rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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I can't remember the clearances, and don't have a manual in front of me, but I fell pretty sure that like any other engine, this has a valve spec that is a range of values, rather than a finite one + or -. Such as .006 - .009 rather than .006 plus or minus. So a valve can be on the loose side of spec, or the tight side of spec.
Myself, I wouldn't fool with a valve that was within spec unless it was .001-.002 away from the tight side. Valves get tighter when they wear, so those are the ones to be concerned with. Valves on the looser side won't be anywhere near critical for some time.
Hope that helps.
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I tested your login with the password you sent me. It works just fine, and I sent Thruxx a PM from Thrux.
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So who ordered the wrong part for your bike?
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As far as I know, the in-tank filter is nothing more than coiled wire designed to trap chunks of debris before they hit the fuel pump. I can't imagine it filtering anything smaller than a couple millimeters at best.
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Tires
in The Garage
Depends on shipping. Some places have contract shipping with UPS or Fedex and can really save money there. Other's think that shipping is simply an excuse to drag another $20 out of the customer to cover the exorbitant costs of actually preparing an item to ship.
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Explain, please.
Could you still not log in after I reset your password in response to your last request?
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THRUXTON
Your password is reset to the name used for your log in email address, minus the "t."
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Be DAMN sure you have the hoses on the right way. I wish I had a buck for every time somebody said they were on right, only to find they were on WRONG.
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Thanks, I forgot about EK. I'm sure there's a few others out there I missed. What model/part number is yours?
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Rating a chain based on engine size, which so many of the manufacturers do, is decidedly a disservice to those who might be a bit more technically minded.
Its comparable to a salesman assessing what motorcycle you need when you walk into the showroom based on your age. He's probably often correct, but occasionally not.
Obviously, the chain rated for the greatest displacement can be expected to last the longest, whether you have a 14 or a CB350. And when you have a grand old hyperbike like the XX, or a busa, ZZR, or whatever, you're already near the upper end anyway. But there are many options available that will do the job suitably. Do you use grade 8 bolts in all your applications? Umm...no. So why pay for what you don't need?
Chains should be rated for tensile strength, not engine displacement. Hell, using that formula, Northman needs a stronger chain than elixxir, because he has more displacement. But people look at that engine displacement thing, and take it as gospel. I suppose if they do, it only comments on their knowledge level....but it still gripes me.
Okay, I'm done. Go call White Buffalo, tell them we sent you, and buy a bunch of stuff.
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If you need that shipped to you, I'm sure somebody here can help out. Smearing some old grease on it might lower its value somewhat for customs sake. (used parts, y'know....)
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The XX rear sprocket fits a couple other bikes.
Give White Buffalo a call, they should be able to hook you up.
The DID chain happens to be gold. I think most folks here buy it because it has a history of good performance. There are other manufacturers that make high-end chains....RK and Tsubaki come to mind....we just seem to be sold on the DID because we know how it works.
Motion Pro and DID make chain riveters. White Buffalo has them also. Cut your chain off with a cutting tool rather than stressing the riveter with that task.
You'll need a new front sprocket as well unless you've just recently changed yours. They are not that expensive. 16, 17, or 18 tooth all can use the 110 link chain. Of course, if you are dropping a tooth in the rear, that negates that. Remember, one tooth on the front is the same as three on the rear.
Why do you need a fuel regulator?
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TAPSPORT......
Your password has been reset.
It is the last four digits of your emergency contact telephone number.
Reply to this if it still doesn't work.
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It doesn't look bad. Perhaps the left had a little more old oil innit when it was changed?
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Fast Eddy.....I've reset your password. Try it again.
Your new password is the first 5 characters of the email address you used to register.
Please reset it once you've been able to log on.
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I'm still waiting for someone to show me that the XX runs hot.
The temperature gauge rises when you sit and idle, its true. A higher pressure cap isn't going to fix that issue.
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What kind of mileage do you call "not very good?"
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Jim.........
Your account was locked for some reason. I reset your password. Login and change it. If you can't, let me know.
Your new password is your street address number followed by the street number backwards....without spaces.
If you lived at 51760 29th Street, the password would be 5176092
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Sounds like you are using way to low a resolution on your screen. Try resetting it to a higher value briefly just to test.
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You folks in Europe seem to get the new tires sooner than we do, so I'll be watching for your evaluation.
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That's correct. I'm looking for an idea of how they work.
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Has anyone had an opportunity to try these tires with hard compound centers and sticky sides? Or barring that, seen or read a long-term evaluation of them?
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I do notice some more chain noise with the undamped sprocket - sort of sounds like a hissing noise under power -
...............but I'm guessing the perceived increase stems from the fact that I've been riding a ninja 500 around for the last couple weeks. Whatever the cause it's been fun to be back on the bird.
That's a good discription of the noise.
A trashed chain and sprockets can pull several horsepower. It probably is faster.
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Anybody have any recommendations on wave rotors available for the 2001+ Bird ?
What is out there that is plug-n-play ?
I recommend you wave at them if you see any.
Then put $500 into your retirement account.
Anyone try a Brake! LED module?
in The Garage
Posted
Or you could check the UFO lights from hightechspeed.com