rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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Never seen or heard of anything but 17/45 as stock in North America. Folks from other areas, Australia for one, have told me they had an option of 44 or 45 for rear sprocket size. There were no options on anything here. You wanted a different color, you waited till next year....maybe.
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Correct, but I sure hope they aren't charging you upwards of $200 for a chain.
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So I went to the RV store and asked for 2.125 grease seals. Slide the hub on. Fuck. 2.250 seals. Pull it out, wait yet another day (been chasing these fucking seals all weekend), get them replaced.
So they gave you the same size GREASE seals as the OIL seals, instead of the size you asked for?
Nice.....
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17/45 in North America.
If you are still considering one of the chain sets you mentioned, the "set" part means that it comes with sprockets.
Because of your proximity, I'd recommend White Buffalo Racing. They generally have the chain and the sprockets, although the front won't be a Honda dampened one. Remember also there's probably minimal wear or need to replace of the rear sprocket at this low mileage.
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Here's one for you.
N-M-UH
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Cripes, no, for crying out loud. Its not meant to function above 15,000 feet. Besides, fuel injection won't work with fetzer valves....they have to be pressure balanced on the front and back sides. The spring is just barely visible inboard of the SNIP tubes. Its a weak gold color and the copper colored brass debridement shims are right next to it.
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You're screwed. My guess is the bi-directional spring on the auto-enrichening servo is stuck or broken. You'll have to get rid of the pipes. As a favor, I'll send you a pair of stock pipes, which is best for your machine. No charge, just box up your old pipes and send them to me. I can use them on my snowblower, or something.
Really.
All the XX's run a bit rich. Not much you can do except to blow it out with a good run down the highway once in a while. Or get a Power Commander.....
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Several people have had ignition switch problems. Mine is occasionally notchy. It helps to keep it well lubricated with graphite lubricant. Generally the problem manifests with an initial difficulty inserting the key, then being unable to turn the key once its in. Slightly turning and making sure the angle of insertion is straight can be beneficial if you are just having difficulty inserting the key.
Forrest did a nice write-up here. Pictures are nice, but not really necessary.
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...&hl=tumbler
Do a search on "ignition" or "switch" in the garage and you'll probably find more references.
If you can have it replaced under warrantee I'd say go ahead.
I've seen some unusual behaviors when using the key in the gas and seat locks. It helps to press down on the cap or seat when you are turning the key to open either, and simply press down on the gas cap to close without using the key at all. The key is long and relatively soft metal, a combination making prone to disalignment and potential failure.
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Thanks for that evaluation.
Are you gonna build us a super-duty better one?
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I checked the thread, and I read it as 3 to 2 against doing anything with the clutch.
No matter, its your decision, and certainly not a bad one. Its never a bad decision to replace components that normally wear. Unnecessary, perhaps, but not bad. Make sure you pull your clutch rod completely out and clean it.
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How many miles on it, for crying out loud?
I've never had to replace a clutch.
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I was putting new brakes on the boat trailer (another long fucking story), and ordered a kit with oil bath hubs. Trouble is, the oil seal is the wrong size. So I wonder if a special spindle is required for the oil bath hubs, or what?
I know absolutely nothing about oil bath hubs, so proceed with caution. An oil seal often has two sealing rings on the lip, and if so it has to bend over a bit. Because of that, they often appear to have more material..ie, a smaller hole than needed upon cursory examination. They are also tighter than grease seals, because oils a liquid rather than a paste.
So did you just look at them quick and they look too small, or did you actually try to fit them?
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The shop manual says there's 7 disks and 6 plates.
The Ron Ayers fiche say's there 2 plates and 4 disks(2 of each kind)
What that hell?
Sorry I'm a little late on this one.
The fiche is just an artists representation. Repetitive items aren't pictured, so you can't use it as a definitive guide. For instance, only one clutch spring is depicted.......you know there's six.
Why in the world do you need to replace all your disks and plates??? :icon_think:
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I need to order a new rear axle bolt and nut....crossthreaded mine......violated simple rule of tightening by HAND first....then using the torque wrench......anyway need new parts.
Does RonAyers deliver relatively quickly? Local parts dept at dealer is saying one week but who knows.
Any recommendations on online places?
Thx.
Local dealers have ordered parts as "vehicle out of service" for me. I pay a 10% upcharge and the extra shipping, and get it next day if the regional warehouse has it in stock. Might ask them about it.
Perhaps some current or ex dealership employees could chime in.
