rockmeupto125
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Posts posted by rockmeupto125
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I also always remove the calipers and remove all deposits on them and the pistons. It is no benefit to just throw in pads when you get a better and more lasting function by doing it correctly.
Why don't you guys remove the pistons, clean and inspect both them and the calipers? That way you can be sure everything is done right. Hell, the calipers should probably be magnafluxed too..they're under a lot of stress. And don't forget new hoses. Renew the copper washers, too...you know the old ones never seal correctly.
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Tom...use a 1 and 1/16th inch socket. They'll have that.
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Don't you have to have the revs above 5000 for this to work?
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Not if you read the forum from beginning to end every day like I do!
Section 5 gives you the directions for jumpering, 5-10 starts the code lists.
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<sigh>
Seat off, short the service connector at the rear of the bike with a jumper. Its a small flat connector with three square holes in a row...jumper the outer two. Then turn the ignition on, and watch the light...it should blink 1.3 seconds on to indicate 10, .5 seconds on for each single digit.
Example....one 1.3 second blinks followed by four .5 second blinks = 14....#3 injector. Once it blinks out a number, it will begin on the next one until all are displayed.
After that you have to download the manual to see what the code is.
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Its not plugs, and its not air filter. It sounds like there is a low fuel volume or pressure condition.
I'd read the FI light first...its there for a reason. The stumble, miss, and increased rpm may all be to an intermittant short/disconnection in the fuel pump electrics or any of a myriad of others. First step, get the codes off the ECU. The gauges ain't jumpin' around, are they? Low voltage does wonders....
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no great force. Be careful of bending the rotors.
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It might well be a problem with the left control switch where hi-lo is. That switch seems to have a tendency (not a probability) to develop some electrical fatigue with age. But there are so many possibilities that you really can't be sure. I'd start with checking your grounds, fuses, and for pinched parts of wiring harness.
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Congratulations on the new bird.
I know nothing more than what you've stated, so don't consider anything I say to be condescending.
There are many ways to raise the bars, and lower the pegs. Don't.
You need to put at least 1000 miles on this bike just to get used to it before you start changing things.
It doesn't sound as though you are used to a sportbike. It takes some getting used to, but is quite comfortable once the muscles become developed.
So get out of town and get to riding. Reposition your hands and legs frequently. Unless you are taking a moment to stretch or relax, do NOT put weight on your wrists and hands. The bars are not an armrest...they are for controlling the motorcycle. Your elbows should be bent, and your hands lightly controlling the motorcycle. Leaning on them will lesson your control, and tire you quickly.
Once you've put 1000 miles on like that, you'll either have toned up the muscles necessary to be comfortable, or have isolated exactly where and what the problem is. We have a lot of tall guys here....the bike works well for them. But get acclimated to the bike first...before you start trying to improve it.
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What's a clutch bar? Do you mean the handlebar lever?
You'll get a little clutch noise if the idle is too low, or when its really hot out and the oil is a bit thinner. When at an idle in neutral, there's essentially nothing to slip, so I'm at a loss to imagine your noise.
Does it go away with the clutch in?
And....does it make a sort of tinkling sound? If so, it may be time for a CCT....the sound from that is referred right out from under the fairing in that area.
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Worst case-percentage of probability (that I just made up)
Tank is rusted through-10%
Petcock is plugged with gunk-20%
Tank has interior rust-30%
Carbs are gummed up-75%
Seat is gnawed to shit-50%
Small furry animal nests throughout-65%
Needs plugs or wires-5%
Battery is trashed-100%
Tires hold air-50%
Tires need replaced-100%
Brake hydraulics need freshening-80%
Brakes are locked-20%
It'll take a lot of work-25%
Its a Honda!
There's no reason for mechanical or electrical to break down unless wires have been chewed. Biggest concern is the fuel system.
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Its way more work than you would ever consider...unless the only thing in your world was an XX with a wrecked rear end, a good rear end from an X11, a mig welder, and the rest of your life.
