rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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www.ronayers.com
www.servicehonda.com
www.umotorsfargo.com
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A YTX12-BS Yuasa is what came stock in my '99.
Ahh...joel beat me to it!
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I just knew you'd appreciate that.
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John, just check your voltage at the battery. That will tell you where else you need to test. If its too high, you need a regulator. If its too low, you have other testing to do.
It would help if you had a full charge on your battery first.
I thought the BEL had a numerical readout, not just a warning signal?
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Forward of the battery, under the tank is a bouquet of connectors covered by a large boot. In there is the one you need..if I recall correctly the connectors are green, but Paul has the right color index for the wires.
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it is a 1982 CB900C
About a year ago I was coming back from Memphis, we were doing 100 to 110mph for about 70 miles when I got back to town the bike was running rough. next morning I check the compression # 4 cyl 0 compresstion, all the other cyl were ok. pulled the engine then the head it had one burnt ex. valve.
my question did running it this hard burn the valve or was it going to burn anyway?
was it running lean. the bike has always run great idel smoth. thanks Ron
If that one carb was a bit lean, running that long may have overheated that cylinder, precipitating a valve failure. Or its possible that one valve was just at the limit of its adjustment due to incremental wear, and the prolonged trouncing took it past adjustment and then precipitated its failure.
Good bikes, but that's asking a bit much of a classic vehicle that's not prepped for it.
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I'll have to disagree with the experts. As I posted in the referenced thread...
"BTW, axles aren't the same, either. But you can use the axle and spacer assemblies interchangably, as long as you use an early axle with early spacers, or a late axle with late spacers."
This is only in my experience, as Northman and I fiddled around in my garage one day installing different wheels and parts out of sheer boredom.
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The cylinder heads are the same with the exception that the FI versions have a hole in them for the cam position sensor.
If you can plug that hole, you're fine.
Absolutely.
You could make a piece to cover the hole. I think I'd look for the sensor plate first and make it simple.
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The sites that I have found that have rate caculators put the spring rate in the 1.20 range. I was just curious if anyone had anything to say whether that sounds about right as well as the recommended spring supplier for the forks.
I'm no suspension expert, but from personal experience, I'd suggest that's way too high a rate for the forks to be compliant. I changed from 1.0 to 1.05 and was able to notice the firmer (read as "less comfortable") ride with 475 pounds of payload.
Stator for 2000xx
in The Garage
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You real sure on that one?