Fast Eddy

It is possible to trap small air pockets and have it work ok but not good. When they changed the fluid for you, they may have trapped some air. I would bleed the clutch and if that doesn't solve the problem, pull the clutch slave and check the push rod for gunk/problems.

Your clutch is hydrolic, so no adjusting. But the fluid does need to be changed every so often. I use a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid, then fill with fresh and bleed just like brakes. When you see clean fluid coming out at the bleeder you done.

The beads look a little gay but work very well. beadrider.com I think.

Shit I'm so bad/lazy I just colored them with a sharpie.

Oh, even better! I'd go for it! Mike I think I'm gunna

I thought I heard he is a showa engineer working with Harley and has a side biz www.tracksideengineering. I don't know if the prices he gave include him removing the fork legs or if that on me. He did say the valves he uses are from a GSXR.

I was in at the local stealer waiting for some parts. We (one of the parts kids) started talking suspension. He thought I should look into a Ducati rear shock, he thought it was same fitment as the XX. Could this be? Ducati's come with good Ohlins stuff, right? So maybe check the Duc forum for someone parting out a 998. On a side note, I contacted a local suspension guru and he said he could revalve my forks for $160 in labor and $50 in parts.

WOW, I never thought to contact electrosport. I have one of their aftermarket R/R's and it stopped charging after about a month. I switched to a Yamaha R/R and a adapter plug from bartonmd (Mike). So far so good, but I would like a little more voltage so I may get the newer stator that puts out more(I have a 97). I maybe overdrawing, since I changed out the stock 55W head lights for some 100W bulbs from JAWS. When I have my hi-beem on now my voltage drops to 13.3 from 13.8/13.9.

I was kinda leaning that way too... I dremel'd the short side so the second bolt at least catches the side of the Yamaha R/R... I just took a drill and oblonged the holes on the R/R a little then the bolts reached. On the 97 XX I have the stock bolts weren't long enough so I stopped at the hardware store and got some button head bolts that where longer. With Mikes plug, plug and go play... done :icon_thumbsup:

Holy crap, I'd need a moonlighting job to support my tire habit! P.S. thanks for the heads up on the special, just ordered two sets ( one for a friend)

I have run 207's, 208's, and the qualifier and like them all from a performance stand point. They don't last long but I like the handling and traction. I would get between 3,500mi to 5,000 depending on how hard you push them.

When checking the stator output, should you have one test probe on yellow and the other grounded or to another yellow?

I ran 30/30 F/R last year at Road America. The pro's running the track day said unless you are running michelins to set your air pressure @ 30/30. I also used the Dunlop but they were called qualifier. I think the are the same tire your using but named different for the different markets. To be sure there will be tire people there most likely, double check with them. Have fun & be carefull.

The stock front sprocket is 17tooth if you are not concerned with mileage and like excelleration go with a 16T front and 45 (stock) rear. The chains are sold mostly 120 link but you need 110 so you have to remove 10 links from the new chain. FYI if the teeth on your sprockets are not showing worn teeth (clearly visable) save the $$$ and just replace the chain(I replace the sprockets with every other chain). P.S. if you have heat issues you may want to add a product called water wetter made by Redline to your cooling system. It helps heat exchange and will lower your temp something like 20 degree.

Right below the box you type in to post is the attachments box, click browse, select the pic you want then open, then upload and repete.

but the good news is you almost gained 7 HP!!! sweet, good work.

ya OK worked it's way whatever. Ok proper answer, If the relay is going both sides would do it soooo, me thinks you have a bad bulb. when the filament seperates the relay will flash faster than it should, sometimes a filament will flop around and reconnect(ever have a headlight out on a car and tap on it like Auther Fonzerelli and it relights) same thing. when it touchs it works, when its not touching it flashes fast. I'd try new bulbs. Of course I am a hack so I am kinda :icon_duh:

Hey Fonzie, did ya check the obvious... the connections were you plug the mirrors in up front. I know it sound silly but you thought you had your battery reconnected proper when you looped the lake.

Any news?

Stop taking a dump in the sink Yes, NEVER dump where you scrub your fangs :icon_nono:

WOW, Todd that is awsome looking. I remember you telling me about this on the ride back from Ozarxx's but this is the first chance I have had to read he whole thread. :icon_thumbsup:

Who the fuck shaves in the middle of a ride? What kind of happy-ass pussy bullshit is that? Gotta keep the balls nice and smooth. :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: :icon_lmao: didn't see that one cuming!

That does help.... 'nuff said. Thanks. Yes, Dave is doing this all for no profit. He should raise the price a little to ensure he doesn't lose $$ like on the first run of these but he is to nice. "Received a Paypal from: Chris Kunstt,,,who are you on the board???" He isn't able to put all the names with the board names. Is this you?

Hey Fonz, if you battery was only two years old, be sure to check with a volt meter when you get the new battery in. With the short life of that other battery I would be suspicious of other issues like over charging or under charging witch could cause the early death of the last battery. It should be 13.5 to 14.5 when revved a couple thousand R's.