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If you're doing this via the insurance, go over the bike with a fine tooth comb, and don't forget to get a new helmet and gear out of it if they were damaged. If you're going to take an insurance hit, you might as well have it made all perfect....they won't do you any favors.
Keep in mind that in a right side impact, the lower fairing mount that is an extension of the oilpan is often broken off. If you can push in the lower fairing bolt, then its been broken. The estimate should then include the cost of the oilpan, bracket, and replacement. Also, if your front cowl is smacked, check for broken tabs on the headlight and instrument cluster, both of which warrant replacement.
But never, never throw anything away unless its pulverized. Somebody will need it. (like me....
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The alternator cover is on the left side of the engine. If all the damage is on the right, that's not needed. The large roundish cover that your right foot sits by is the clutch cover.
The mirror can be disassembled and the parts replaced. Typically one would need the mirror cover (painted plastic piece) and the mirror stay (folding arm). But if yours is destroyed, then yes, you need the whole assembly.
64310 and 64591 are the dash plastics that cover the space between the fairing and the bike.
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Spoke to John at Jaws earlier and truthfully he told me the ones he's got are crap ! Any ideas?
That sounds like John.
What these guys said. I know of no aftermarket supplier that has anything colored that has much strength to it......but an exception might be a company called Tasty Bits or something like that....don't know anything about them, but some folks here I believe have used them.
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Trying to explain what I was looking for in hopes the sales guy, Jay, would have a recommendation, when he interrupted me to ask "what is it that you need?"
So I requested a specific bit of information, after which he handed me off to another sales clerk. She was polite, but didn't know her product, so I felt better not doing business with them. YMMV.
My money goes elsewhere.
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Ludov.
Portugal
That's gonna take a lot of gas to get to NeXXT, Griff!
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Ludov...
You should replace your chain when it is worn out. The marks on your swingarm are only a guide, and only a poor substitute for a good mechanic.
The following is thieved from "Dan's Motorcycle." Its old advice, but chains are old technology.
"You can tell if the chain is worn by pushing up on the chain in the middle (between the sprockets) with one hand, while pulling on the chain at the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain out from the sprocket much at all, say 1/4" or more, the chain is worn out. Another way is to measure the total length of the chain, when new, and replace it when it has lengthened by 2 1/2 %. You will also find that a worn chain is hard to adjust because some spots will be tight and others loose."
Put the bike on the centerstand. Turn the rear wheel....are there crunching or tinkling noises? Is the effort to turn the wheel inconsistant? Does the chain jerk or snap, or does it run smooth and quietly? At the very back of the chain, as Dan describes above, pull the chain away from the sprocket. If you can pull the chain halfway off the teeth, the chain needs to be replaced. If it does any of the above, except for smooth and quiet, it needs to be replaced.
There's a lot more to it, but that's a basic guide. Do not rely only on the swingarm wear indicators. And I suggest you replace the front sprocket with the chain...the rear will last much longer unless you run with a worn out chain for a long time.
Hope this helps.
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That's an acceptable price...make sure it comes with a master link, which should be a rivet type. MAWonline sells the 112 link RK530XSO on Ebay for $64 plus $16 shipping. Buying it locally for the same price means you have it in hand, don't have to rely on a shipping company to deliver it safely, and you have someone to look at when you have a problem with it.
The 530XSO chain is adequate for street use of the XX. Its rated at 9500 lbs tensile strength, which is roughly equivalent to the DID VM series chains. Most folks here use the DID ZVM2, with a comparitive strength of 10,370. I don't believe you'd notice any particular difference other than a few thousand miles less wear. And at nearly half the cost, that's a significant savings. Your priorities may vary.
White Buffalo Racing comes highly recommended by many folks, including myself. Some consideration may be given to shipping costs....chains are heavy, and cost more to ship the farther you are from White Buffalo in California.
