
fizzy
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Posts posted by fizzy
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4 hours ago, brianmacza said:
so... my carbs are together with 142/145 mains and 42 pilot test, and have started off with 2 1/2 turns on the air screw. I used a sheet of 80gsm paper on the throats of the 4 carbs as a feeler gauge, and they all seem identical so balancing should be a minor issue. I have vacuum gauges to do the finishing polish on that.
Now comes "reassembly is the reverse of disassembly" - Haynes is a prick
Definitely use new o rings on the 2 fuel T pieces.
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41 minutes ago, tomek said:
Size of main jets has negligible effect on mpg unless you go WOT all the time. If bike pulls great at high loads, and you wanna improve mpg, attack pilot jet size and needle position, but leave mains where they are.
I mean carburator like in xx has overlapping circuits that come into play at certain loads and rpm. Size on main jets is the most important in 80-100 percent of the load, but gradually goes to zero at idle and near idle speeds and loads.
This is on my recently on the road project bike and my first time messing around with carbs so any pointers are welcome.
Don't really have a good handle on mpg, but seems a little low. Also, idle is lumpy, although a few days ago finished balancing the carbs with a set of newly acquired vacuum gauges. Haven't ridden it yet to see the results on the road. Pilot screws are all at 2 1/4 turns out. Exhaust and filter are stock.
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Per Haynes: USA mains.....as you say above
UK mains 1 & 4 142 2 & 3 145
My BB ( which the PO said he had "tuned up") has 150s across the board. Fuel economy is not great but power is there and throttle response excellent. However, next time she is apart thinking of going back to stock to chase more MPG since the extra power is redundant anyway.
Almost forgot.......standard needle
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On my carbs the needles look like the one on the left. If I remember correctly, there is also a small washer?
Hold the tip of a soldering iron on the alloy part holding the pin on both sides of the float, just don't touch the float.
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I would build a simple frame with lightweight wood lattice insert. Note: not the heavy privacy lattice. Use super simple hooks or twist clips to hold it in.
Problem with the fabric is if is isn't secured properly all the way around a strong wind will tear it up.
Also, roof should have been "pitched" forward a little, but oh well, never mind.
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FYI: you mentioned wheels and tires, I have 2 sets of wheels and tires for my BB, due to me having a parts bike. Anyway, I am currently riding on the parts bike wheels and tires, almost 10 year old Metzler Roadtec Z6s with almost no wear. Seem fine, I have pushed them a bit, no issues. Figured I should use them up before they get any older.
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Motorcycle wheel bearing removal no special tools, see vid below
Install, just freeze them and use old bearing shell as a drift (ground down a little so it is a loose fit).
FYI, I will change fork oil this winter, thanks for the nudge.
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On 6/8/2025 at 12:32 AM, tomek said:
Too many wheelies perhaps?
I recently replaced some BB wheel bearings. I took the specs off the old ones and purchased genuine SKF off a bearing retailer. Way cheaper than OEM, but not much more than Chinese ebay junk.
Anyway, do you think the rustoleum will hold up on the calipers when you bleed them? I have done some rattle can repaint on some parts of the bike but not the calipers for that reason. 🍺
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No yearly inspection over there?
FYI: my BB discs look just like that. They make a subdued and pleasant whirring sound upon use. Also, plenty of stopping power. I am guessing they and the pads are going to wear out fairly quick.
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4 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
What’s so WTF? I’d rather put up with a ring on my finger than a watch or wristband I have to wear all the time.Exactly, otherwise you won't have an excuse why you were late for the wedding.
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Hopefully, the sump is modded for car use, otherwise, the side g forces will cause oil starvation.
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3 hours ago, jon haney said:
That includes installing it on the multi-tool.
It will take a 90min utube vid to prove to zero it takes 10 secs.
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When paying for a restaurant meal on the line for tips, write $1.0E-2
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On 2/8/2025 at 12:25 PM, DaveK said:
Political derangement is definitely a thing. Makes me smile and sad at the same time when the likes of Black and XXtitanium make a politically deranged post and slaphappy literally up votes it within minutes of it. Posts at 2am, 7am, 12 noon, take your pick. You'd think there was life to live.
Instead - we get nutty AI generated Clinton foundation tax returns posted to see. Sad part... there's not enough education out there to understand that about .02% of what they see on the www isn't real. But... you do you. When your laying on your deathbed you can think about all the great times you had and all the wonderful memories you have of the time you spent... well, posting fake Clinton Foundation tax returns on a forum seeking the adoration of the like of the strangers around you.
