rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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My truck has a dent in the roof.
Woo-hoo.................can't wait for the first good freeze!
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The other day I was riding in 2nd at 9k+ on the tach & held it there for a minute (or 2
) in traffic & started to notice a jerk/yanking affect going on- anyone else try this & have the same effect ? Is this normal ?
My chain is properly adjusted, & my sprocket's are newish. Any ideas why this is ?
Oh also I have a manual radiator fan that I forgot to turn-on the other day in traffic & when I glanced down, it was flashing & indicated 258* degrees (hot-hot-hot), the indicator flashes or blinks at 250* degrees incase anyone didnt know (BTW this did not happen on the same day just thought I would share how hot she got.).
Are you sure its just second gear? As a test, maybe you could try first gear at 10 grand for a couple of minutes and see if you get the same jerking sensation.
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Joe what are you talking about when you say breakaway bolts?
I did a write up that is on "the other forum" that shows how to disassmble the ignition lock. There weren't any breakaway bolts at all.
Worst part was the lock tite Honda used, everything else was easy.
Cripes, Forrest, I think you're right.
So what breakaway bolt was I thinking of?
(breakaway bolt....once you reach the predetermined torque, the head rips off the bolt, leaving a lug behind to maintain the fastening pressure. They're the hell to take out...often having an allen female head cast through the broken off part)
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There's more metal, so in theory, it would be stronger.
I checked a few sites, and the tensile strength didn't seem to be anything appreciably better.
I suspect you'd get more variance from your lubing schedule than the upgrade itself....if you'd want to call it an upgrade.
If someone really needs more strength in a chain, they'll go to a 630.
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No "issues."
Weaker points include the regulator and charging system. Many people adapt an R-1 regulator simply due to the cost...about $50 versus $100+ for the Honda component. Stators seem best bought from Honda, but you can get the higher output unit from the later XX's for about $150. Cam chain tensioners frequently become noisy, but that's about it. Replacement is a $40 bill.
No engine concerns, no chassis concerns, no rust/failing components. Mine continue to go through tires and chains. Gas, too. Good luck.
Carburation is fine, you probably know how to work a choke. Different feel to the bikes...a carbed XX feels like it has more hit than a fuelie...its just in the power delivery.
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A good locksmith should have the blades and picks to get around the Givi key and pull it out.
If the lock needs removed, the fasteners are breakaway bolts, and will need to be ordered from Honda, but you can substitute regular bolts for temporary use.
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I've got a bad one. It sat in a tank with old fuel for at least a year. Ended up pulling the tank and swapping fuel pumps at 5am before I left for SEXXT two years ago....err....maybe three years ago.
So that pump might be salvageable if it can be disassembled. And its nothing special...it seems that there should be an aftermarket pump that would fit it.
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It sounds as though you are fine. Without a load, the transmission, and therefore the chain speed is slightly irregular, and creates the jumping and jerkiness you described. Its exacerbated with your engine at an idle. To demonstrate, bring the revs up to 2000 and apply a little bit of rear brake, and you'll see things running a bit more calmly.
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Order a DID 530ZVM with 110 or more links from White Buffalo Racing (.com). Get yourself a new front sprocket while you are at it.
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I presume you are feeling the play in the chain to make that judgement.
1. Be sure to check the chain at multiple places...it does not "stretch" evenly.
2. Note where the adjuster is and be sure that your wheel is not shifting...which would make it seem the chain is stretching.
3. The more worn the chain, the faster it wears.
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I probably should remark here that you'll be fine if you simply don't remove the short bolt that holds the slave cylinder only to the cover. Its the one directly below the hydraulic fitting, and you'll probably realize that if there was a through-bolt in that position, it would have to go through the sprocket. You would have noted this already when you removed the cover, but it bears noting for those reading this and comtemplating the same procedure on their own.
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As the others said.......you're fine.
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North American machines are/were supplied only with 17/45 gearing. From chatting with other folks, I believe that rear sprockets of either 44 or 45 were available options in some other continents...Australia was the first example I encountered.
Gearing doesn't give you more torque.....it simply changes the relationship between the road and engine speed at which that torque is delivered.
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Good observation. I've seen nothing in the manuals about correct/incorrect positioning of the rotors. If there were any reason to locate the carriers specifically relative to the hub, there would most probably be a locating tab where they mate. Congratulations on your discovery, and ride safely in your newfound synchronicity.
Did you loctite those rotors?
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What did you do that would air in the hydraulic lines while changing bars?
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If you had the bike in the shop, and they removed the upper cowl or the ram air ducts, they are liable for reinstalling them correctly....in which case it shouldn't cost you anything for them to correct their shoddy labor.
I've tried to fix this situation on numerous occasions, and usually end up pulling the cowl partly off. The ram air tubes fit over the inlets on the cowl...and they are deep enough so that it is not easy at all to slip them in place once the cowl is installed. I think the design engineers wanted them to stay in place once installed. Trying to pry them over the lip is risky at best...I have not found a good tool that gives me any confidence I won't crack the fairing. The safest method is to take the mirror off the affected side, slip the fairing forward off the locating tab of the fairing stay and use that extra half inch of clearance to locate the ram air tube correctly.
If the ram air tube is not correctly installed, there may be a bit of flex in your front cowl...enough to slightly re-aim the headlight. I wouldn't reset your headlight until the first condition is corrected. However, should you feel the need, here is a picture of the back of the headlight mounted in the cowl just as it sits on your bike.
The left knob moves the beam vertically...clockwise = up. The right knob adjusts left and right...clockwise = right. These knobs can be reached from underneath the cowl, and they are very stiff to turn...in order that they hold their position once set.
Also consider that if the fairing is misaligned, because it had to be forced into position to compress the ram air duct, that will affect how nearly all the plastic bodywork fits together, and if you disassemble it, you may find it difficult to realign and reinstall unless the ram air tube is correctly repositioned. You should also loosen all the bolts that hold the bodywork along the sides if this is the case so that the plastic can move into the correct position again. Again, this is assuming the shop removed the front cowl and incorrectly reinstalled it. If not, the displacement of the ram air tube existed before you took possession...I've never known one to come out of place once correctly installed unless you move the fairing significantly...the type of significant attributed with striking a tree, or a Buick. Its advisable to have help when you are doing this...unless you have several spare arms.
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Pretty sure that's correct.
The CBR600 regulator works as well, I'm told, if he's trying tofind a part in a junkyard.
If he's just trying to get home, get a fresh charge in the battery, pull the headlight fuse, and he should just make it.
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You're fine with the one bolt.
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I'm sure the K&N is adequate.
But I'm glad you checked here instead of just relying on your local professional.
The guy at the shop said that it is good. -
Genmars is basically a cover for the empty space created by raising the bars, and a pretty cap. They do retain the rotation lock, but I can't say I've ever used, it, in umpteen thousand miles of riding with the clipons raised above the fork tubes.
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The easiest way I have found is to take out the bolts that hold it in place, while leaving the slave cylinder attaced to the cover.
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no one sees you as being online
That's my middle name...."no one."
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Philip........Water Wetter works. But if you're not having any overheating issues now, its a waste of time. Don't be messing with your cooling system a couple weeks before you take off for a cross country trip.
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Are you sure its from the front? Did you raise the front and rotate the wheel? Oftentimes as the chain wears there will be a cyclical audio complaint from that area.
If you think its the front, use a thin flat-bladed screwdriver to gently pry the pads back from the rotors and see if the noise goes away, keeping in mind that your brakes will then not work for a couple squeezes of the lever......
Testing
in The Garage
Posted
I don't get it.