99Birdman

From my experience those readings are way too low. I would say it's a bad battery. FWIW, I just went through the same thing. Bike would start normally except when the fan was running (as in immediately after turning the bike off on a hot day). Battery wouldn't put out enough until the bike cooled enough to shut off the fan then it would start normally. My voltage readings were 12.1 with the key of and 11-12 with the key on(well below what the manual called for). Also, I would get an intermitent FI light while cranking on initial start which would go away when the bike started. Replaced the battery, all's well.

What kind of shape is your chain in? Any bad links or tight spots?

I could be way off on this, but wouldn't you want slightly less oil and therefore more distance for a lighter rider? Maybe 155 instead of 150?

I didn't have to remove any bodywork. Only support the front fo the tank. It is the only three wre connector, but mine was inside a rubber/plastic "sleeve" with several other connectors. Had to pull the sleeve back to find it. It really helps if you have a shop manual.

I had been wondering about my mileage as well, since I was gettin high 20's when everyone else seemed to be getting mid 30's or better. The last week, I've conciously been shifting around 3500-4000 instead of my old 5500-7000. Guess what, I'm in the mid 30's now. Go figure. You might watch yourself and see if you started running the gears up higher lately even though your not doing high speed runs. Also noticed I tended to let the bike warm up longer in the winter. Had a definite effect on mileage since I do a lot of short commutes.

Had the same problem on my '99. Checked all the vent hoses and fuel lines but found nothing wrong. After running 2 bottles of Techron (1/2 bottle per fillup) through the fuel system, problem is gone. I'm not smart enough to know exactly why, maybe something with the injectors?

Looks like someone should have handcuffed this guy when he was 5 !!!

The cable is a simple computer monitor extension cable avalable from Best Buy or Radio Shack.

Whether or not it will be a problem will depemd on your local law enforcement. Cutting out the bottom of the taillight seems to be the most common solution. When I changed to a Clear Alternatives LED tailight, I picked up a couple of LED/Licence plate polts from the locla cruiser shop and wired them into the old plate lightwire. Works like a charm.

I just pulled up my PCII software. If I'm not mistaken, there is no way to make it communicate with the USB port even if you have an adapter. The only options I can find are Com1-8 (all Serial ports). Unless you can configure the software itself to access the USB port, I don't think it will matter if you use the adapter. Can anyone else correct me on this? Do you happen to have a Palm Pilot (or anything else running Palm OS) by any chance?

Did you have Nik change your oil?

Details??

OK Nik, the next step is to stop buying and start using. Trust me, you'll find out what you forgot real quick. The one thing you need will be the one thing you forgot.

This was an alternative solution but I didn't want to spend that much so I went with the resistors. You can adjust the rate to whatever you want plus it's less work and a little cleaner (plug and play). http://www.libertek.com/PRODUCTS.html Was going to get them here, I've had good luck with these folks on several purchases before: http://www.streetfightersbydesign.com/stre...libertek_pg.htm

For you, probably nothing. For the rest of us, Blue is much easier to undo. Red often requires heating up to get it to release

This is what I used when I went to LED's. Got mine at Radioshack for less than $6.00 for both IIRC. Just be sure and wire them in PARALLEL with the turn signal, not series. Took forever to figure out what was wrong. As far as heat is conceerned, I've had mine under the tail without a lot of ventilation for over a year with no problems, but I wouldn't put them on top of the ECU or PCII.

Thanks, Todd. As I said, I know zero about F2 carbs (obviously) :oops:

I agree, Brett, your maggots are "romming" in the right direction. I'm not sure about F4 carbs, but normally I'd look for accelerator pump plunger wear. If so, rebuild kits are easy to install and usually fix the problem.

Welcome to the candy store, Nik. $600 first time out of the chute, I do like your style.

Had the same problem. I do alot of short hops during the day and the bike gets started 5-6 times without really allowing for a full charge. Haven't had a problem since I started hooking up a battery tender each night. Hopefully this will take a little stress off the R/R as well.

I used to feel that way too. Since I've been hanging around here, I've begun leaving in on a Battery Tender - not so much to save the battery, but to save the stress on the R/R since I do a lot of short hops daily requireing numerous starting of the bike without the battery ever getting the chance to completely recharge. I know it can't prevent all the overload but at least the baterry is topped of when I start out.

You can get it for the same price from the website (don't know about shipping). Too lazy to look up the site url but just google amsoil. I like the stuff alot. The site explains the differenced between their Auto and MC oil plus lots of other good info on their product.

That's what I've been wondering about since my first post since that is what will dictate whether the sprocket "floats" on the shaft. Also the offset of the gear teeth to the splines (eg. whether the gear is centered over the splines or offset in or out) may be different between models and this would change alignment of the chain (although marginally). The BB sprocket seems to have an equal offset on both sides (splines are indented from the outer edge of the gear teeth equally on both sides). FWIW, I came up with the same 14.5mm thickness at the splines.

Thanks Chris and Steve. Guess I have a project for next weekend.

I have the same wobble. Been meaning to check the steering bearings, maybe it's time. The manual indicates you need a special "steering stem socket" to adjust the torque. Is there another way or do I have to pop for the socket? If so, does anyone have an idea what the cost might be? Also, do you go through the exercise of adjusting the preload with a spring scale as shown?