I was under the impression most humans matured and evolved as they got older. As their time to spend with those around them became shorter time became more valuable. Just not the case in all instances.
I would rather see the Clinton's fake tax returns than your real ones.
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12 minutes ago, SwampNut said:
TL;DR: The second order of melamine will arrive in a few days.
So a polack and a Cuban walk into a garage...and try to install a laminate countertop. It was going so well, until one of us (me, it was me) accidentally touched the two surfaces together prematurely while aligning it. Fucked. There is no separating 3M super 90 after it touches, short of nukes.
Luckily, I really did that on purpose, yeah, that's it, so I could test the surface. It resists everything so well. It's an absolute win. I can scrape on it with sharp chisels and nothing happens. Hit it with a pointy JIS driver, nothing. It takes hard effort and something truly sharp. I was even able to remove some high end industrial cyanoacrylates with hardly a mark left. Acetone, MEK, and such did nothing to it. I left them on the surface until they dried; nothing. This is what I always wanted.
Use an army of small dowels (1/4" - 3/8") or equal, 12" or so apart to keep the pieces separated but aligned. Then pull out 1 at a time.
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4 hours ago, SwampNut said:
I don't know why you thought that.
Yeh, that's a head scratcher.
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11 hours ago, SwampNut said:
Fuck, I feel dumb. Could have just asked an AI. Formica is melamine. Wilsonart (linked above) is melamine. In fact all the common names from countertop materials are just melamine. The top I used is a single layer of kraft paper impregnated with melamine, and that's why it's fragile. Formica is many layers, making it waterproof and mostly chemical-proof. This is what I need, it will get hit with solvents, adhesives, beer, whisky, and yak jizz. But, none of this:
Acids and Alkalis Strong acids and alkalis can corrode, etch, or permanently discolor Formica laminate. Some examples include:
• Ceramic cooktop cleaners
• Oven cleaners
• Drain cleaners
• Lime scale removers
• Toilet bowl cleaners
• Tub and tile cleanersIOW, probably ideal for this. Also this is just one of many reasons for white. I draw and make notes, then use spirits or alcohol to remove. I can even draw full scale items to template/glue up.
What? You write things down? I thought you were all digital, all the time. Isn't this a step backwards?
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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:
My main workbench is made of three sheets of MDF glued together, and then a top sheet of a surface material. I've tried a few tops, and none are quite right. Currently I have one that claimed to be Melamine, but the coating is ultra thin and damaged super easily. It's currently fucked because a beer foamed up, and I didn't see it, and it soaked in. So-called Melamine that's not waterproof? WTF! I previously used the typical tempered hardboard with a white coating. It's just ok. I prefer the textured Melamine over the slick hardboard, a lot. I tried plain MDF and that was not good at all. Sooooo...
White or off white surface (period, not dark).
Slight texture but not a lot.
Liquid-proof
Mildly tough, I try not to scrape it but it's used for a lot of things and gets beat up
Sheets that I can cut and attach as needed, say 1/8" thick to 1/2" at most, 32x66 or larger
Must be "dead" material meaning no bounce, no resonances when hit, like MDF
I am considering trying this:
I can't find that same thing in stock at any stores. Any idea what keywords I'm missing to describe it? Other ideas?
For some reason your link doesn't work over here. Formica?
For a workbench that will get somewhat beat on, I like butcher block counter top.
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30 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:
Our EV is quite rare and it's half green which is one of the low depreciation colors, therefore it should be worth way more than a Tesla.
I thought all EV's were all green?
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26 minutes ago, SwampNut said:
He's got a Youtube video about it from Big Light exposing the truth and the conspiracy.
Big dark makes the opposite claims. Real truth is only visible when you squint.
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Good stuff, but tell AI, it's out of my hands.
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After I download 147 apps, I plan to let siri decide. I will of course let AI pick the color.
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"A Little Help Here?" - XX Won't start
in The Garage
Posted
When you turn the key, assuming the battery is in fact properly charged, the fuel pump should run for about 5 seconds.
Check all fuses, especially the FI ECU 30A fuse located by itself next to the fuse bank. Since you do have a alighted FI marker light then methinks this fuse probably ok. It is somewhat common for the pump to suffer a wiring fault.
Lift the tank and disconnect the 2 pin connector to the pump. Check for continuity on the green wire to ground and the brown wire for 12v during that first 5 seconds.