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You'll need nearly 9 yards. Get it fibered, and you can get it colored as well if that's your thing. I would want 4 people and an hour's pour time to do that job. Power trowels are cheap to rent, easy to use, and can give you anything from a fine texture to a glossy finish without bending over, but you can cheap out and use a drag board, and pay your help more beer. Its your choice what texture you want, smoother is more slippery, texture holds dirt and is harder to clean. Make sure you have plenty of 4x4/4x8 sheets to work from, and don't forget about an apron as well. Line and level is really a good idea, so you know what way the water will drain, and you don't have puddles when there's runoff from vehicles or heavy snow. (that's a joke, boys)
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Consider alternate possibilities.
Suspension settings changed?
Too much weight on the bike?
Gripping the handlebars instead of the tank?
Poorly worn tires?
The XX isn't an inherent headshaker in the corners. But if you just have it in your head that you need a steering damper, Northman's fix is the best you'll get. Hyperpro has discontinued its mounting kit, and you would have had to adapt it to your later model XX anyway.
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my buddy has a stock 1999 and will kick my ass up and down the road
I'm sure he'd like you to believe that......
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You would think at 11,4XX post on the board you would have a more logical answer than something smartelec.
I will say that not everyone ride's the same way & may not agree with the way another person ride's/drives, but get over it.
My reply to you was spot on.
There's nothing in the mechanicals or fuel management of the bike which ties your situation directly to second gear (or any gear, for that matter). Therefore, a realistic diagnostic test would be to recreate the symptoms under a different condition (such as using a different gear). Once you have two sets of results, you can compare and begin the process of elimination.
The only mechanical explanation for your symptoms would be missing teeth or dogs from the second gear set. However, something of that magnitude would manifest itself every time you were in second gear (or whatever gear you decide you were in----"traffic" can be defined in many ways), and if not, is probably not the cause.
For the sake of the argument, lets then assume you were traveling 50mph in first gear at high rpm. Horsepower necessary to move you = 12-15, give or take. At 9000 rpm your engine is efficient and strong, capable of producing over 100 horsepower. To drive that "slowly" relative to the rpm, there's virtually no load on the motor, and minimal throttle settings would be necessary. So little throttle may be used that any miniscule change in throttle position would result in a slight accel or decel, creating a jerking, or at least a sensation of uneven power delivery. The other possible cause is again with that minimal throttle setting, the air fuel mixture is really weak, and the engine is experiencing a lean surge. Either way, the condition you describe would be present.
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Did the bike sit for a long time before you bought it? If so, you might be looking at a stuck injector.
Don't fool with this too long...washing down a cylinder with gas and diluting the oil isn't really good for it.
Sounds like you could start with a good tune-up and inspection of components before you do much else, youngster.
brake pad replacement,front and rear
in The Garage
Posted
Yeah, you're not telling me anything. I've been married. But seriously.........
Its a slippery slope when you start labelling procedures as incorrect when they accomplish the intended mission. Its important to remember there are seasoned mechanics, engineers, carport mechanics, and complete noobs here. Just because its important to someone to check their valves every 5000 miles doesn't mean they should decry those who don't, or intimate that without using their expertise, pistons and camshafts will fail in a big and dangerous way. Ideally, we'd all take our bikes to dealers with service departments whose trained technicians could fix anything on the bike within 60 minutes because of the exemplary design, the special service tools they have, and the high level of training and commitment they have to the task. The motorcycle would be returned in perfect factory spec and it would cost only a copay of $25. However, that's not the case. A good many folks here do their own wrenching not necessarily because of a burning desire to get dirty and not ride their bike, but to save a buck, and/or to protect themselves from the possibility of lackadaisical and potentially dangerous repairs and maintainance on a potentially lethal machine. A bit of humor is a good relief, but sending the wrong information, or portraying a task as too complex and difficult won't get it done, but instead get it delayed due to trepidation, perceived lack of time, or waiting for an appointment for the dealer to do it.
Lighten up, guys. The BMW forum is further over to the left.