rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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Yes, it was a real blast yanking that fender out.
Wish we still had that bike "in the fold." It was plain simple gorgeous.
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Any machine work has an acceptable range....this would be no different.
The spec sheet is usually in the bag with the master link and grease.
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I don't know what brand of chain that is, although its easy to assume its a DID.
You should use the spec sheet that came with the chain as far as how much to compress/flare the rivet link. The DID chain supplied with the XX originally is not the same chain you buy aftermarket, and therefore the specs in the service manual will not apply. They may be the similar (after all, how many different ways can you make the same size link chain), but I can tell you that the masterlinks of the FACTORY DID chain and the AFTERMARKET DID chain have different sized link posts, and its reasonable to assume they may not meet the same spec for flaring.
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I can only tell you that if that were mine, I'd put the tool back on and flare it more.
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Get out your wire brush and clean some contacts.
Don't worry too much about the HID...it draws less current than the standard bulb. Just don't reach up in there to unplug it while its on.....
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Thanks.
One of those things I'd have to see to believe. I'd expect relatively similar curves......after all, its the same engine. But virtually identical curves moved up the graph 20 horsepower makes me kinda skeptical.
Drop a set off to someone here in the colonies for evaluation and if it works, you'll have the greatest advertising you can imagine.
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Where's the Blackbird test you referred to? I didn't crawl the whole site, but couldn't readily find it.
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Last week I ordered a stock rear sprocket from a Honda dealer. They sent me a 44T.
Was it a Honda part?
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Correct.
Stock chain is 110 links. Stock front is 17, rear is 45. (in North America, anyway)
A chain in good condition of 110 links will fit a 16/45, 17/45, or 18/45 combination.
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Of course you can. 12 volts is 12 volts. The only difference that may present an issue in this instance is the positioning of the posts.
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Yes, its a fit. Don't expect it to go for that price.
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That problem is completely on your end....sorry. If your browser clears its cache frequently, or the cache is small, that could be one reason for it. Also, if you are using software to disguise your browsing, that may be the fault. Just as an experiement, try another browser for a bit.
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Just Wondered if there is a test area?
To test what?
This area is as good as any.
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Dogman, there are many riders in the Chicago area who I'm sure would let you sit on their bike and look it over. Its worth the investment of time if you're thinking of buying a bike of a type you've never had contact with, especially at long distance.
Hang up a note in the PUB explaining your situation, I'm sure you'll get several responses/offers.
One more thing. Don't plan on changing anything about the bike. Ride it for at least 1000 miles.....then you'll have the experience and time invested to make an intelligent decision about what you need to make it a better bike for yourself.
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Perhaps if folks knew where you were, you might find one to sit on...eh?
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My question is how did this happen? It looks like something tore this rubber diaphram. Did the full pump nozzle do this?
Now THAT would be a trick.
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This is awesome....Thanks, Joe, for volunteering to write up a tutorial on this. It will be a welcome addition to the "Important Threads" section.
Great!
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If this is occuring as you sit idling in traffic, especially if you've been travelling slowly for a while, its probably "normal."
If this is so, bring your revs up to 2000 when this happens and my guess is that it will stop.
But you need to check your charging system and battery just to be on the safe side. If your battery is more than a couple years old, it may not have the immediate reserve necessary...and that's okay, as long as you're aware of it.
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Tom, how about a porta-power? If you think that might help, I'm coming your way later today, and could drop mine off.
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My thoughts?
I have HID low and high. And that's what I think.
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Did you do a dyno pull before you tore it apart?
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So Joe how hard do you think it would be to put some mounting points in a 00 FI Top cowl or is it not worth the mucking around with :icon_think:
So are you saying that the cowls are the same and they just take up the space for the different tailight with a rubber strip?
What would be entailed in putting a later model reg on, is it just that the reg has wiring +a plug rather than the plug being in the RR, I have seen the write up on the R1 RR and it looks interesting although I don't know what Yamaha charge for a R1 RR here in Aus and whether it would be easier to just use the later Honda RR if they are plug and play if they are rated higher than the carb ones :icon_think: If I changed the stator and RR to later models would that mean that one would plug into the other with no problems? - that seems the case from looking at the wiring diagrams :icon_think:
a. Probably not too hard. Some of the plastic patch compounds with activator cure to the consistancy they you can drill and tap them, or cast them with the bolts in place under a thin clear sealing plastic film like Saran Wrap, then you can just pull out the bolts. I imagine it would take a couple of hours.
b. Yes, that's what I'm trying to say.
c. 4 wires need to be cut and spliced, or in some way put together. The stator and RR do not plug into each other. They both connect to the wiring harness.
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A) Does the 00 FI top cowl fit onto a carb bike without much modification,
Same for the rear cowl - is it just a matter of replacing the tailight and cowl or does the battery tray/inner fender need to be changed as well, C) Can the bigger late model stator be swapped into the earlier bikes ( mines fine ATM but you never know).
A)The upper cowls interchange with their basic fitment. The carbed cowls have the mounting points to secure the ducting that sends air over the oil and water radiators. The injected bikes don't need these because the ramair runners between the cowl and the airbox are stuck in place, and can't fall out, even without fasteners.
B)All rear cowls interchange. As far as I am aware, the rear taillight interchanges as well. The later model rear cowls are supposed to have a rubber sealing strip around the taillight cut. They look different, but really are the same. The inner fenders will interchange, but are different because there are more electrics in there with the fuel injection, and the attachment points for them and the FI ECU were reworked.
C)Yes, but you'll need to change the plug, and I'd suggest the later model regulator, or a similar substitute such as that from an R1.
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Just a quicky but can someone tell me whether the 97-98 carb bikes had the pair system as I did the plugs on my 98 a few days ago and their is nothing there except what seems to be the castings into the Cam cover whick has no holes or reeds in it and nothing on top either and from what I can gather from the manual only the 97-98 Cal bikes had Pair - is this true
You might have gotten something different Down Under....probably not the same emissions specs that we have.
Look at my master link!
in The Garage
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That really doesn't sound right. Flaring the pins shouldn't push the sideplate onto the link.
Think of an axe head on its handle. You put the axe head over the shaved end of the handle, then you drive the wedge(s) into the end of the handle. That locks the axe head in place....it doesn't force the axe head further down on the handle. Its not exactly the same mechanism, but its the same concept. Expanding the pin on your chain link should not be moving the link...it should only hold it tighter and prevent it from coming off.
The sideplate is supposed to be pressed on with a tool because it is intended to be tight enough just like that. Staking the pins is insurance that the continued motion of the chain doesn't work the link free. Probably any flaring would be adequate to the task, but the idea is that with a slight flare like yours, the angle that the pin metal makes in relationship to the sideplate is minimal, and the sideplate would theoretically take much less power to work its way slowly up that shallow angle, whereas a "properly" staked pin has a near 90 degree angle which any forces acting to remove the sideplate would have to overcome...and it would be easier to actually break the pin. The folks making these chains are smarter than me and have more experience with how they work, so I'm inclined to take there suggestions on how to install them.
Hope this makes some sense....I'm only on my first pot of coffee this morning.