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I had these guys straighten my polished rim. Did a super job. Think I paid about 130 bucks in 03. They claim to hold closer tolerances than factory specs. I believe them. Can't tell where I smacked the chuckhole.
I know where you smacked the chuckhole. I was right behind you, and I think you got it the wrong way round. That chuckhole smacked YOU. I thought the two of you were going ass over tincups.
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Some folks who practice religious chain maintainance have claimed nearly 30 thousand miles from a chainset. That's constant oiling with an onboard automatic oiler. In most instances I've found the chain well on its way out between 15 and 20 thousand miles.
The indication that a chain is worn out is not just the "replace chain" marker on the adjustment scale...that's merely one part of the equation. There are parts of the chain that don't wear consistantly, so there may be chain "stretch" in one area and not in another. This will give you a tight section and a loose section....or several along the length of the chain. You might notice this as a change in the pitch of the chain noise or a grrrrnch kind of sound/vibration that's cyclical and roadspeed related. You might also feel the bike slow down or lurch with regularity when you are traveling slowly with minimal or no power (such as clutch in, coasting to a stop).
I'm not going to go into all the ways to check a chain here, as there are several, and covered in other threads. At the mileage you have, I'd suggest you change the chain and front sprocket, and inspect the rear. The rear sprocket typically does not need replacement which each chain, but the front does (at 17/45, it makes some sense that the rear wears at 1/3rd the rate of the front sprocket). I think you'll find your XX is notably smoother and quieter with a new drive chain installed.
One more thing....a chain wears faster as it ages. So your chain which was fine at 16k may very well be much worse after only 3k more miles.
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The XX proportioning valve is not in any way adjustable.
The distance from the caliper of a delay valve or proportioning valve is inconsequential in the small distances necessary on a motorcycle.
"Well, it seems that nothing on paper is for sure and the only way to find out is to build it and see how it goes. Scarey thought throwing money and work for an unknown."
Pretty much my thoughts. Its certainly doable, but I'd push you to try to stay as stock and simple as possible to get the task accomplished. You're not trying to build a one-off custom ultimate farkle. You're trying to make something that works.
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Thanks for the link, Shorts, and due respect to you for your perseverance.
I don't think too many folks here are really up on what bore sizes will work with multiple difference sized pots. I certainly am not. You can do the math to see if it will theoretically function, but a lot of it is in the feel and travel experienced, and that's a function of the leverage curve provided by the individual lever/master cylinder bracketry. That's pretty deep into engineering, when the only viable answer is that you'd have to try it to see if it works, which is a lot of work, and a lit of "if." There's nothing wrong with the idea....a brake system is a brake system, and fairly simple...but voodoo alteration of the XX system is something that most folks here haven't done. We have some really smart folks here who could do that stuff, but its just not an application in which modification or experimentation is popular or needed by most folks with the XX.
That's why I recommended the thumb brake. It allows your braking system to remain nearly all stock, with the exception of the master cylinder, minimizing the potential problems that may/will surface. I'm surprised you considered the thumb clutch at all...its completely contrary to how your body works, as you have already found out. When releasing the clutch, you need your strength, and therefore fine motor control, at the outer end of the release....when your thumb is greatly extended, altering your grip on the bar and at the weakest point of your thumb's range of motion. Its a recipe for error, as you've found. Using your thumb for the brake, however, uses the natural strength and ability you have in that digit. The brake requires light pressure at the beginning of travel, and increasingly greater strength and sensitivity for modulation and control as you increase braking force. It works very well, and naturally. Think about it. As for room on the handlebar, if you really need it to fit brackets and levers, I'd suggest you consider a custom switch housing that might be more compact than the Honda OEM, and give you more working room.
XX brake parts are frequently available used, and I'm sure folks here would be glad to try to help as well if you decided to continue on that path. I'm simply suggesting alternatives that might be more easily accomplished. If your heart is set on the linked system....you'll find a way to do it...it just might take longer.
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Welcome aboard, and thanks for considering our resources to address your needs.
I find this interesting for a variety of reasons, one of which is that I was considering this concept just a few days ago, and had ruled out using both traditional clutch and brake off the throttle hand.
Your project certainly seems feasible, but just seems like too much work. Have you considered the use of a thumb brake on the throttle side instead of the traditional lever? That way you'd have your fingers on the clutch, thumb on the brake, and wrist on the throttle. Busy, but it would seem more manageable than trying to run both clutch and brake from traditional levers.
The proportioning valves changed in '99 when the amount of rear bias was decreased, but I'm not aware of any publication of the actual bias. Perhaps in an older road test or press release, but I don't recall ever seeing that information.
