rockmeupto125
-
Posts
11,175 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
41
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by rockmeupto125
-
-
Can't remember. It was at least a year ago, cuz I actually took pictures to make an instructional, and never got around to it....but was wearing _warm_ clothing in those pics.
-
That's what I did. I just called and told them I already had the spring/roller kit, loved it, and would it be possiblt to get the Star separately.
-
Look up factorymarc on Ebay. Might be some connection there, y'think? Should be about $180.
-
It doesn't do anything inside the transmission, so it won't affect how the dogs engage. What it does effect is the speed and surety of the shifting mechanism.
The kit consists of three essential parts.
1. A stiffer spring. This puts more push on the shift shaft to get into the next gear.
2. A roller spring guide. This allows the stiffer spring to float instead of just binding up on the stock bushing because there's now too much pressure.
3. A reshaped detent wheel. The more aggressive ramping of the detent wheel combines with the stiff spring to bring the transmission into the next gear more forcefully.
Bottom line is that you need more pressure to shift...until about halfway through the lever throw. After that, the spring and detent virtually yank the thing into the next gear. That soft little flip that a standard XX will shift with is gone.
I installed the components because the soft touch was resulting in the occasional missed shift for me. I was pleased enough with the improvement from installing the spring and roller that I went out on a limb and tried the upgraded detent wheel as well. I like it....I very seldom miss a shift. But as I said, spring pressure is probably 1.5 times stock...the only real-world negative, other than the wallet being lighter by a couple of horsepower.
-
rockmeupto125: Which kit do you have?
I wouldn't have commented so broadly if I didn't have all of it. I just didn't buy it in a single kit, but piecemeal. Sum total of what I have would be the Star kit.
I believe White Brothers just market the FactoryPro kit, Josh.
-
Only your pocketbook can make that decision.
The XX shifts fine without either addition.
It just shifts better with them.
If you want to save some bucks and get a smoother shift, get the less expensive kit.
If you want to shift faster and have more positive engagement, get the whole shebang.
They work well, are easy to install, and removable if you tire of it.
I like mine. I will remark that after a day of constantly rowing through the gears in places like Deals Gap, my foot is pretty sore pushing against that stiffer spring.
-
Which shift kit...as in...what's in it?
-
After all the time I took yesterday to post a reply...its not here today. :icon_wall:
Oh, well, here's the short version.
You either didn't charge the new battery correctly, your bike has a current leak, or the battery was bad.
Its seldom that new batteries are bad, although it happens.
When you started your bike with jumper cables, your battery was already flat. Once you took the jumper cables off you were powering your headlight, taillight, and ignition ciruits on a dead battery and the alternator running at an idle.
Instead of sacrificing the lights and giving as much current as needed to the ignition circuit, the bike isn't that smart, so it just gave shite current to everything. That doesn't hurt a bulb filament, but it sure is hell on a spark plug.
No guarantees, but I suggest you once again properly charge the battery, check your bike for that current leak, and replace the fouled spark plugs.
-
I believe you'll find that feeling is gone. But let us know.
-
I may try a 16T damped one when I put my next set on to see how they feel
Just let us know where you pick that up, okay?
-
You've purchased aftermarket steel sprockets from White Buffalo. These are cheaper than Honda OEM and the front does not have the rubber dampener that the stock one does. Many people use sprockets such as these....myself included, and have no concerns about the lack of a dampener. The greatest impact, as far as I'm concerned, is more chain noise, and less cost. Because these sprockets may fit several different motorcycles, there's parts that may not be needed on ours...such the threaded holes. No big deal.
While you have the sprocket cover off, be sure to remove and clean the clutch rod.
-
Two issues.
1....your average shop isn't going to have the equipment to do it.
2....there's not a lot of meat to shave off.
If they are bent, you can't fix them by turning them. Its the carrier that's most likely bent, not the rotor. It is possible to straighten them...sometimes.
