[HOW TO: Double your underseat Storage]

Haha ok but after the sumo test, how can I modify this undertray? Other than cut a hole and slap a flat piece of plastic and weld it shut all around. 

 

Something like this

 

[HOW TO: Double your underseat Storage]

Disgusting thread ressurection. I've been thinking about this, I need somewhat bigger space under the seat. What are my options (aside from the elegant Tupperware solution ) - can the undertray plastic be welded? ABS I supposed, can I make into a specific shape, or am I destined for flat pieces and welding. Also, whats some minimal clearance from tyre to the undertray, wouldn't want to have those two touch

[Clear Alternatives light bulbs]

Got anymore pics of that pear white Bird, @SwampNut ? 

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

If going for OEM Bird discs on these wheels, the mentioned adapter would be needed, so that the Bird's rotor bolts have to go somewhere - those bolts are 17mm long, so if the adapter isnt 17mm thick, they won't thread all the way in. What if the adapter needs to be, for example, 5mm - I can only see 2 solutions, one would be shorter bolts, another would be making threads in the hub itself, if that's even allowed, to intervene on a alloy wheel like that?

 

I don't know the basics, for example you mentioned that the factory rotor bolts are overkill - but aren't they crucial, they hold the rotor in place and that rotor needs to be rock solid so the brakes can stop your bike down, or am I thinking wrong?

 

 

 

 

 

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

Thanks for finding that number, I didn't manage to find it, bad google-fu skills  how'd you find it?

 

This would mean calipers on the Bird are 1mm "out" to fit the CB1300 discs, which seems like something not to hard to retrofit?

 

Also, just as a thought exercise from an absolute layman (me), what if I'd want to keep the Bird's rotors. This is the only solution that comes to mind. The bolts on the outside of this adapter-spacer could be any "length" I presume, or whatever other factor matters for bolt strength. But the inner bolt pattern, where Bird's rotors would go - my question is would shorter rotor bolts even be allowed? Many OEM bikes seem to have 17mm long bolts here...what would happen if 8mm were used, to keep the spacer as "narrow" as possible?

 

Second pic is some aftermarket wheel I found - it seems it uses this very specific type of adapter - spacer? 

 

I feel I'm overly complicating this as is, sorry

 

 

 

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

Did some research today at the garage, measured distance left to right inside of the rotors.

 

'07 CBR600RR - 125.5mm

Bird - 134.3mm

 

Now since disc part numbers (and catalog specs) of 600RR and CB1300 rotors are the same, if we presume CB's rotors are 125.5mm apart as well - it would mean a CB wheel with its discs would need approx. 5mm spacer on each side to fit in Birds calipers, correct? Or am I forgetting something?

 

[Front fork settings]

My question to him was as follows;

 

I bought a 10N/mm (1kg/mm) linear springs for my CBR1100XX, weighing 100kg in gear, I'm wondering which oil should I use? The manual recommends Honda SS8 which is a 36 centistokes oil, should I stay within these specs or go lighter? Also, the fork spring manual advises 140mm air gap, Honda says 142, I presume both gaps would work but there's no mention is the air gap measured with or without springs inside?

[Username change]

Can I change my username here?

[Front fork settings]

Commented on some Dave Moss video with my fork issue, he just replied.

 

Spring out is standard procedure for air gap. I would use a 42 to 44cSt oil for those forks.

 

So...he would go thicker than OEM. 

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

Thanks. I'm looking at some bearings catalog, if I'm looking at the right columns, front wheel bearing are as follows;

 

Bird - ID 20 / OD 47 / WID 14

CB  -  ID 20 / OD 45 / WID 12

 

If ID are the same on both...this means axles are the same on both, right?

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

On 10/7/2021 at 1:52 AM, rockmeupto125 said:

Th concern is hub spacing combined with the offset of the disc.  If the discs are the same width apart as an XX, then you can spacer the hub to fit the fork legs.  If not, you're going to have to spacer the calipers to match them.

 

 

 

 

I drew up this comedy of a front view of a wheel...now, if I ever find a CB1300 parked up somewhere, how would I precisely measure the gap from "middle of the caliper" to the hub, in order to figure out if Bird's disc and CB's disc have the same offset?

 

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

Anyone?

[Front fork settings]

9 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

In case you don't know, fork oil labels don't always show the true viscosity.  Way back I found a chart that showed different brands and labelled weights and what the actual viscosities were.  Some were dead on, some were way the fuck off.  Like 7.5 from brand XX was thicker than the 10 from brand Y.

 

Yeah I saw those discussions but I couldn't find cSt rating of Hyperpro's oil, or whatever oil they use under their label. 

