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97bbxx

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Posts posted by 97bbxx

  1. Since he don't want help and I'm sitting here ready to cry over my carbs. Have any of you ever had an issue not being able to get the carb off. I ve been trying for forever now. I lossened both the carb side and head side clamps with no luck I've damn near lifted the bike off the ground and shit my brains out at the same time. I've tried beating my head against for shits and giggles and I've even prayed for the bike and bowed down to see if it would let me worthy. My next option is going to be strapping c4 to it. But I'm pretty sure once the smoke clears everything will be fucked but the carb will still sitting there attached to the head please help this is kicking my ass and I had it off 6 months ago

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  2. I'm having the same exact problem as we speak. I had the carb of about 6 months ago and it came off easily. I had an aftermarket full exhaust that I installed at the same time I rebuilt and jetted the carbs. But now I can figure out what to do I have lossened the clamps on both sides but I am running out of ideas. If you figured it out please share cause I love my bird but right now I wana throw this bitch in to a lake and say fuck it. I've gone over my service manual 20 times to make sure I didn't over look anything or for something stupid. 

  3. 8 hours ago, jon haney said:

    Thanks, guys.  Appreciate the recognition, but I really can't take credit for the (minor) improvements in engine performance.  I just paid attention to what others here have posted.

     

    97bbxx, if you do bigger pistons, pay close attention to the "squish area" (piston to head clearance).  IIRC, You want about .030".  Really bumped the torque on mine.  Had to cut .060" off the top of the cylinders to get it there, but that was with Wiseco pistons.  Have no idea where the compression ratio ended up, but it ran great on 87 octane for over ten years.  This is not piston-to-valve clearance.  You'll want more space for that.  At least .040", I think.

    I appreciate the info that will come in handy here soon to be able to refrenece 

  4. I've had this bike for two weeks and finally got my new clutch in today but I don't think this was ever changed haha. It was pretty much gone I'd say. I new it was bad because it would slip something fierce in any gear no matter how easy i eased into to it

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  5. 2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

    Northman.  I don't know if his build is still on here or the size he ended up with.  As I remember, he parted the blue Bird out.

    I'll start looking that would be awesome if its still on here

  6. 1 hour ago, jon haney said:

    For cams, you will likely have to send your stock ones to a company that specializes in weld-up and re-grind.  Probably at least a $600 endeavor.  However, you will also need some good head porting to get much out of a new cam grind.  I think someone here once built a kick-ass N/A Bird motor, and said the best flow numbers he could get was no better than a bone stock gen 1 Busa head.

    I was figuring thats was the route I was gonna end up having to go which I'm fine with. That gives me a good heads up so I appreciate it. There wouldn't happen to be a thread on that build would there. I'll start looking itd be good to see what all he did and specs if there were any.

  7. 4 minutes ago, Furbird said:

    Don't know how long you've been riding but don't trust the notches on the chain adjustment when you go to tighten it (which you will have to do going -1 up front.)  My street bird is dead on but my dragbike wasn't even in the same damn ballpark.  My Victory is much MUCH worse though.

    My bird seems to be pretty accurate as well but ill keep that in mind when the new sprockets and chain come

  8. Thats what I noticed with the rears and thats what I wanted to do but I have not found a 16t for the front yet cause thats what I'd rather do.

     

    Ignore all that I found it and ordered it haha I swear I can sit here for hours and not find it. Then I post on here and then search and its the first damn one I look at hahaha

  9. What size sprockets do you guys run i was considering a 48 tooth but I don't want to change to drastically. I want it a little more torque and not to worried about loossing top speed

  10. 6 hours ago, John01XX said:

    Check out the ride events thread and plan on attending NeXXT in Sept right there in PA.

     

     

    Thanks man ima definitely have to go to that 

  11. I figured it out and don't know how I missed it. The wires On the back side of the light hosing were coroded and causing a bad connection appreciate the help guys

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  12. 33 minutes ago, Furbird said:

    Check your grounds for corrosion or just run a new ground to the headlights to eliminate that as a potential issue.  Since you've replaced the low/high switch (hopefully with a new one and not a used one that could have potential issues of it's own),  the only other possible thing could be a bad connection at the fuse terminal but I'm not sure if the 97 has a dedicated fuse for the low beam alone.  Maybe instead of just checking the seating you should detach the connectors and see if you have corrosion inside the connector itself.  I had that on my 99 but the source on those is a terminal that is used for diagnostics on the FI bikes which yours doesn't have.  If you have that, it should be just that connector and not full lengths of wiring that need replacement unless the bike suffered serious neglect.

    There's not a whole lot of us that have had to go internal on these engines as they are pretty much bulletproof, so internal modification help will be few and far between.  It's a snowball effect as cams mean timing changes, jetting the carbs, might as well do exhaust, go ahead and turbo, well this deep let's put a strut/slick/wheelie bars/nitrous and now you're at Kent Stotz. 🤣

    I'll pull them apart and look i didn't check the ground so I'll do that as well.

     

    And yea it is a snowball affect your right haha that gave me a good laugh.

  13. hey guys new to this forum. The names Kevin. I just bought my blackbird last week the only issue I have not been able to trace down is my lowbeams are intermittent which is weird I replaced both the left and right switch clusters checked the wiring to make sure everything is seated correctly and all the pins looked good. I changed both bulbs just to be safe. I have hi beams but still can not figure the other one out. Any hints would be great. Also on a side note does anyone know of a good site for aftermarket parts for this bike such as cams and such. I found a good clutch already but it seems like anything else is hard to come by.

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