Fast Eddy

I'm rokkin' the Datel... http://store.cd4power.com/cgi-bin/cd4power...d3/Catalog/1042 Mike Thanks Mike... I don't know how much they are at that particular place, because that's not where I got mine... I paid like $42 for mine when I got the bike, if I recall... Mike That company doesn't sell direct to the people so I hit a link to one of their distributors and they wanted $50. I will check one other local shop that usually has most stuff, otherwise I will order one up.

Mine crapped out at 25,000 mi. but I was told by riding with my hi beem on during the day I may have helped it along. Now that being said, I remember how crappy your battery terminals looked when it wouldn't start when loopin'. You should start with the simple stuff like connections, if your battery is more than 4 years old just replace it. Dielectric grease is your friend on all weather exposed connections.

I'm rokkin' the Datel... http://store.cd4power.com/cgi-bin/cd4power...d3/Catalog/1042 Mike Thanks Mike...

Does anyone know of a small stand alone volt meter I could add to my XX. After having R/R trouble I would like to be able to monitor this from the cockpit.

That's how I have mine setup, as well. Why? I thought the PC units alouded you to adjust timing and fuel? so why one for timing and one for fuel?

Is it possible the new brake pads are "breaking in". I have heard of "bedding in" or the surfaces need to mate. Could this be the case, although with the claim of vibe when braking with rear brakes, def look at rear rotor.

I believe that's a Home run. Please do keep us posted, I think it is very cool to be part of a R&D project. I would like to see some new technology happen right hear before our eyes. :icon_clap: :icon_clap:

Your not even down to the ware bars, totally 1K Or let Josh borrow it for a minute

Thanks, hopefully between this compound and the better heat sink on the new one, it will not let me down again.

Hmmm heat sink compound ya say. can I get that stuff at a good hardware store? or is it a electronics specialty?

wondered if anyone would take notice of that... I put that in the shot on perpose to see what would come of it. nice, love the honey brown, good brew! Thanks for the heads up, will keep an I on it.

Well I couldn't bring myself to by another OEM R/R, so I tried the aftermarket R/R and it loks pritty good. :icon_pray: :icon_pray: I was able to get it for $77 local, wish me luck.

But I don't think many people will line up to buy $1200.00 slip ons for a gain of 3-5hp. I was able to get a full 2bro system, jetting and dyno tune for under a $1000.00 and gained 7hp.

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't the forks have to be at the same hight or else the front axle won't go through? With that in mind wouldn't it be more likely that they just didn't get the clip-ons on at the same level? I think I forgot a spacer once when getting a tire mounted and the wheel don't spin well, you would know.

WOW they look cool but big and long. Your seat looks interesting whos is it?

First what is SEAFOAM, and second you only need 91 or 92 octane anything higher is not a performance gain. Octane any higher is only helpfull IF you have a high compression engine or hot engine detonation problem.

From what I have heard all street bikes can gain some Hp (small but cheap HP) from 2 to 4 degrees of advance will get you some HP. Do to emissions most bikes are tuned for lowest possible emissions not best performance.

hey great I in, thanks and changed.

Alpinestars SMX-3 I believe are the ones I bought last year and they are water proof. All the years I was being cheap and buying budget boots boy am I sorry now these are soooo nice and super comfortable!

I have a 16T that is not dampened, but feel no ill affects I have been running those kind of sprockets for a long time. Would I be able to notice if I switched to a dampened one? A friend has a stock 03 XX and I didn't notice any unusual vibe compared to mine when he let me check it out.

Holy crap that is expensive... no thanks till I win the lotto... I am on a budget cause I got married (DON'T DO IT) and now I am poor... but I will look into the RC stuff and see if the miser(wife) will stop spending $$ on shit for the house we don't need long enough to put some chips down on the RC stuff. :icon_think:

Lighter wheels make it easier to transition left to right (less rotating mass), quicker acceleration (again less rotating mass to spin), ALOT better brakes on the front and 100x better front forks than the stock front end. I understand the rotating mass stuff I just didn't know if the RC wheels were lighter or wider or if there was some other advantage I was not aware of SO that said how much $$$ would you want for the RC stuff you have? Also could anyone tell me how much lighter the RC wheels are than stock XX Wheels?

What is the advantage to doing this change?

Would it not be ezer to go fast in a staight line and level line rather than fight the down force of the banking at Datona? you must lose energy compressing the suspension centifical forces and so on?