If they are only slightly grooved, you might be able to repair them. Still, expect to pay at least $100 once you find someone to do it.
I hope you find otherwise. If you do, let us know!
-
guess I'm due to replace it, and I'd like to get some feedback on a few other things: Its time for new front and rear sprockets as well.
Coolant - still the original. Change it.
Brake fluid - still the original. Change it. You can simply pour fresh in the reservoir and work it through...you don't have to drain the system.
Clutch fluid - still the original. Change it. You can simply pour fresh in the reservoir and work it through...you don't have to drain the system.
Fork oil - still the original. Change it. There's an easy way and a hard way. Take your pick.
Wheel bearings - is there any need to add grease to or clean the wheel bearings? No. Spin the wheels off the ground. If they bind up, pry the brake pads back. If they still don't turn readily and quietly, replace them. That will also give you a chance to visually inspect each individual brake pad...they can wear at different rates. Spin your rear wheel while you have the chain off.
Air filter - still the original. Change it.
Be sure while you are changing the front sprocket, and have the sprocket cover off, that you remove the clutch pushrod from the engine case and clean it thoroughly. This can cause your clutch to hang up a bit if its dirty.
-
Its an intermittant sound of marbles in a heavy metal can. Order one up from John, they are cheap and easy to change.
The right side can has an easier path for vapor, plus is higher when the sidestand is used....so that vapor from the right side only is normal.
-
Peter...how are you?
I stopped at the Givi display at the NYC show intending to bust balls asking them where you were and that I wasn't gonna buy anything from anybody but you.
But after I stood there for about a minute, I realized they weren't going to stop bullshitting with each other and ask if they could help me, so I left.
Great customer service and impression.
:icon_thumbsup:
-
I firmly believe that either Chris or Forrest's bike will top 2 tons under the right circumstance...that being good weather, sea-level altitude, and the place to get a couple runs in to sort out the aerodynamics. And both of those bikes are fully streetable drive-across-north-america-if-you-damn-please bikes.
Bling, you're entitled to your opinion, but it flys in the face of reality. Then again, since when did the Irish begin to recognize reality?
I've followed this issue since before V&M produced that bike, and the hopes of hitting 200mph with some basic mods was one of the reasons I chose to purchase the XX nearly 8 years ago after a year of research. There was never anything definitive...just a bunch of sourceless gobbledygook and hints by V&M. You sure can't find it in any record books. Maybe they got a one way run of 199.6 and felt justified in rounding up....nobody here knows. Maybe the dyno was bum and they were pushing 205hp, and did slip into the 200's. But 180hp, 200mph, and CBR1100XX don't all fit in the same sentence.
BTW...if you haven't ridden one, do so if you get the opportunity. That will put a smile on your face for a couple days...or at least it did for me.
-
I don't recall ever seeing authentication of the supposed V&M claim. There's been some controversy over the issue. Supposedly they were building the bike for 205, but as I said, I've never seen authentication. Is there a current website?
I recall them getting very close with a highly modified XX that was above and beyond what the 50 V&M Blackbirds were. The XX is pretty slippery aerodynamically with the right rider. Any trials that the folks here have done were certainly quite a ways above sea level, or not in optimal conditions. Perhaps Chris or Forrest's bikes would be much more productive if they found the best place to do that sort of thing.
Anybody have Jack Valentine's number? That should clear things up.
-
It says they are Yoshimura bars right on the page.
Duh. :icon_doh:
Thanks!
-
No clue on the handlebars with the brace, they would appear to be a standard generic bar with an aftermarket brace. The top bridge is made by nproject, a Japanese business, and goes for a bit over $300 American.
-
-
Looking forward to seeing that with silver on black, Mack.
-
-
-
fuel filter
in The Garage
Posted
I haven't changed one yet.
Methinks that some of our folks who work in autoparts should be able to find a plain old ordinary in-tank fuel injection filter that doesn't cost 2/3rds of a C-note.
Anybody?