gonna replace all my busted plastic with them but I wonder about fit? Parts411 has great prices on em but they say they are missing radiator mounting tab...anyone have a pic of one so I can judge the difficulty of fabbing one up?