99Birdman

Did we ever find out if the width of the splined portion of the 929 sprocket was the same as the XX? If it is, they should be a direct swap?

Sorry, my bad. I thought Warchild was going to measure his stock gear. I don't think any of the Birds cam with 16s (? )so it must be off a different bike. Now I'm curious. If there is a stock dampened gear in 16t what bike is it off of and what is the thickness at the splines (assuming the diameter at the splines is right to fit the XX)? Warchild, in your original post you said you had a stock one to measure then with the photo you said it was a 16????? Different bike?

I think both Warchild and I measured the same spot (according to his picture). Mine was 19mm, his was 17.5 (both stock Blackbird sprockets). I don't think this measurement matters much as it really reflects the thickness of the damper not the teeth or hub part. The thickness of the hub would seem to impact the things Joe mentioned.

Just rechecked mine - comes out 19mm. Maybe there's some variation in this thickness since it isn't realy critical (not the teeth,not the splines). Wouldn't the more important measurement be the thickness at the splines since this is what would allow the sprocket to "float" on the shaft?

Just checked the one I toke off when I went to 16. I assume you want the thickness of the gear as opposed to diameter of the splined potion since it would have to be the correct diameter or no fit. Anyway: Width of entire gear including cush drive ; 19mm Width of splined portion of gear: very slightly more than 14mm considering all offsets.. On the stock gear the splined portion is offset from each edge by a little less than 3mm. One side the offset is at the gear edge, the other at the spline edge. Hope that makes sense.

Mount with a single bolt (attached to the back of the plug) through the front mounting hole.

My bike had Dunlop 207s on it when I bought it. When the rear wore out I replaced both tires with 208s even though the front was still good. For some reason, my front 208 has worn much more than my rear(front definitly cupped). I probably have another 2k on the rear. Since the 208's superceded the 207's, would it cause a problem to mount the 207 front with the 208 rear? Need to try to get another month out of them before going to Avons.

FWIW - I don't notice any diference in noise between my stock 17 and my AFAM 16. COurse, I'm getting old and my hearing may be going.

Mine dropped significantly (15-20%) but I've also noticed I tend to ride it harder with the added acceleration, so I'm not sure how much is directly due to the gear change. If you ride it the same as before, the drop will be directly proportional tio the change in gear ratio. I think Carlos or Joe did the computation in another thread if you want th exact figure.

I just changed my front (went -1) at 19000 mi. There wasn't any sign noticable wear on the front at that point Check the rear for signs of wear but I wouldn't expect any at that mileage.

Gee, I thought the "lefties" said one of the reasons for going to war was so we could TAKE their oil. ??? :roll:

Thanks, Demon. I understand the "lean is mean" concept. Most of my experience has been with carburetion and adding a freer flowing exhaust usually requires jetting richer not leaner (more air out = more air in = more fuel needed). Must be something I don't understand about the way the ECU and FI work. Not really critical, more a matter of curiosity.

I've been looking thru the maps Dynojet has on their website and the one I got from a board member for my MIG Hi-mount setup. Unless I'm reading them wrong, they all seem to take away a lot of fuel in the 1500-3500 rpm range at anything above 10-20% throttle according to the AAP table. I thought the stock setup came from the factory fairly lean to meet emmisions BS, so why would you take away fuel on a "performance" system that flows more air. The Yoshi full exhaust system map uses minus fuel numbers above 20% throttle all the way up the rpm range. Am I misunderstanding how the maps work?

Gotta agree whith Northman. Thanks for passing along the info, but I have no idea what the fuck you're talking about. I'm kind of new here, but the request for a picture seemed appropriate - your response was consistent with what I've followed in some of the "political" threads. Grow up, would ya!

sorry for double post

Joe knows alot more than I do, but I don't think the stator or the R/R is really not in the cicuit when the bike isn't running. If the battery goes dead that fast just sitting (assuming a full charge to begin with) then, I think a direct short to ground somewher is draining the charge.

Do you mean "sit" as with the bike not running? If so, I'd look for short somewhere before going the R/R route.

As Keeper said, the brake lever is supposed to be different: http://www.2wf.com/articles/bike_tests/440...760C02E55CA.asp See bottom of second page

Hairbear The cable you need can be picked up at the local Best Buy or Office Depot. It's a standard 9pin PC Monitor extension cable male to female. As Joe said, you can download the software from the Dynojet site: http://www.powercommander.com/ If you are running a stock bike except for the K&N, the M102-001 map worked well for a friend of mine: http://www.powercommander.com/102-111.shtml Of course, this assumes you have access to a laptop or other PC you can get within cable distance to the bike. Good luck. Mike

Really like the look. How much troulble was it to install?

test

I went from the low mount D&Ds to High Mount MIG's. Could the extra bend and resulting backpressure cause the drop in "percieved" power above 7K? In any case, looks like the next additon will be a PCII and map. Any suggestions on the best place to order the PCII and does anyone have the Hi-Mount MIG map? Thanks for all the help, guys. -Mike

Just replaces my D&D slipons with MIG Carbon Fibers about a month ago and love the sound. I did notice a significant difference in the powerband. The D&D's used to build steadily until 7000 and then kind of feel like the afterburners kicked in. This is gone with the MIGs. I can't really tell if it's because the D&D's had a flat spot right before the 7000 point (didn't really feel like it) or if the MIG's just don't pull as hard. Without a dyno of both, I know it's kind of an objective feel. Any of you other MIG guys noticed anything similar.

ClearAlternatives makes 2 versions of the taillight. One has red inserts and you uses clear bulbs the other uses LEDs which are clear until on and then are red. I have the LED version and knocking out the bottom of the lens will cause RED light to project on the plate (instead of white). Could be wrong, but I think the insert one will do the same. Some cops may decide this isn't adequate illumination and give you a ticket. Had this happen on another bike.