 

For my fork service I bought Motul's 5W light, which is around 18 cSt, Bird manual recommends Showa SS8, 36 cSt.

[Front fork settings]

I'll go with their specs, they should know what they're talking about their own product.

 

Although, if I'm not mistaken, this small air gap will stiffen up the front a lot, plus the stiff springs, I hope it doesn't end up acting like pogo, would like to avoid re-doing stuff

[Front fork settings]

Just got the reply from Hyperpro, I gave them my bike's info and SKU for the springs I've purchased from them. They said the following;

 

SAE 7,5 / 120 MM / measured without springs

[Front fork settings]

Service is coming up, bike's going to the shop. I'll be (well technically...they'll be :D) finally putting the new shock in the rear (Nitron), and I'm already running 10N/mm Hyperpro linear springs up front. 

 

Given that I'm planning on running my front fully stock - how do I set the sag, but more importantly, what should I say to the mechanics at the shop when it comes to fork oil, what should be the air gap, should they do the measurement with Hyperpro springs in, or out? 

 

I don't know the length of those Hyperpro ones. What's the length of stock 2002 EFI Bird springs?

[CB1300 wheels for the Bird?]

 

I'm looking at some CB1300 wheels from 2003, thinking if they could be fitted to the Bird. It's a simple 5 spoke design, but anything's nicer than the 3-spoke wheel  looking at some brake disc manufacturer specs and pics, the discs are very different, the PCD, inner diameter, so correct my basic level of knowledge but a CB1300 wheel with the discs and appropriate spacers for the axle would be enough to fit it? I have no intent on de-linking the brakes or changing anything about it, but both bikes have 310mm so I figure the CB rotor would fit on the Bird caliper?

 

Also, from what I've been able to read, the rear should be a direct fit, even the rear discs are the same on those two bikes. Any advice or pro tips welcome

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Removing the EFI fuel tank to route few wires from battery to speedo]

Went over to my friends garage and we started with taking out those 2 bolts holding the tank. The idea was to lift it a bit and route wires.

 

Then I saw the original loom routed down on the left side of the frame, and being unecessarily autistic about making things "proper" I tried to find a way to easily reach there so my wiring can be next to the original loom.

 

And now we're here.

 

 

Let's go!

[Removing the EFI fuel tank to route few wires from battery to speedo]

Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking on going with full removal of the tank, for the filter and all, but I really have no place to do it (bike is in a underground garage in my apartment building) so just propping up the tank a little bit to run couple of wires from battery to the cluster will be enough, I don't want to yank some rubber hose out and then forget where it went or second guess

[Removing the EFI fuel tank to route few wires from battery to speedo]

I'm not exactly well versed in mechanics, but I've read few threads here on removing the fuel tank...and I would like to ask, maybe if someone knows a "trick", how to remove the fuel tank just enough so I can route a few wires from battery to the gauge cluster. Is removing the 2 bolts under the front part of the seat and lifting the tank a bit enough? Or should I take it all down, meaning fuel lines, vacuum lines etc.

 

Thanks!

[EFI Bird, RPM needle, how to install it back?]

Needle works, it's simple actually to make it work back, just start the bike without the needle, turn the key but leave the lights on the bike on, and push on the 0 mark.

 

The project with wifi controlled cluster lights done! What a circus. 

 

https://i.imgur.com/q1Or5pf.jpg

[EFI Bird, RPM needle, how to install it back?]

So I'm messing around with the gauges, I have a spare set as well and I took that one to figure out how do I install the tacho needle back. I forgot what method I used, definitely not "push the needle back in on the 0 number mark" because that didn't work, so I did something else and only got miniscule moves from the needle when I'd rev the bike up, it would go up in small (100 or so) rpm increments. 

 

How does this contraption work and what is the correct way to install the needle back in the cluster? 

[EFI gauges LED color change]

OK just finished the garage test on both amber and my white led cluster. We are gonna be soldering again, these 2000mcd leds are way to much, both pics were taken from the same spot, same exposure iso f everything. It looks drastic on the photo, human eye compensates bit better for this BUT - the difference from rev gauge to the LCD is just distracting. I definitely picked too bright LEDs. Back to solder city

 

[EFI gauges LED color change]

 

But this is a phone snap and I took the exposure down because you know how crappy these phones are in these challenging dynamic range situations. When I took the video of it, it looked better, on this photo it looks as if the numbers and washed out on LCD which is not the case.

 

 

I'll take better pics tonight.

[EFI gauges LED color change]

My first soldering project passed the test!