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My E150 without rear seats weighs 5400 lbs according to the scales at the land fill.
(Just to keep the thread going
)Here's one I found funny. We don't recycle styrofoam locally...it has to go to the landfill. So I finally am swimming it the stuff one day, load as much as I can in the van, and head out. It was packed to the gills with boxes and garbage bags crammed full of styrofoam...I even had the passenger seat filled. It looked like I had 4 tons of shit in there. They gave some pretty weird looks when I pulled out of there 200 pounds lighter.
Oh, but I used an air wrench to put the wheels on....back on topic!
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They should be the same pegs if they are stock, same part # according to Ron Ayers, maybe it was because your 97 ones are worn as I noticed looking at the pics in some of the threads that the "ribs" on the pegs are quite high but on my 98 they are nearly flush with the bottom part of the rubber foot :icon_think:
Pegs on the carbed (97,98) and injected (99 and up) are different. Carbed model rubber inserts are higher and have a different pattern.
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Does it stay running after spraying the starting fluid?
And are you using the choke, etc, etc.
We need lots more information.
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Because its a twin hammer design, it should do the job. I use an IR 231 that has a torque rating of somewhere around 500 ft/lbs, depending upon where you get the data. The composite ones that folks like Chris use put out just twice that power. The one from Northern is not that far behind my IR. At worst, you might have to let it bounce a couple of times on a truck wheel to get started. Generally, on my car, I have a hard time letting off the trigger before the nut is off the stud. On the van, it usually takes between one and two seconds to pull a lug nut. On some of the suspension work I've done, the wrench didn't have enough power. It won't take the axle bolts off my car, and they are supposed to be torqued to about 260 ft/lbs. I generally use a breaker bar and a four foot pipe, braced on my shoulder, and lift with my legs to get those bolts off.
Hope that description is useful. As I said, I think it would be fine to start with, and would be a good backup when the time comes, rather than just being a waste of money.
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I just assumed you meant an air wrench when you talked about taking off wheels.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...05447_200305447
Here's a viable alternative. Its pretty decent, and would certainly serve as a good spare once you purchase a higher quality one. But it sounds as though they are looking locally, in which case who knows what they'd be getting. How about an alternative, such as a good set of 1/2 inch drive impact sockets? A decent full set will run $50-$70, and you are certainly gonna need them....they don't come with the gun, and I strongly suggest you don't use standard sockets with an impact weap....er.....wrench.
They might also consider a nice 3/8 or 1/4 inch air ratchet is a very handy device for close quarters work on cars and motorcycles. Or for tightening bolts when building decks...
Recommendations for Brands/Vendors to supply New Chain and Front (18t) and Rear (45t) Sprockets?
in The Garage
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White Buffalo Racing consistantly has good prices on DID chain and either JT or Sunstar sprockets. (Sunstar is OEM manufacturer for Honda, btw) Just be sure to ask what the shipping is. Chains are heavy, and you're a ways away from California.
"The rear sprocket is in excellent condition, unknown when the front looks like, but I'm told they all should be replaced at the same time."
I guess you'd have to define "should."
For instance, your chain should have been changed before the links started kinking.
We should change all the sprockets and chain every 10,000 miles, just to be safe.
We should change clutch plates and disks every 25,000 miles, just to be safe.
I could go on. And will.
The argument that all sprockets should be changed with the chain (the entire system) is valid in that one component does indeed affect the other, and any wear that a component such as the chain has will impact on the sprockets. If you renew the chain, and not the sprockets, the wear that is already on the sprockets will prematurely wear the chain, and you'll have to replace it sooner than if you did replace the entire system.
This is true.....but. It really depends on the amount of rear sprocket wear. The rear sprocket gets 1/3 the wear of the front sprocket simply by virtue of going around three times slower. Also, the accelerative loads on the rear sprocket (both positive and negative) are transferred over a greater area of surface, and therefore not as damaging.
You should always examine your sprocket for signs of wear before making the decision to retain or renew. Typically, an XX rear sprocket lasts for 2 to 3 chains, and a chain lasts 15-17 thousand miles. No one can predict the environment your chain runs in, or the level of maintainance you use, so YMMV.
Purely guesswork...if the chain wears out 10% faster because of a damaged rear sprocket that you cheaped out on and didn't replace because it cost $50 and an extra hour's labor....doesn't that come to about $15 negative on a $130 chain?
Your call. Each side of the argument wears validity.